Toyspeed

Rob_GTZ wrote:I reckon we just need more carnage, people smashing into trees & what not.

Funniest thing I ever saw in my rear view mirror!

just drill the centre out and tap it to fit an 8mm cap screw

on the old auto there will be a plug right at the selector lever this has the inhibitor switch and reverse switch so find the wire harness plug that was on there and 2 wires you will need to bridge for the starter and connect the other 2 to the reverse switch on the manual gearbox to get the reverse ...

good luck finding them we had 7 alloys stolen from my work along with some other stuff and been watching trademe etc but no sign of them!

does pay to do points and condenser at the same time set ponts to 18 thou and the worst thing with those was shaft/bush wear so if you can wiggle the top of the shaft where the rotor goes on it needs rebuilding as the points gap keeps changing as the shaft slops around.

I ran a sprung centre for 60,000km in my old levin gtz and took it out when i sold it the buttons are worn but the centre is mint and i drag raced a few times and generally drove it hard.
When we built the clutch we used the stock centre from the original clutch which had 40,000km on it but the ...

long time no see

you going to restore the imp when you retire?

Blairs usually sell them secondhand with rims but even used they arent that cheap as to buy new tyres is expensive and hard to come by.

Is the starter you have now a reduction type?
If not get one, If it is look at getting it reconditioned and get a higher cca battery.

Holy crap! one rim a mistake two rims bad luck? 4 rims INCOMPETENT
Can't believe they did all 4 like that go to small claims with all your evidence and i bet they dont even show up which means you win but sadly doesnt always mean they will pay up.

Good luck

They are easy to do but need to take the s/c off to do it
If it has the cover over the clutch 1990 onwards take the 4 little bolts off and remove it. You will now see the clutch with a small bolt in the middle remove that and pull the centre out watch for any washers and shims there will probably ...

You really need to plasti-gauge the bearings to measure clearance.

Have you got all the caps the right way around (no sure if you can get it wrong) try torquing the caps one by one and see if they are all tight or just one.

You most likely have the wrong bearings for that engine as if it has ...

cough cough Fendalton tractor=$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Nothing like a good wind up eh?


ps I will sell ya the bmw for 6 grand if you want it that much

Don't make us change your name from elmo to DEWMO!!!!!!

Make sure you remove the steel bracket from the back of the manifold to the bottom of the block!
What other problems are you having with the efi?

look in phone book for canterbury air conditioning hes cheaper than most and is mobile so will come to you .
You need to find why you have no gas! He might have to regas it with dye and if it fails again then its easy to find the leak with infra red light.

Im pretty sure cental city use Beatson motors on colombo st near edgeware he does a really good job and will do while you wait if you book in he also does some saturdays to.
He (Murray) has done all my cars and most from where i work

I konw........take it to an electrician who knows what hes doing.

Most likely be a crank angle signal fault (distributor) or an ecu fault.

If the seal isnt leaking just leave it!

If you want to get it off I agree with sergi I have done many and not just toyota's you are best to drill 2 holes tap them to 6mm and use a harmonic balancer puller or similar heating is an option but last resort in my view

The ones in red are common for failing they are a swivel joint not a bush toyota only sell the complete hub assembly try aftermarket shops or get them rebuilt HBI engineering in christchurch does them not sure about north island.