whats the best way to launch a car in a drag

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Postby Malcolm » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:04 pm

than a 1.7? show me :P
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Postby fivebob » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:13 pm

vvega wrote:
fivebob wrote:Best way to launch is redline, drop the clutch, order and fit a new clutch, or if your tyres are not up to scratch then order and fit new tyres. Repeat the process until your bank account is empty :oops:


lol been there done that

Me too... at least I stopped at one clutch and didn't do the repeat part of the equation... damn Yokohama A032R's are too sticky for the stock SW20 clutch :oops:
you for got to mention al the cv's driveshafts,gearbox's and engines that also come along with that particular way of doing things

That only happens if you are foolish enough to upgrade the item that fails. i.e. better tyres = slipping clutch, better clutch = broken CVs, better CV's = broken axles, better axles = broken gearbox, better gearbox = broken engine... isn't that why Subarus have such shitty clutches :twisted:
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Postby flygt4 » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:15 pm

front wheel drives just arent made for drag racing :? try different rev points to drop the clutch at , and try slipping it at various levels.
bearing in mind you'll use a different rev point at different tracks and days as the traction is never the same.

haha pfft 1.7's , id be happy with a 2.0 :cry:
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Postby vvega » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:55 pm

fivebob wrote:
vvega wrote:
fivebob wrote:Best way to launch is redline, drop the clutch, order and fit a new clutch, or if your tyres are not up to scratch then order and fit new tyres. Repeat the process until your bank account is empty :oops:


lol been there done that

Me too... at least I stopped at one clutch and didn't do the repeat part of the equation... damn Yokohama A032R's are too sticky for the stock SW20 clutch :oops:
you for got to mention al the cv's driveshafts,gearbox's and engines that also come along with that particular way of doing things

That only happens if you are foolish enough to upgrade the item that fails. i.e. better tyres = slipping clutch, better clutch = broken CVs, better CV's = broken axles, better axles = broken gearbox, better gearbox = broken engine... isn't that why Subarus have such shitty clutches :twisted:


lol
bahahhahahahaha(its only funny cause i know its true)


eventually(providing you have a big walllet to start with) you get to the point you own a group b rally car and end up with a broken driver and spectators :D
Image

just out of intrest what re the upgrades avalible for the sw20 axels in the way of upgrades
molly cages for the cv's ??


v
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Postby vvega » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:02 pm

Image

im sorry but i love these :D
0-100 in 2.3 seconds.....on gravel

v
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:17 pm

ATS in Texas do CV cage upgrades. Quite pricey I think, but the guy with the 9sec sw20 is running them and hasn't broken any IIRC...
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:21 pm

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Postby vvega » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:21 pm

do they have issues with splines stripping or shearing off ??
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Postby fivebob » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:26 pm

vvega wrote:do they have issues with splines stripping or shearing off ??

Not usually, though I've seen a couple of axles broken just past the spline it's not common. There is another company that offers a complete axle replacement, but they seem more prone to failure as they are too brittle.
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Postby vvega » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:41 pm

im considering haveing a set of axel made
i can machine the shafts myself but its gunna cost be $50 bucks a spline to get them cut
as on my little car ones longer than the other i was gunna make one a little thicker to compensate for the twist on the longer shaft

just tryign to deside on material
i was considering 4340

any sugestions ??


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Postby fivebob » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:54 pm

A lot of people make axles out of 4340 so you're probably on safe ground with that one. Though I note that Heat Treatments recommends 2767 for drive axles.

You could always go for some of that exotic vacuum remelted stuff, but the axles would be worth more than the car :oops:
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Postby vvega » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:29 pm

they heat treat the 2767 so its probably for ease of manufacture
though id hate to spend 400 on axels and then have one break
and the cycle starts again.........................



v
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Postby Al » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:23 pm

The 9.8 second mr2 runs stock late model gearbox with KAAZ LSD, stock axles with ATS cv's and some monster clutch :D

He has broken several aftermarket axles, yet the stock ones with the ATS cages seem to hold up.

Bryan Moore did several 1.6 60fts on a single spinner '91 turbo box in his car, 11.85 @ 115mph on a stock ct20b 8)
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:30 pm

Al wrote:Bryan Moore did several 1.6 60fts on a single spinner '91 turbo box in his car, 11.85 @ 115mph on a stock ct20b 8)


NoShoes....that's on slicks though, right? The mk1.5 he's building should go even faster :D
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Postby Al » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:33 pm

DOT approved 275/50R17s!!!

Still a single spinner, the stock viscous is pretty bloody useless on the strip anyway :lol:
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Postby vvega » Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:15 pm

Al wrote:The 9.8 second mr2 runs stock late model gearbox with KAAZ LSD, stock axles with ATS cv's and some monster clutch :D

He has broken several aftermarket axles, yet the stock ones with the ATS cages seem to hold up.

Bryan Moore did several 1.6 60fts on a single spinner '91 turbo box in his car, 11.85 @ 115mph on a stock ct20b 8)


problem is i cant run stock axels


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Postby fivebob » Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:25 pm

vvega wrote:they heat treat the 2767 so its probably for ease of manufacture

Not sure, but I don't think so as they list 4340 (also H&T) for camshafts, which would imply that it isn't a manufacturing issue. Perhaps giving them a call, as it suggests on the webpage, might be a good idea before spending any money.
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Postby Loudtoy » Tue Jan 24, 2006 6:27 pm

flygt4 wrote:front wheel drives just arent made for drag racing :? try different rev points to drop the clutch at , and try slipping it at various levels.
bearing in mind you'll use a different rev point at different tracks and days as the traction is never the same.

haha pfft 1.7's , id be happy with a 2.0 :cry:


Hmm just do what i did, take your basicly stock 101 20v, add one of the old gizzmo launch control/shift light units get a 2.0 60 and a 14.7 1/4 at 94 or so mph :)
Nothing easier than setting rev to desired launch rpm, putting foot to floor and leaving it there untill past the finish line - flat shifting was another advantage of the gizzmo setup (and big flames if you were playing at night :twisted: )
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