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jakesae101 wrote:braked tandems are alot nicer to tow a car with from my personal experiance tipping trailers save alot of hassle if i was to get a car trailer id get a tipping tandem
MAGN1T wrote:
I got rid of a trailer load of scrap today. My weighbridge ticket says
Gross 2820, tare, 2200, net 620 (trailer weighs about 450Kgs).
So my scrap weighed 620Kg but I've regularly had 1750 on there so that would make 3950Kg all up. Hmmm might need an HT. Definately need brakes, I have.
Steve
matt dunn wrote:A well built single axel loaded properly tow's as if it's not there.
matt dunn wrote:And suspension on a car trailer is only any good when it's empty,
and then it does bugger all.
If you tie the car on correctly, the cars suspension absorbs the bumps.
Malcolm wrote:matt dunn wrote:And suspension on a car trailer is only any good when it's empty,
and then it does bugger all.
If you tie the car on correctly, the cars suspension absorbs the bumps.
Interestingly, I was reading a Koni catalogue recently and they recommended strapping race cars down by the chassis so the suspension doesn't move to decrease wear on your expensive racecar dampers.
Mr Revhead wrote:matt dunn wrote:A well built single axel loaded properly tow's as if it's not there.
aw come on, you can just bung things on any old way and she'll be right mate
Loudtoy wrote:Malcolm wrote:matt dunn wrote:And suspension on a car trailer is only any good when it's empty,
and then it does bugger all.
If you tie the car on correctly, the cars suspension absorbs the bumps.
Interestingly, I was reading a Koni catalogue recently and they recommended strapping race cars down by the chassis so the suspension doesn't move to decrease wear on your expensive racecar dampers.
Have you ever tied a car down by it's chassis and seen how much it still moves around. If you tried to stop it moving it around on the chassis you'd be stopping every 5 minuted for the 1st half hour getting it tied down so it didn't move.
Tied propely through the wheels it will be fine. Intersetingly when i had a bike and tied that on the trailer i used to have to let the air out of the front forks (had a little valve to do that) after having it tied down on the bars with no movement so i'm not sure what it would do to car susp
85AW20v wrote:I always have the AW on backwards due to the weight distribution. And I tie it down with chains and turnbuckles through the towing eyes on the car and it doesn't move anywhere. Really quick and easy, especially on wet days.
toymato wrote:A-frame?
gadgetman wrote:I'd go for a tilting trailer (I want to convert mine to one shortly). By the time you hook the towing vehicle to the trailer, extend the ramps and line the load vehicle behind that you need an awful lot of room. Tow vehicle (4.3m), draw bar (1.3m), deck (3.6m), ramps (1.5m), load (4.3m) plus room to move ....
Tandem is the only way to go for a transporter unless you have very heavy duty wheels and axles (which tend to be too wide to be useful).
Agree on using the rear hubs from a front wheel drive vehicle, better quality, park brakes, much cheaper for what you get.
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