Toyspeed

Dell'Orto wrote:Did some more cutting and welding, door is about ready to have the skin welded back on.
Anyone want to buy a slightly rough KE70 sedan?

Pics of said cutting and welding? Mmmmmm, cutting and welding.

What car is it for?

AFAIK It will cost more than twice as much if they need to create a mould. Maybe ring around all of the fibreglass places you can find and see if anyone already has a mould?

I bought a couple more bottles of this stuff and finally got around to starting on the head last weekend, I just leave the stuff soaking for days and give it a scrub every couple days if the crud is thick.

Here are some cams and cam caps. All of them were black with tar like oil.
http://i236 ...

Thanks, I eventually found a youtube that showed the filler hole. I'm thinking about using the air paraffin gun, take the nozzle off and put some hose on it. I've tried with suction pumps and pouring down long hoses, but the oil is so thick, it takes forever.

The clutch feels a lot better now. I ...

I had to press the studs out with the vice and a bit of thick walled pipe. Then had fun trying to lever stuff around to get enough clearance to get the studs back in the holes.
The car had flexed a bit so the holes for the front of the cross member were out by 5mm. I had to change the jacking point ...

It's pretty amazing stuff huh...expensive way to do it, but it cleans like nothing else I used and doesn't ruin your hands either
Hmmm, I don't think you want to get it on your skin too much. Pretty sure the MSDS said something about "defatting" and "dermatitis". I wore gloves.
I don't know what ...

Greenleaf bioclean.
They have changed the label from the one pictured.
I AM AMAZED at how awesome this stuff is!
Some before pistons at the back there.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/spawn_of_melkor/IMAG2696.jpg
After soaking for a couple of days.
http://i236&#46 ...

So I got myself 5l of the Bio-clean that Dell'Orto recommended.
I chucked all of the pistons in a bucket and poured the Bio-clean in straight. Wow, after only a few minutes the varnish stuff inside the pistons just brushes right off!! And they smell AMAZING!
So I'm leaving them in there overnight.

Dell'Orto wrote:
I bought mine from Bay Engineers Supplies

$41. Out of stock in Lower Hutt, but they are getting me some overnight.

Dell'Orto wrote:http://www.insinc.co.nz/webapps/p/78684/149131/Bio-Clean-Degreaser-5Litres-Greenleaf.html

This stuff here is one of the gruntiest degreasers I've ever used.

Do you know of anywhere that stocks it? Or do I have to order it online? I had a quick google but could not find any shops that sell it.

Couple of 2.25L cokes?
What engine have you aquired with 12 pistons and rods?

Don't get too excited. It's more like two and a half engines. But I want to clean all the parts and use the best ones.

I've tried cleaning aluminium with coke before. I left it for a couple of days, there was no ...

http://www.insinc.co.nz/webapps/p/78684/149131/Bio-Clean-Degreaser-5Litres-Greenleaf.html

This stuff here is one of the gruntiest degreasers I've ever used. I sat a set of 5K pistons in it overnight, and they came out like new. I didn't dilute it at all though, which is probably why it worked so ...

The easiest way to remove rear engine mount (under firewall), is to push out the studs out of it and slide it out. Otherwise you will need to unbolt rear cross member (which holds suspension arms and other things).

The easiest way to remove rear engine mount (under firewall), is to push out the ...

So I have a bunch of pistons, rods, caps etc...
They are pretty filthy with burnt on carbon.
I want to clean them to see if any are okay to reuse. 12 pistons/rods.
Degreasing them is easy.... but it doesn't remove the carbon and orange varnish stuff.

Since the pistons are aluminium, I cannot use ...

Started removing gearbox on the daily AE100 yesterday to replace the clutch.
Pulled the driveshafts out yesterday afternoon, outside, in the drive that hasn't seen sun in weeks. Oh, it was raining too. So I alternated between tidying the garage and removing the driveshafts depending on how much it ...

Lloyd wrote:...words....

Cheers!

I need to change the clutch in my AE100. It just barely disengages now.
I've changed the clutch in a RWD car lots of times, but never a FWD.
Is there an online manual? Or PDF?
Does anyone have a paper copy and can scan/photo the relevant section?

Or do I just make it up as I go along?

If you have never welded before.... I'd suggest getting someone with more experience to weld the firewall, cause it's pretty thin and easy to blow/melt through.
But go for your life on the exhaust, it's pretty thick, so real easy to weld.

The clutch in the daily...weekly... only for groceries ae100 has been on its last legs for ages. I can't be arsed changing it myself, and have been quoted ~$600 to get my mechanic to do it. But I have too many other things that need paying for...
The pedal is right on the floor to disengage, but ...

Don't you have water meth setup?
I'm wondering if its stopped for some reason causing fun times inside the engine?
I used to. We changed it to an auxiliary fuel system and a single injector with E85 to do basically the same thing as water meth injection. I think the E85 was just not being evenly ...