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http://www.drivenperformance.co.nz/scri ... oduct=1950

Ive got a 2nd hand AVC-R blue screen unit here and the idiots who removed it cut the control unit wiring harness so the 12-way connector is no longer in place. I need to know if the colours match up 1:1 with the same colours on the main loom. The wire gauge is different between the two, but I need ...

Flick us an email - ill need to find a price for you as its not a standard item we list.

Sorry only 3/8NPT to -6AN or 1/8NPT to -4AN.

One of what sorry?

Please email us for pricing if you cant find it on our website and I will be happy to help

No front sway bar (see previos comments), open front and centre diffs.

Factory 1.3L charade rear sway bar, just fitted carbonetic rear LSD (which helped a bit as evident in the videos)

Correct. I have not tried stiffer than 10kg in the rear as its already pretty stiff and im going for traction, not loss of traction (at either end!). I hope that with a sway bar we could take the front down a notch though.

From looking at your in car vids the car suffers really bad understeer.

You can say that again! Although the more recent vids show less understeer (and from the drivers seat there was less too):

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We have experimented with various spring rates. At present we have 10KG all round. We ...

We actually only shortened the overall wheelbase by a small amount. Couple inches at most.

The complete front setup IS A STOCK LANCER SETUP. Subframe, arms, hubs, struts,steering rack / arms etc etc all stock mitsi.

No, but as we are using a complete GSR front end it will be doing whatever a CM5A is doing. Mitsi has already done that research...

This is the only image i have at present sorry. Not that useful:

Yes.

I will have to double check the rear toe settings - i cant recall if they are actually 0 or not.

The car is using a CM5A GSR front end. Subframe, hubs, axles, the lot. The rear is using the factory 4wd charade subframe with mitsi diff in it. All rear arms and hubs are daihatsu still with machined ...

Front: We started with about 1 1/4 degrees -ve camber at the front and have worked up to 3 degrees to try an eliminate the understeer. Zero toe and 2 3/4 degrees caster.

Rear: 2 degrees -ve camber and i think zero toe as well.

I did take tyre temps at the last 2 testing days yes. Will have to dig those stats out.

I do still need to work on eliminating understeer though. More -ve camber up front has helped. I need to get some advice on sway bars etc - we dont have one up front yet. Im wondering if we need one and ...

Its a 15x7 rim so yes slightly less than optimum width for a 225 tyre. We do see 4-5psi increase when hot, so often start about 24psi on a warm day.

Using air. And i know does look like overinflation but IIRC Toyo suggested 30-32 psi and we are running well below that.