Toyspeed

sorry my bad not reading complete story

removing material from pistons would lower the compression ratio...

skimming the block would bump it up

Not if you take material off the top to make the dish in the piston smaller.
All machining was done by me using a lathe and milling machine.

Still going to lower it, or you run longer rods ...

why knock the stud out.

remove the WHOLE sub-frame incl the arms with swaybar attached then you have unlimited room under the engine, then use a engine stay (strut to strut bar) to hold the engine if you don't have one whack a jack under the engine.... lower it keeping the drivers side mount done ...

What different about C56 LSD axles, is that they have different length splines. You could go to pickapart and get non-LSD axles. C56 Non LSD will work fine with C52, and C160 LSD.

Not that I know of.... remember they don't use a viscous LSD so everything is the same with the helical lsd and a ...

stock injectors are fine, if you put 3s ones in that have black tops they are 440cc... they would need ballists and ecu to work anywhere near "right"
I only peek the std injectors slipping over 9000rpm not were your stock engine is nor what your std mapping will handle

silvertop is 19mm belt, you can use a 20mm belt though but no bigger
Blacktop is 21mm belt

check your ground points, dodgy plug?

Anything it doesn't burn
depending on the engine condition would just go with a 15-40

20v sump will fit, you will need to use the 20v pickup also

depends if the gze sump is the 20v shape or the older 16v shape

you don't even need a starlet diff... go grab a cheapo c series box off at 4afe/7afe and you wont have to rip it apart...
But I dont see your point in doing this.....

If you know what resistor to bridge behind your tacho you can make it run on the mitsi low level output on the ignitor....

Or use the setup image above(haltech).... But iv found it works a lot better with just diodes and don't input the 12v via the resistor at all as it causes the tacho to spike ...

if you get a 4wire universal you might have to weld a threaded nut in to fit it, Some come with a flange so you can just bolt it on but that flange is normally a lot more $$

ferrera dont supertech do

As above it sounds just like a plate lsd... TRD ones seam to be most common, Red line do a LSD additive, Also herd good stuff about the trd lsd oil if your willing to spend

TRD_Man do you remember what castrol oil your lsd liked?

Iv done a blakctop for someone with silvertop rods, block surfaced, head .3mm skim, TRD heady... stock ecu and cams runs on gull 98 no issues

franklin cams do them also round 200+gst for set of 20

blacktop matt
super-tech valves are like 600 area imported and the work to fit them $$$$ there worth over 1k through the nz dealer

supertech do 1mm os valves best to import from US.
them seats are fukd.

fit fine, but will have a hole down the bottom for torque converter bolt access

if you cant get it on put it around the crank pulley then half way over the p/s pulley and cable tie it to the pulley then wind it over, Cable tie stops the belt trying to pull off easy.

Have found that exceeding 9500rpm causes ribs to brake off the belt's