GTT Drag Time

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Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Oct 17, 2010 8:25 pm

RedMist wrote:
metal_sean_head wrote:Depends if you granny shift or double clutch like you should.

Double clutch? Only if you're trying to be both slow and destructive on your drivetrain!


I hereby sentence you to 14 continuous viewing hours of The Fast & The Furious to understand what you just did wrong :lol:
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Postby Malcolm » Sun Oct 17, 2010 8:54 pm

cat007 wrote:
Malcolm wrote:When I dragged my ST185 I just held it around 6K, then sidestepped off the clutch and put my right foot flat. Good enough for 1.7 60 foots, but it did eventually cost me a gearbox.


Try that with a standard 140K clutch....

a 140K standard clutch is gonna be rooted after a drag session, especially if you're slipping it hard off the line
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Postby cat007 » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:20 pm

Malcolm wrote:
cat007 wrote:
Malcolm wrote:When I dragged my ST185 I just held it around 6K, then sidestepped off the clutch and put my right foot flat. Good enough for 1.7 60 foots, but it did eventually cost me a gearbox.


Try that with a standard 140K clutch....

a 140K standard clutch is gonna be rooted after a drag session, especially if you're slipping it hard off the line


That's my point exactly. i.e. your advise/suggestion is not the best in this case. On a possible stock 140K clutch, I'd suggest engaging as quick as possible and at as lower RPM as possible to avoid getting a tow truck home....
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Postby Malcolm » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:54 pm

but what's the point in going racing if you're just going to take it easy and run slow times? Might as well not show up
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Postby RedMist » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:00 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
RedMist wrote:
metal_sean_head wrote:Depends if you granny shift or double clutch like you should.

Double clutch? Only if you're trying to be both slow and destructive on your drivetrain!


I hereby sentence you to 14 continuous viewing hours of The Fast & The Furious to understand what you just did wrong :lol:


NOOOOOOooooooooooo........ seriously..... NOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooo
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Postby levinguy » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:01 pm

RedMist wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:
RedMist wrote:
metal_sean_head wrote:Depends if you granny shift or double clutch like you should.

Double clutch? Only if you're trying to be both slow and destructive on your drivetrain!


I hereby sentence you to 14 continuous viewing hours of The Fast & The Furious to understand what you just did wrong :lol:


NOOOOOOooooooooooos........ seriously..... NOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooos


so you have seen it?
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Postby RedMist » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:11 pm

Managed to get through the first one "The Fast & The Furious "... only because I'm a bit of a Vin Diesel fan. The storyline is tolerable (if you're hit over the head a few hundred times with a brick before watching it), acting reasonable, but the realism of the driving, or the mechanical understanding of the writers... FUBAR! Marty McFly has a more believeable driving style (just watch out for the small bump at 88mph).
The answer is Helmholtz!

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Postby BZG Wagon » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:47 pm

cat007 wrote:
Malcolm wrote:
cat007 wrote:
Malcolm wrote:When I dragged my ST185 I just held it around 6K, then sidestepped off the clutch and put my right foot flat. Good enough for 1.7 60 foots, but it did eventually cost me a gearbox.


Try that with a standard 140K clutch....

a 140K standard clutch is gonna be rooted after a drag session, especially if you're slipping it hard off the line


That's my point exactly. i.e. your advise/suggestion is not the best in this case. On a possible stock 140K clutch, I'd suggest engaging as quick as possible and at as lower RPM as possible to avoid getting a tow truck home....


I'm sure 2 - 3 runs won't destroy my clutch, and surely 1.5 seconds of slippage off the line won't do much damage? Think of it as a violent hill start :P

I've found engaging the clutch in my car 'quickly' bogs it down big time & mobility scooter would kick it's ass off the line in such situations.

And still not sure why another 1/2 second of load on the handbrake would be a bad thing?

I also have this theory that my constant heel-toe & blipping on downshifts, as well as non-traffic driving has prolonged the life of my clutch - so time to claim a bit of it back :twisted:.
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Postby BZG Wagon » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:50 pm

3T-Rona wrote:
BZG Wagon wrote:Why would I double clutch? Wouldn't that slow you?

