Chopped head unit wires - SORTED

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Chopped head unit wires - SORTED

Postby shogun » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:00 pm

Hi,

The fxgt I bought recently had this as its sound system....
Image
Image

To get the system working (I am getting a new headunit so looking to make it an ISO adapter), can i buy one of these
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-ste ... 931258.htm
Image
and then cut the 'toyota' side adapter off, splice and solder the wires from the car to allow it to accept an aftermarket head unit?

If so, there are more than 1 of some colours so how would I know which ones to connect?

Thanks in advance
Last edited by shogun on Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Lloyd » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:13 pm

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.asp

Early Toyotas are nice as far as wiring goes. Likewise with aftermarket headunit which all use the same wiring colours between manufacturers.
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Postby Lurkin » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:26 pm

Edit*

just cut off all of the loose ends/ shitter connections (NOT the plug to the headunit!) from the wiring harness on the head unit and cut off all the corresponding shitty connection in the car.

Obtain a multimeter, a aaa battery and a box of bullet terminals.

use above wiring diagram.

use the aaa battery to test the pairs of speaker wiring.

use the multimeter to locate accessory, positive etc.

Make sure you do not confuse accessory with the lighting circuit.

Find a decent piece of metal to attach the earth to, test with multimeter.

Use bullet terminals on both sides of the harness.

Done.

No need to buy additional harnesses etc.

A new headunit will also have a new harness on the headunit side with it - just use bullet terminals again.
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Postby shogun » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:38 pm

cheers for that pdf- i was searching google using the word 'diagram' instead of 'harness'

Use bullet terminals on the harness from the headunit, cut off the crap on the harness in the car, attach corresponding bullet terminals in the car.


I haven't picked up the head unit yet (bought it off trademe) but if it does come with a harness then yea I will just use terminals to connect them. I was thinking about an ISO connector in case I would need to replace/remove the head unit in future.

by the way; The head unit I bought is a boss audio 80Wx4 with 3 RCA Pre-outs. I plan on using a 5 channel amp to drive 4 speakers and a sub.

Cheers fo the help guys
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Postby shogun » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:58 pm

sorry I am new to electrical stuff. These tests are only for the car wiring end correct?

use the aaa battery to test the pairs of speaker wiring.

touch wire to either end of battery and there should be a buzzing noise or something?

use the multimeter to locate accessory, positive etc.

don't quite understand this. the +12V ignition wire is the accessory and the +12V battery wire is the positive (from the wiring diagram)? How do I test either?

Find a decent piece of metal to attach the earth to, test with multimeter.

Get ground cable, attach one side of multimeter to it and the other connector of the multimeter to the car's ground/chassis and it should give a low resistance reading?
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Postby sergei » Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:11 pm

shogun wrote:sorry I am new to electrical stuff. These tests are only for the car wiring end correct?

use the aaa battery to test the pairs of speaker wiring.

touch wire to either end of battery and there should be a buzzing noise or something?

use the multimeter to locate accessory, positive etc.

don't quite understand this. the +12V ignition wire is the accessory and the +12V battery wire is the positive (from the wiring diagram)? How do I test either?

Find a decent piece of metal to attach the earth to, test with multimeter.

Get ground cable, attach one side of multimeter to it and the other connector of the multimeter to the car's ground/chassis and it should give a low resistance reading?


The AA battery test is simple the speaker should make a "pop" noise. You can also check the polarity the speakers this way: if polarity is correct the speaker should pop out (ie not popped in). In reality the +/- on speakers does not matter as long as they are all following same pattern.

The difference between 12v Batt, 12V ACC, 12V Illumination and 12V ign is that: with the key in off position the only wire that will have 12V (11.5 or so ;)) is the Batt supply, with the ignition key in ACC position (turns on the stereo and clock) the wires that will have 12V are Batt and ACC. Ignition wire is not used normally on head units (unless you have russian car and there is no ACC position). 12V Illimunation wire will be 12V when the lights are on (park lights are sufficient for test).

For ground (aka GND, Earth, Negative), any exposed metal (ie frame where the stereo bolts on into) will do. On toyota ground is usually brown wire or white with black stripe.
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Postby shogun » Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:40 pm

Thanks - learnt a lot
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