What do you use to fix rust?

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What do you use to fix rust?

Postby ollieboy » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:21 pm

Just wondering what brand of stuff people use after they have sanded out rust?
I saw this stuff at ripco today that was called metal filler or something similar. Anyone used this?

I've tried some sort of bodyfiller in the past that you had to mix up but I sucked at teh panel work and did a terrible job. :) :o
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Postby Quint » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:26 pm

Jenolite.
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Postby no_8wire » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:47 pm

you can sand out rust? I normally just attack it with grinder...then fisholine on the bare metal and 3 days later paint/ start to bog...just normal car bog...
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Postby ollieboy » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:50 pm

no_8wire wrote:you can sand out rust? I normally just attack it with grinder...then fisholine on the bare metal and 3 days later paint/ start to bog...just normal car bog...
Cool, Yeah I meant just get rust out, by whatever means. where can I pick that fish stuff from?
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Postby Caveman » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:16 pm

Shark oil is an excellent rust inhibitor

It makes your car stink like fish :oops: I have no idea where you could get it (apart from the ocean). I just have a mysterious can full of it :D

IMO the best thing to do it cut out the rust and weld new steel in. Find a mate who can use a mig welder and go hard. Then spray the damn fish everywhere once its done. You thin the fish oil and just spray it from a gun.

Prime the repaired spot and paint 8)

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Postby ollieboy » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:19 pm

Yeah I might try that then. I know a few people who are quite skilled with the mig welder.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:20 pm

Yup, fish oil/fisholene is brilliant stuff. You can buy it in an aerosol can from Repco, just blast the inside of doors and panels with it.
Jenolite is meant to be a really good rust killer too.
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Postby Rick » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:36 pm

The best and only real method of stoping rust is to remove it completely by cutting and welding in a new pannel but if that is not possible like in alot of cases then I would recommend Por 15, great stuff.

http://www.por15.com/
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Postby no_8wire » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:48 pm

Most hardware shops will have fisholine/ fish oil. Stinks for up to a week but at least it kills the rust! :D
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Postby ollieboy » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:51 pm

Its only in a race car so I don't mind if it smells really. The car already stinks of something bad.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:56 pm

You can get deodorised stuff, which isnt too bad
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Postby sergei » Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:02 am

Rick wrote:The best and only real method of stoping rust is to remove it completely by cutting and welding in a new pannel but if that is not possible like in alot of cases then I would recommend Por 15, great stuff.

http://www.por15.com/



Where can you get that stuff?
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Postby Caveman » Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:26 am

Rick wrote:The best and only real method of stoping rust is to remove it completely by cutting and welding in a new pannel but if that is not possible like in alot of cases then I would recommend Por 15, great stuff.

http://www.por15.com/

Or just use phosphoric acid if your cheap :D

Basically the acid turns the rust into iron phosphate which... well isnt rust anymore. You must neutralize the acid when you are finished though.

Phosphoric acid does a real good job of f*cking paint so make sure it doesnt run.
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Postby celica_tommo » Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:27 am

sergei wrote:
Rick wrote:The best and only real method of stoping rust is to remove it completely by cutting and welding in a new pannel but if that is not possible like in alot of cases then I would recommend Por 15, great stuff.

http://www.por15.com/



Where can you get that stuff?


got mine from colour works in penrose... think it was $15 for a small tin
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Postby Bling » Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:31 am

Rick wrote:The best and only real method of stoping rust is to remove it completely by cutting and welding in a new pannel but if that is not possible like in alot of cases then I would recommend Por 15, great stuff.

http://www.por15.com/


www.por15.co.nz is a better link i found

looking at ordering a rust hole pack or super starter pack, anyone else used POR15?
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Thu Apr 27, 2006 2:46 pm

As said above, cut out and replace is the best way to go but if that isnt and option or like i have had on the Capri rebuild where it is surface type rust then after a good sanding I have used a rust convertor, comes in a white bottle with green labeling, cant remember the name off the top of my head sorry :oops: paint on, let dry and end result is a black finsh where it has reacted that can be sanded then primed, works very well 8)

one thing to noe with this and it may be the same for other products like this, is that the left over product CAN NOT be put back in the container when finished as it sets all the other stuff off, so always best to have a few plastic bottles laying around for containers :wink:

will try and get the name for ya
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Postby Alex B » Thu Apr 27, 2006 3:10 pm

Plasticote rust converter. Dulux do one too, there is a diffrence (one is fully synthetic or something) But the plasticote one worked for me.
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Thu Apr 27, 2006 3:19 pm

2LTR Rona wrote:will try and get the name for ya


Blackguard is the product name
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Postby Meadzy » Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:27 pm

after cutting out the rust in my car and welding new patches in, we sprayed it with epoxy brunox which is a rust stop + primer, and then after it was painted we sprayed all insides of doors and pretty much everwhere that had rust in it with tectyl 506 wd from halvoline(it smells bad) with a body gun.Repco will probly sell the rust stop + primer stuff, its just in a orange spray can
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Postby yobbosayo » Fri May 05, 2006 10:05 pm

I'll put in a good word for POR 15. Get the starter kit and it comes with a bottle of converter/metal primer (probably some sort of acid like a previous poster was talking about) that neutralises the rust. Wash it off, then apply the por 15 paint and you're sweet. Brushes and gloves are in the kit too.

The only problem is top coating it. You can coat it with normal primer, but you need to do it before it fully cures, so that means doing it while the POR 15 is still a wee bit tacky. The other option is to scuff it up with 600 grit after it has dried.
For that reason POR 15 is better in places that won't be seen (like under bog), or where you don't mind the "work in progress" look. On my car I went for the latter and just slapped it around everywhere :)
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