Watch The Fast And The Furious a couple more times.......

LOL ...and suddenly this tread makes sense.
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Postby Bling » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:53 pm

We so had you...
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Postby GTTpower » Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:20 am

iOnic wrote:If you want to get off the line as quickly as possible in an AWD car you're gonna have to leave your mechanical sympathy at home. If you actually care about being able to drive the car afterwards then just drive it off the line and focus on getting your shifting right during the run.


This here, cant do half measures when launching a 4WD, otherwise will result in mass bog. Either limiter launch or roll off :wink:
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Postby dnalunchie » Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:39 am

BZG|Bling wrote:We so had you...


We never had him, we never had his car
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Postby Timmo » Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:09 pm

BZG Wagon wrote:And still not sure why another 1/2 second of load on the handbrake would be a bad thing?



What is the point? Where is the power going to go? (either by burning your clutch or causing a false start)

It is just one more thing to get wrong IMO (i.e. fantastic launch at correct RPM....but then you let the handbrake off slightly too late = poos)
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Postby cat007 » Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:54 pm

Timmo wrote:
BZG Wagon wrote:And still not sure why another 1/2 second of load on the handbrake would be a bad thing?



What is the point? Where is the power going to go? (either by burning your clutch or causing a false start)

It is just one more thing to get wrong IMO (i.e. fantastic launch at correct RPM....but then you let the handbrake off slightly too late = poos)


It's so you don't shock load your drivetrain - so there's already a small amount of tension on it. Think of what happens if you rev to 3,000rpm in an auto in neutral and then put it in drive....
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Postby metal_sean_head » Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:16 pm

If it was me, i would just ease it off the line and once the clutch is fully out then give it the beans. Might be a bit slower but at least you will be able to drive it home.
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Postby dnalunchie » Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:56 pm

You are either going to run a flat 14 if you totally rape it or like a 14.3 if you take it easy, for the sake of .3 seconds is your drivelines death worth it?
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Postby levinguy » Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:29 pm

dnalunchie wrote:You are either going to run a flat 14 if you totally rape it or like a 14.3 if you take it easy, for the sake of .3 seconds is your drivelines death worth it?


yes.
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:49 pm

cat007 wrote:It's so you don't shock load your drivetrain - so there's already a small amount of tension on it. Think of what happens if you rev to 3,000rpm in an auto in neutral and then put it in drive....

That's just retarded, it's going to make 3/5ths of $&#$% all difference to the impact loading on your drivetrain, and will pre-heat your clutch so it wont grip up properly and not to mention wear out a lot quicker.

dnalunchie wrote:You are either going to run a flat 14 if you totally rape it or like a 14.3 if you take it easy, for the sake of .3 seconds is your drivelines death worth it?

The difference between raping and nana'ing is a lot more than 0.3 of a second, especially if you end up bogging the start and/or drive the first 100m below 4000rpm.
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Postby cat007 » Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:53 pm

Malcolm wrote:
cat007 wrote:It's so you don't shock load your drivetrain - so there's already a small amount of tension on it. Think of what happens if you rev to 3,000rpm in an auto in neutral and then put it in drive....

That's just retarded, it's going to make 3/5ths of $&#$% all difference to the impact loading on your drivetrain, and will pre-heat your clutch so it wont grip up properly and not to mention wear out a lot quicker.

dnalunchie wrote:You are either going to run a flat 14 if you totally rape it or like a 14.3 if you take it easy, for the sake of .3 seconds is your drivelines death worth it?

The difference between raping and nana'ing is a lot more than 0.3 of a second, especially if you end up bogging the start and/or drive the first 100m below 4000rpm.


You're right about the 2nd part. But not so much the first.

Oh and also make sure you warm the car up. Don't just think because the engine is at "operating temperature" that it'll be warm. Your gearbox components and oil will still be pretty cold. That's also a giant killer.
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Oct 18, 2010 5:51 pm

cat007 wrote:You're right about the 2nd part. But not so much the first.

Haha, well I guess you're the one who's studied this stuff right? :roll: :lol:
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