Broken ringlands, ..... due to detonation...
NOT due to ring butting...that theory came from murica, tooners vs engine builders........tooners can't toon.. But bigger ring gaps will bleed off a bit of combustion pressure, give more blowby etc. AND lose power.So that's a minus.
Then you still get flattened big end bearings and a leaking head gasket....and no, headstuds don't do anything either.
Now if you really, really really want to think about this ring gap thing.....I've watched it on youtube too and from so called reliable sources but it's still wrong.
The theory is that when you make more power, the rings get too hot and butt and break the ringlands????
BUT
In the case of just getting hotter and hotter and hotter the pistons will expand to the point that it seizes....the engine will stop.The rings don't get damaged, the ringlands don't break.
As an example I bought a lancer shitbox a few years back, it overheated on the previous owner, it did it lots of times and progressively got worse to the point where it seized........so I bought it cheap......I did one of my special "fixes" on it (retorqued the head) then drove it every day over the wainui hill for over a year with no problems and no broken ringlands.
No, you're never going to tune successfully by ear, you'd like to think that you can but you can't.....that's why we have special instruments. Low speed knock is easy to hear, high speed knock isn't. The frequency spectrum is different. You'll break a ringland before you ever get a chance to hear anything....it's the shockwave that does it with the sudden increase in cylinder pressure.
So you really need a thicker head gasket.
The ECU doesn't really factor into it, all it has to do is provide the right fuel to keep the AFR correct and also fire the plugs at the right time. It'll work with a stock knock sensor...a link won't.
Your 8.5 mm leads will do nothing.
Your MSD ignition will do nothing unless you don't have enough energy as it is and it's misfiring....otherwise to make it help you'll need to open the plug gaps right out to give a quicker burn.
Your exhaust evacuation system might give you a half a PSI reduction, hardly worth mentioning....use the aircon pump?
Flannelman wrote:Any thoughts? !
The snow performance wm BS system doesn't give you a failsafe...it's just more marketing BS.
The only way to have a working failsafe is to detect knock successfully....which with a factory ECU shouldn't be a problem.
The snow performance is based on AFR. A lean AFR doesn't do any harm at all, it's the following detonation which does the damage.
So unfortunately all it'll do is give a false sense of security.
The water part of the water injection always works though....for fighting knock. It increases the octane value depending on the volume injected which with a snow kit is always insufficient.
As for the lectric waterpump..........the energy that it uses is determined by the amount of water it has to move. Volume and pressure.
By going lectric you're saving on direct mechanical energy driving it but at the same time the alternator has to work extra hard 'cos that's what's now driving it.......end result zero gains and maybe extra losses.
So all you're really doing is adding compression which is already at it's practical limit.
