Tutorial - Battery Relocation

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Tutorial - Battery Relocation

Postby DeeCee » Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:31 pm

Introduction:
Okay folks, much waited upon as I never seem to be able to find the time or patience to write this thing out.

I'm going to go short and sweet in my explanations but i'm sure that its all there.

Notes:

1) If you are going to move your battery, talk to your local Warrent of Fitness person / mechanic. Generally as long as you explain what you want to do and the steps you will take to achieve this safely then you will be fine.

When I went for my warrent of fitness after relocating the battery, I alerted the WOF officer of the relocation, and explained to him what I did and how I did it to ensure that he understood that I did it safely. After I noted the welding of seperate bolts to the boot floor, safe routing of wires and fusing on the cable, he said that it was done well and care was taken to do it properly.

2) Ensure that you use the appropriate wire guage and appropriate fusing. This is to ensure safety if failure in cable/battery/overall electrical system occurs.

3) follow the current to gauge chart to assess your wire requirements.
unfortunately there is no defined rule for doing this - i always say minimum 2ga wire and preferably 1ga with with at least a 150A fuse on the cable.

Image

4) take all safety precautions in relocating your battery. I take no responsibility for your actions based on my tutorial. It acts as a guide only. If you are not confident in your abilities seek professional help to relocate your battery.

Supplementary:

This information was supplied to me (sorry if i can't remember who supplied it to me, I deleted the PM on Icemag. If it was you, could you please contact me and I will acknowledge your contribution)

From the Motorsport New Zealand Regulations:

From the Motorsport New Zealand Regulations Manual:
-> Regulations -> Manual 33 -> Appendix 2 -> Schedule A.

(3) Batteries:
(a) All batteries shall be securely mounted and have the live terminal adequately covered,
(b) Batteries located in the cockpit shall;
(i) Be mounted on a flat metal base, and
(ii) Have two insulated metal clamps affixed by a minimum of 8 mm (ISO 8.8) bolts and nuts in combination with underfloor counter plates, and
(iii) For ‘wet cell’ batteries an independently attached leak-proof box vented to the vehicle exterior is required.
(iv) For a sealed “dry cell” (i.e.: may be fitted in any orientation, without any loss of fluid) may be mounted in the cockpit without a leak proof box.


Equipment Required:

- Craft Knife
- Screwdrivers
- Cable cutters
- Socket set
- Wiring: 4ga and 1ga
- Wire terminals: 4ga and 1ga
- Battery Terminals
- Distribution Block
- Large Fuse and fuse holder (in this case a 250A ANL)
- Plastic split loom
- Electrical tape
- Battery brace
- Battery box

Optional:
- 1 gauge lugs
- heat shrink
- nut and bolt (8 - 10mm thread diameter)
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Postby DeeCee » Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:31 pm

1. First of all, assess how you will run the wiring from the engine bay to the boot.
For me I had previously run 1ga from a grommet in the firewall to the rear of the vehicle. This was achieved by removing the seats and various panelling through the car to get the wire from front to back.

I removed the air box to ensure that I had enough room to shift and expose wiring where it was required.

There are 4 wires in total that have to be removed and relocated from the battery.
There are 2 wires connected to the positive battery terminal, the starter motor wire and the wire from the fuse box. There are also 2 wires connected to the negative terminal, the engine ground and the battery ground.

Image

2. Remove the battery and associated brackets and grab your knife. Start removing the electrical tape that covers the wiring on the positive wires. Try not to cut the plastic split loom as well use it later to recover wiring.

This photo shows the start of removal of electrical tape and plastic split loom and identification and separation of wiring.

Image


3. I started disassembling the fuse box. As you can see from this picture, I have exposed the wiring to the fuse box by removing the bottom cover.

Image

4. After identifying the wiring to the starter motor, I removed the electrical tape to expose the wiring and the connection point for the wiring.

Image

5. For my car, Toyota conveniently put a cover plug over the bolt that attaches the wiring to the starter motor. Grab appropriate socket and remove the bolt releasing the wire.

Image

6. Just of note, I also located the engine ground wire and removed the wire as well.

Image

7. I partially disassembled the fuse box to gain access to the fuse box wire. For me, this was just a plastic bracket that popped out.

Image

8. I removed the wire from the fuse box that attached to the battery

Image

9. I then prepared all my terminals and wiring terminations.

Image

10. Grabbing some 4ga and I pressed and soldered a lug on and attached the lugged wire to the fuse box. The wire length is kept reasonably short to ensure that the wire is able to hold the electrical capacity and it connects to the distribution block that runs 1ga to the back of the car.

Image

11. With the removal of the starter motor wire, I replaced this with 4ga as it is important that the wiring has the capacity for large amounts of current. Lugs were of similar size so I had no major problems with the upgraded wire.

