Vaccume lines on blacktop ITBs

[TRD_ZERO]

I know this isnt the best of questions but id like abit of feedback about how many vaccume lines there are and what to hook what up to.
Ok so im having a little trouble sorting out mu vaccume lines on my blacktop turbo. i feel i dont have enough vaccume outlets for all things necessary. I count 5 places where i can get a vaccume signal.



Ill use the above pic as a reference.
On the left where the factory fuel reg sits there is one vaccume line. Between the cam cover and the injectors in the center there is one. On the right there is three of them close together.
(I hope the pic helped) Now is there anymore vaccume outlets on there somewhere that i am missing?
On the back of the throttle bodies is a little diaphram type thing looks like it controls the throttles to a degree with a vacume line. is this diaphram thing necessary?

Where do i plug the powersteering lines into?

And it seems there is a pipe comming off the isc that uses to plug into the old intake what do i do with it now just put a breather on it??
All help appreciated thanks

[jondee86]

I'll take a run at this, but I'm not a turbo guy, so better to confirm with
someone who is actually running boost. To start with, most of the ports
that saw vacuum when N/A, will see positive pressure when boosted. So...

1. FPR - you will need a rising rate regulator designed for boosted
applications. So long as the existing vacuum line is sensing manifold
pressure, you should be able to use it for boost.

2. Cam Cover Vent - you don't want to pressurise the inside of your
engine, so run the cam cover vent to a catch can or vent it into your
fresh air intake upstream of the turbo.

3. ISCV - you will need to find out if the ISCV can handle boost... I would
guess not. So you will probably have to mount a check valve to close it
off when the intake manifold is under positive pressure. Yeah, put a
filter/breather on the intake side, or hook it up to your intake ducting
upstream of the turbo.

4. Brake Servo - the brake servo line is already equiped with a check
valve, so I'd guess it would be OK.

5. Carbon Canister Purge - usually have a solenoid to make sure the
purge line only opens when you have a few revs on. Vent that into your
intake upstream of the turbo.

6. MAP Sensor - OEM needs to be replaced with a sensor rated for the
boost level you intend running e.g. 1 bar, 2 bar etc. Stock line should
be OK for sensing.

7. Power Steer - got me beat !!!

8. Throttle Opener - might still work, but it is a non-essential item, so
if it can't hack pressure, just take it off.

You will also need some lines for your boost gauge and blowoff valve,
but they are fairly self-explanatory. As I said up top, you will need to
sort these one at a time with people who know for sure.

Cheers... jondee86

[TRD_ZERO]

Thanks someone actually took the time to repond to this..........put up a question that actually involves a little work to get an answer and everyone avoilds it like the plague.

Yeah i got the feul reg line sorted, boost gauge, and low off valve i just wasnt too sure where to put the power steering lines and whatever else needs it. And dintnt wanna leave any hidden vac lines that i couldnt find.

Could the two powersteering lines just hook up to any vaccume? and why is there two of them?

[79rolla]

i think what jonney sead is pritty mutch right.. the diaphram is to stop backfier fron throttle closing too quickly apparently, non esential so rip it off, and use the vacume line for somthing els.. the powr steering will just be an idil up thing probably, will have a switch so the vacume opens a bypass vaulve to rase the idle a little bit wen usig powesteering while parked.

sorry bout the crap speeling.. im tierd az lol

[sergei]

This is for silver top, not quiet what you are after but is very similar

[jondee86]

Power steer idle-up basically takes clean air from in front of the
throttles down to a valve on the steering rack. That valve opens
when the steering hits full lock, and allows some air to enter the
common vacuum rail on the engine. It is only active at idle, or
maybe during slow speed manouvering (parking).

So I can't see any reason why you couldn't leave it hooked up.

If your car has an A/C idle-up valve, it does the same, allowing
a small amount of clean air to bypass the throttles and enter the
common vacuum rail. It only needs to be active at idle, and will
switch whenever the A/C compressor clutch engages. However,
if it is active when there is positive pressure in the intake manifold,
it will become a boost leak.

Probably possible to disable it under boost with a pressure switch,
but I'd be more inclined to plug it off and see if A/C switching at
idle causes a problem.

Cheers... jondee86