80's toyotas vs 90's toyotas RUST

General discussions on all non technical car related topics

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Postby Caveman » Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:30 pm

sergei wrote:IT IS NOT FISH OIL!!!!
There is difference between metal composition.
My ST165 rusts like lada on salty roads, while my AE101 does not.
As usual ST165 had rusted floors (right trough) so I used piece of spare guard of AE101 to fix it (we gas welded the holes so any "fish oil" on AE101 metal surface, would be cooked off), I was lazy (CBF condition) so I did not painted the welded place (naked steel) straight away and was driving in rain like this for a few days. Basically it took 1 overnight for ST165 steel to rust, while AE101 remain shiny for weeks (that is right I wire brushed the metal surfaces so there was no chance for fish oil to remain, not that manufacturers use fish oil - paint does not stick to it anyway). It also rules out galvanisation (it would be bitch to weld with gas welder). So my conclusion is that "new" steel contains more chromium (or other metal that creates non porous oxide layer on surface of the steel).

Also it is not sea travel that affects new cars, it is the salt on japanese roads, that they put in snowy regions of the country.

oh damn do you think a zinc rich primer or similar would help with rust? Ive thought it might be the steel used but was never sure. This would mean my aw11 is doomed for constant rust repairs :cry:
AW11 Track Toy
Formerly known as 1998
User avatar
Caveman
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1918
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:20 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby RomanV » Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:52 pm

Dylan what you need to do is pull EVERYTHING out of the car, and have it as a bare shell up on axle stands. It wont help with the rust, but it'll make me feel better. :lol:
User avatar
RomanV
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4915
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:17 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby levinguy » Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:23 pm

seeing as its relevant. my aw11 ... well rust and yeah
if i was to get it resprayed would it still come back because of the primer?
would it be worth the extra amount of money taking it back to bare metal to prevent rust in years to come?

would be paying someone to do it as well.
levinguy
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 984
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 4:14 pm
Location: Pukekohe/ Central Auckland

Postby Caveman » Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:28 pm

RomanV wrote:Dylan what you need to do is pull EVERYTHING out of the car, and have it as a bare shell up on axle stands. It wont help with the rust, but it'll make me feel better. :lol:

baha you would like that wouldnt you, then I can sit in it like you and pretend to be owning up the nurburgring.

hmmm considering taking it back to metal then painting the whole thing in cold galv 8)
AW11 Track Toy
Formerly known as 1998
User avatar
Caveman
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1918
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:20 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby Truenotch » Mon Sep 03, 2007 6:35 pm

LOL . Galved AW11.....

Could get it powdercoated? :lol:
User avatar
Truenotch
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1960
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 3:41 pm
Location: Hamilton

Postby Adamal » Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:37 pm

RomanV wrote:Dylan what you need to do is pull EVERYTHING out of the car, and have it as a bare shell up on axle stands. It wont help with the rust, but it'll make me feel better. :lol:


Dude, its that sort of humourous outlook that makes me wonder why I don't get on the piss with you as much as I used to hahaha
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
User avatar
Adamal
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 11592
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 4:01 pm
Location: Waitakere Drift Stage (Ranges)

Postby Zak » Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:03 pm

fuel wrote:where is the rust, how bad is the rust? ie, are we talking about actual rust holes and actual corrosion of the metal, or just little specs of surface rust.

You need to neutralise the rust reaction, using a rust killer or rust convertor - that will stop the current rust reaction dead in its tracks, then apply a means of rust protection/preventative such as fish oil if its out of sight (ie inside the doors/guards/hatch etc) or prime/paint over it if it's on the outside.


Most of it is just surface, for now, it's bubbling through the relitivly new paint though (2 years old) There is two holes behind the rear bumper at the sides. but thats not too majour. Both the a and b pilars are getting surface too :cry:
Zak
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1373
Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 10:18 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby RomanV » Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:44 pm

Adamal wrote:Dude, its that sort of humourous outlook that makes me wonder why I don't get on the piss with you as much as I used to hahaha


It's because I've been avoiding you, ever since I traded your strut brace for some magic beans. :P

PM sent!
User avatar
RomanV
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4915
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:17 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby Adamal » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:59 pm

Which, might I add, didn't work...

I've got some rust on my AW.... (Surprise surprise) which is at the middle of the A pillar on both sides and at the bottom of the A pillar on both sides, and a small bit on the rear quater at the very back/bottom of the drivers side.

Got a quote to have it cut out and replaced by a professional welder type person, just about gave me a heart attack....


$300! :mrgreen:

Of course, he's a busy man, so I'll have to wait, but thats ok, I've got Dom Toretto shipping me over night parts from Japan thats taking a few weeks.
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
User avatar
Adamal
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 11592
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 4:01 pm
Location: Waitakere Drift Stage (Ranges)

Postby Mad Murphy » Mon Sep 03, 2007 10:49 pm

All AWs rust, mine's been in for rust repairs a couple of times. First time for where some muppet had left primer sitting over some half-arsed rust 'repairs' for ages and the second time was from a leaky washer bottle in the frunk. I got rid of some rust in my Rona the other day with a wire brush, sandpaper and that rust killer stuff, time will tell if it'll come back and frankly I don't care if it does). The bottoms of the doors and under a mudguard rusted out on my old Corona too. Rust repairs are usually dirt cheap if you catch them early anyway.
1989 Supercharged AW11, 1981 Sprinter GT, 1991 Primera s**tmobile.

Facelift AW11 Parts Wanted!
User avatar
Mad Murphy
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1313
Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 4:38 pm
Location: Rolleston

Previous

Return to General Car Discussion

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 44 guests