Image

12. With the replacement lugged 4ga, I mounted back on to the fuse box 12V connection point.

Image

Image

13. I cut a small hole in the base of the fuse box to run my new upgraded wire through and then popped the fuse bracket back into the fuse box. Then I replaced the fuse box base and reattached the top of the fuse box.

Image

14. I re-attached the upgraded starter motor wire and put the plug back over.

Image

15. Grabbing my electrical tape, I cleaned up and replaced the split loom where it was necessary to protect various wiring. I then attached the fuse box to another point to ensure that it was secure. I also replaced the air box voila, no more battery in the engine bay. In the future I plan to build a new air box and attach the fuse box to a more secure location than it is currently positioned.

Now my wiring is ready to go into the distribution block.

Image

17. And all connected up.

Image

Note:
With many people not having access to compression fittings and distro blocks this is what you do if you are rangi :lol:

don't forget to put heatshrink on before you attach lugs to wires :up:

- 17.1 lug up the other ends of the 2 x 4ga leads from the starter motor and the fusebox
- 17.2 put a lug on the 1/0ga
- 17.3 connect altogether with a nut and bolt, something that is large and will fit nicely in the 4ga lug hole
- 17.4 cover in heatshrink/electical tape. No metal to be exposed as it is constant 12V

18. With the removal of the engine ground which was terminated at the battery, I upgraded the engine ground and attached to a point on the body of the car. I found a mounting point, sanded back to bare metal and attached the engine ground wire.

Image

19. Just as of note, the routing of the 1/0ga went through the inner guard. I first of all removed the inner guard plastic and found some nice brackets for me to attach my wire to. Thanks Toyota 

Image

20. You’ll have to use your imagination as I can’t be bothered taking off my wheel and documenting the actual wire in the brackets, but it was kinda fitted like this.

Image

21. I also routed the 1/0ga through a grommet in the body of the car. The wire is fed through into the cabin and comes out to the side of the AC unit and down the kick.

Image

22. To ensure that I protect the cable and don’t get any additional crap coming into the cabin, I carefully cut the old grommet to allow for the 1ga and replaced the grommet back into the hole with the 1/0ga fed through.

Replacing the inner guard, there is no evidence that there is wiring routed through the car and the wire is protected from debris that may fly up from the road. Nice and safe.

This step may change according to your boot and where the fuel tank is located.
For my car, the fuel tank is located underneath the boot floor and there is approximately 10 - 15mm to the top of the tank. I got Mr Kat to weld some bolts to the floor of the boot to ensure that I had solid mounting points for the battery and the future boot install.

For other cars, an alternative method may be to drill through the floor of the boot and attach the battery box to the floor of the boot. You can also use the side panels though in my car I found the metal to be rather flexible and unsuitable to mount to. Use a solid mounting plate underneath the battery to ensure that the battery remains stable at all times.

I then made up a solid bracket that attached to the welded bolts and added mounting points for the battery bracket rods.

Image

Image

23. I cut some holes into the rear of the battery box for the positive and negative wires and fed the wiring through. Grounding for the battery was located at a bolt hole on the rear factory strut brace. I sanded back and attached the ground wire and also fused the main 1/0 gauge power wire with my ANL fuse holder and a large 250A ANL fuse.

Note:
The engine starts off the battery initially and then the alternator provides constant current for the car. With the battery in the engine bay, the positive wire from the battery to the starter motor is short and can allow a large amount of current through its short lengh.

As we are increasing the distance between the battery and the starter motor, we must ensure that:
a) the cable can retain the current that is going through it
b) the fuse on the cable allows enough current through it to start the motor
c) the cable has a fuse on it to protect it

In this case, because we are relocating the battery in high powered car audio systems, it is always advisable to go a minimum of 2 guage power power, preferably 1/0 gauge. Going with a lower cable size may cause cable insulation failure to occur or a cable fault and cause a fire or accident.

The fuse should also be securely mounted and protected and should be a rating of at least 150A. This is to allow adequate car starting and allow continual current draw.


Drilling some holes into the base of the battery box, I threaded the battery bracket rods through the box and fed the positive and negative cables into the battery box. I then attached my battery terminals.

Image

24. I then mounted the battery inside the battery box and connected the terminals. I then used the brace to hold the battery in place to ensure that the battery is secured down.

Image

Image

Image

25. I then put the cover on and one battery relocation finished.
(Don’t mind the extra cable. It’s there for my future setup though I have to add some more RCA’s and more speaker wire as well as the power wiring to the front).

