Toyspeed

scotch brite (The green scrubby stuff) with some emery tape or 2000grit+ wet sand will sort you out.

You sure it's the BOV? Even a leaking BOV shouldn't make the car stumble on idle due to the engine being a MAP sensor engine.

If it's a family car best to just replace the faulty part with a factory part, I'm sure they'll be plentiful since all the kids wants to go PISSSHH.

Nice, more skidz the better.

Finally took the car out for a spin after installing the Tilton twin plate that I got off Bazda.

6k RPM dump clutch, goddamn that thing goes.

I think I might have a slight gearbox issue now, looks like off everything goes again during Christmas / new years.

http://iforce.co.nz/i ...

If you just want to "have a go", buy some scrap panels from pick-a-part to practice on.

Spray painting IMO, is 80% prep work, 20% spraying.

On the front bumper repair that I've done (Fibreglass), it was approximately 5 hours of prepping the surface, and about 20mins of spray paint, and then ...

Without wideband output, the data is not useful enough for you to troubleshoot your issues.
Suggest you get a wideband before you start adjusting things that don't need to be adjusted.

Just went there. The pressure plate is junk. It's warped so much its not funny.

Trying to grab hold of bazda while I'm out and about to get some Tilton ....

If this is not salvageable I'll be moving on to a twin plate, removing the gearbox on the MR2 is a pain, a 4 puck single will definitely hold the power, but repeat clutch drops around the track for skidz probably will kill it pretty fast.

Bazda can do a deal on the Tilton but I'm just worried about ...

Guys, you reckon this is salvageable with a skim / machine?
Pressure plate in question is a TRD one off a MR2, I think it looks wrecked with the heat spots, and some weird bumpy orange peel looking thing in the last pic... time to move on?

http://iforce.co.nz/i/ffil5ooo.r5i.jpg ...

Thanks.

GoPro Hero 3.
1080p60, Protune, Adobe Premiere.

Cheers.

First time on the Hampton downs track, wrecked the clutch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIjRsTswQm8

Can't do anything in terms of having a silencer at the end of the pipe as a quick dirty fix until you get the whole system sorted?

slightly off topic, but $&#$% me people who move next to the race track then take the race track to court about noise need to be shot.

New Zealanders have a high ...

I'm with Al on this one.
Bought used Garrett turbo, installed it without any water cooling - the lines ain't even hooked up. Done my share of events, burnouts, skids, spin outs on track and stall the engine etc. Took it to phothog to disassemble and a rebuild after 10,000kms - just because I felt ...

The only way to do this properly is get a wideband and check your idle's O2.
You can always try trimming fuel at idle. FWIW the usual pressure is 38-42ish PSI for idle pressure, when you prime the FPR will probably bump the pressure since it's seeing atmosphere pressure instead of idling's vacuum ...

Ok, all joking aside though, a few questions:

What do you guys really think of the overall design? There is similar flow from each tip, so I assume the right hand pipe length doesnt matter so much. It sounds decent. I had something different in mind (a muffler with an output pipe on either side ...

You're better off with this, at least it won't leak

Holy shit that's shocking.
Sorry to hear that, $1100 for Cobys and tacked on ends is gonna be a hard pill to swallow.
I am in Howick if you want me to TIG up the thing.

In my experience, the things that die first is actually the selector arms (and related bits) and then bearings, if you can't change gears, it'll be a rebuild job.

Nice work.

I priced it up for machining, it's quite expensive unless we get a group buy going.