ST185 Brake Upgrade(st205) 6-8 hours int work.

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ST185 Brake Upgrade(st205) 6-8 hours int work.

Postby Adydas » Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:10 am

Me & Boosted did a mint job susing out my car to hook up some ST205 brakes, rotors, calipers etc so ive attempted to write up what weve achived to hopefully help others, Ive used an online tutorial myself and effectifly re wrote in greater detail that work.

Parts List

10 x NS132 Wheel Studs $19 each repco.
2 x Packs Nuts and Bolts 50mm Long, Same thread dia and size as factory hub mounting. $12 per pack
2 x 5mm Spacers $80 pair.
2 x Front st205 Rotors
2 x Rear st205 Rotors
2 x Rear st205 Calipers & Brake Pads
2 x Front st205 Calipers & Brake Pads, Need to be machined down to 297mm to fit.
1 x Bottle Degreser ( Cleans rims while there off the car as well as hands and brakes. )

The main things to be aware of are fairly simple but can be overlooked, Some engeneering work will be required.

Rear Brakes (easy)

Simply unbolt the old and bolt on the new.

Remove the hose from the caliper and then remove the caliper from the frame, from here the best thing to do is take the handbrake off ( this is important as if the handbrakes on the rotor gets locked into place ). Remove the rotor, If you find its stuck on with rust etc use a bolt that fits into one of the two avalible holes, All rotors
seem to have 2 holes avalible for this use. See the below image and note the two tiny holes.


Once you have removed the old gear its time to fit the new stuff, Place the new rotor in place and then bolt the new caliper into the old ones home.

You will need to bend the metal frame / guard back to avoid rubbing as the new rotor will be thicker, You can tell very easily if its rubbing or not by simply
moving it back and forth via the wheel studs and a spanner.

Frame to bend.

Time for the fronts, These are alot harder to do and take far more work.

Subject to popular belif you dont need to remove the hub assembly from the car as you can carry out all the work with it in place.

Before you start doing the work you need to go buy the following.

10 x NS132 - (Repco part number) wheel studs, These studs mesure the same diameter and thread as factory how ever are approx 3-4mm longer (trust me this is required).

2 x 5mm thick Spacers ( see below for details / Picture ).

2 x pack 50mm long bolts and nuts that match diameter of the orignal bolts ( See image for 2 bolts & Nuts )

Go to an engeering shop with the new rotor and have them make a spacer plate that fits inside the rotor housing, and is 5mm thick.

Note the Spacer plate on the right.

You will need to remove the dust cover totaly on the front assembly as there is just no room to fit the rotor without it rubbing onto the plate, 1mm clearance if that
when all done without the plate in place. (dust cover to remove matches the one listed in image 2).

Once you have the dust cover out, hit all the old wheel studds out of the hub with a hammer, rotate the hub assembly to allow these to come out.. From Here replace the shorter old studds with the 5 x New units recently purchased from Repco. Once these are inplace, use the nuts and a washer or the rotor to screw the new studds into place by pulling them into place as the thread is tightend, There is no way you can hit them into place from behind.

With 5 new studs in place its time to split the caliper in half to begin fitting. Once your holding the back half place it on the old mounting point and bolt up using the bolts 50mm long recently purchased.


Once this has been taken care of its time for bussiness, Put the spacer plate onto the hub over the new studs, ensure the brake lines have been fitted and to do this
you will need to undo the factory hose from within the shock as the factory line isnt long enough.

Put the new rotor into place and then start to assemble the other half of the new caliper around the rotor, This is held on with 4 bolts fed in from the back (back been from the motor), Ensure there are 2 washers / rubber gromits when you fit the calipers together as these are a seal without them its brake leaky time.

The reason for the 5mm thick spacer is to move the rotor assembly away from the hub so the calipers and brakes all fit together, I have cleared this job with an Auckland based LVV certifier and had it approved will confirm when passed, You must ensure the spacer is only 5mm as if its thicker the rotor wont fit onto the boss
and there for will fail a wof / Cert.


From here its time to install the brake pads as if you were doing a standard change, and then bleed the system.

Without going into to much detail on the above, You need to remove the locking spring from the 2 bars on the brakes, from here you can push the 2 holding rods out
and this will free the pads from been able to be pulled out, its a fantastic system and highly recomened work for a future easier change.


All images are credit to and have been reused as they are fantastic photos to represent what needs doing, I dont agree with taking the hub ass off in order to do the work as highlighted it simply wasnt required and would have been a naff of a job for anyone to do
ontop of the allready hard work of fitting the brakes, this is just my attempt to tweak somone else work with some extra details as well as highlighting its not
required to remove the hub.

I highly reccomend the above website link as this is what helped get me rolling when i got stuck on (how to mount the front calipers).

End result..

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