Image

Tutorial and all associated pictures are property of David Choong. Rights Reserved.
Last edited by DeeCee on Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby DeeCee » Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:34 pm

Posted cos I remember someone wanted it and its christmas so i feel in a giving mood

and no, I'm not going to shrink or link pics..
defeats the purpose of doing this type of tutorial.. :P

DC
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Postby bluemaumau » Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:02 pm

wicked stuff dude, get this man a db(something better hopefully cause dbs horrible) :lol:
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
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Postby Adydas » Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:32 pm

agreed well done, shame about the dam AWG mesurments, wheres the MM dammnit!!
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Postby Boosted_162 » Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:32 pm

This makes my relocation look rangi as hell :lol: :lol:

Except my cable is HEAPS bigger, but i dont have a fuse :o. Where'd you get your one from? Need to put one in.
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Postby touge rolla » Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:06 pm

The joys of the MR2, no need to do anything like this.
This puts my mates ST185 setup to shame though (but to be fair we did it in a hurry in the dark)
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Postby neo » Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:37 pm

Nice one, all your missing is split condute around the cable :)
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Postby DeeCee » Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:29 pm

Cliff: yeah - i'll do a new wire conversion chart for SQNZ soon with mm^2

Craig: bigger cable doesn't always mean better - i went for bling, so it cost on the cable side instead. Anyway, I use 70mm^2 in the SPL Lada. 4 runs = 2 positive and 2 negative for one amplifier :D

The fuse is a tsunami one. Fusion do something similar.

Cheers Neil, the Silly car is getting fully rebuilt, so the cable is actually not getting conduit wrapped, but will be encased and on display :)

Cheers to all who like it. Its been sitting on the SQNZ forum for ages, and I've slowly provided it elsewhere as I see fit to those that want it.
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Postby Ae92typeX » Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:25 pm

nice post. about time someone actually did a 'how to' write up about it!

needs to be sent to faq
Cant believe im still a member here.

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/profile.php?id=113
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Postby gleem » Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:04 am

cheers for that post, whats differences are there between using 2 small cables or a big cable?
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Postby bluemaumau » Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:06 pm

can this get FAQ'D or stickied
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
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Postby FXGTV » Sat Dec 20, 2008 9:37 pm

was this ever stickied?
1988 r31 TI Skyline.
1982 ra60 Celica (my Aussie Toyota and axle stand warrior).
ex: 1991 Corolla, 1989 fxgt-v, 1985 aw11. 1992 sw20 gt-s. 2002 glxi Lancer wagon (work hack)
next car - another a-dub please!
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:08 pm

DeeCee wrote:Note:
With many people not having access to compression fittings and distro blocks this is what you do if you are rangi

don't forget to put heatshrink on before you attach lugs to wires :up:

- 17.1 lug up the other ends of the 2 x 4ga leads from the starter motor and the fusebox
- 17.2 put a lug on the 1/0ga
- 17.3 connect altogether with a nut and bolt, something that is large and will fit nicely in the 4ga lug hole
- 17.4 cover in heatshrink/electical tape. No metal to be exposed as it is constant 12V


you can also use the likes of a kill switch to join wiring, and also makes working on the electrics easy if you need to disonect battery, just flip the switch off
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Postby soopachargen » Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:58 pm

Im just putting my battery relocation together.
I have two ANL fuses. 200A and 300A,

if i were to mount the fuse right at the battery can i then run two runs of cable... one to the front of the car, and one to an unfused distribution block that im gonna run 145 amps of amplifier off? or should i run a second fuse before the distribution block?
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Postby DeeCee » Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:21 pm

I would run a second fuse personally. Safer is better in my books
Line 1: Batt > Fuseholder > starter motor / engine fuse box
Line 2: Batt > Fuseholder > distro > amps

You can do as you have proposed, but the only line safety you have if a surge occurs are the fuses on the amps.
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Postby soopachargen » Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:24 pm

So should i run the 300 to the starter and the 200 on the amps?

Is it fine to run the wire to the starter and then loop the cable to the alt and the fuse box?
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Postby DeeCee » Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:58 pm

First of all what gauge cable are you using between batt and starter?

Taking this wiring diagram for the celica as an example of wiring (large image = 3048x2030):

Image

bottom left, we start with batt connection to alternator to the right
we also see connection to fusible link block with alternator fusible link labelled @ 100A

Alternator postive cable runs straight to fusebox, through fusible link and then to battery.
Starter runs straight to battery

You should be able to run wire to starter and then to fuse box as its all positive voltage, but I haven't done it that way before, though I see no issue with it. (don't quote me.. i'm not auto sparkie..)
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Postby soopachargen » Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:10 pm

between batt and starter im using welding cable about the same size as 0guage. i may just go with the tried and tested method rather than trying to reinvent the wheel. will talk to a sparky
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Postby DeeCee » Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:15 pm

so 50mm cable then. All good.
Easy to go by tried and tested. Use a bolt and some lugs instead of the distro block.

You can use the 300A ANL fuse on the main line up to the front, but is excessive for the amount of current draw going through the main line.

I'd use the 200A on main line and a 150A on the car audio line.
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