Beams 3sge vs Sr20det vs 3tgte

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Postby wde_bdy » Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:10 am

It would depend what level you are going to, for 250hp it isn't cost effective but going past the point where the SR needs new pistons, manifolds, large turbo and new computer and the costs start to level out. I intend to go crazy on a 3T single cam in my Starlet once I get it finished and get bored with the 3T-GTE.

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Postby mjrstar » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:26 am

fuel wrote:just putting this out there

Image


I was going to suggest this also.. I wonder what box it has.. :?:

My evo makes a pretty lazy 230KW at all 4, with factory parts except exhaust, fuel pump and a minor turbo upgrade..

shihad wrote:probally not viable cost wise but I have always thought a carina was the perfect size for a 1ggte...


oh yeah, I wouldn't go down this path, 1G is old/hard to get bits for. if this was a consideration, just cut an extra 70mm out of the firewall and to the JZ conversion.
My 1g on 20psi probably makes less power and torque than a 1J at 13psi, but does make the starlet go ok.
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Postby FANGIN » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:44 am

mjrstar wrote:
fuel wrote:just putting this out there
RWD Evo Motor


I was going to suggest this also.. I wonder what box it has.. :?:

My evo makes a pretty lazy 230KW at all 4, with factory parts except exhaust, fuel pump and a minor turbo upgrade..

shihad wrote:probally not viable cost wise but I have always thought a carina was the perfect size for a 1ggte...



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Postby TRD Man » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:53 am

Deane Buist from Christchurch ran one in his DX Corolla rally car. Might be prepared to sell the gear. Worth a call ... next week.
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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:15 am

It would depend what level you are going to, for 250hp it isn't cost effective but going past the point where the SR needs new pistons, manifolds, large turbo and new computer and the costs start to level out. I intend to go crazy on a 3T single cam in my Starlet once I get it finished and get bored with the 3T-GTE


Cost wise the 3T OHV Hemi head Build will be the cheapest for me. Even cheaoer then getting a SR20 in there.
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Postby wde_bdy » Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:26 am

That will really depend how you do it. To turbo the 3T properly you are up for forged pistons, custom exhaust manifold, turbo, custom inlet manifold, ECU, tuning etc which very very quickly add up to more than a complete SR20 package. Fuel system will be the same for either swap so your only real saving is engine and gearbox mounts.

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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:04 am

My car is EFi already so its realy the pump (regardless of which motor). Injectors, Turbo t3/t4 are not that expensive. Exhaust manifold my mate can do up for me aswell as the inlet. Exhaust , mr muffler is very well priced but will need to be done regardless of wahat motor i use. Megasquirt are very well priced and i have not heard anything that bad about them.

A SR20 + install is almost setting me back $6000+. St

All 3T parts aftermarket needed to make a reliable and powerfull motor (guys in us are doing 500,600 + hp) is only $3000-$3500 delivered to my door step. Then all i have to add is turbo , injectors, manifolds , exhaust , pump and megasquirt + tuning. which should be around $6500 but i will have a quicker and more reliable motor.
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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:08 pm

Does anyone have know of or have first hand experience with the 3Tc/3Teu turbo motors? Has anyone in New Zeland done one (im sure they have)? Results, numbers?
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Postby fangsport » Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:37 pm

Babz wrote:Does anyone have know of or have first hand experience with the 3Tc/3Teu turbo motors? Has anyone in New Zeland done one (im sure they have)? Results, numbers?
built plenty of N/A motors, but because i'm very unmotivated, i have not yet assembled the stash for the turbo version.
the guy who built my original 3t rally engine, built one up in the mid-late 80's with easy 160-180hp N/A, so turboing one should easily net your magical 250 mark.
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Postby sergei » Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:47 pm

I see the big problem with T series motor is spare parts.
Run a bearing, ruin a crank and you have a big problem.
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Postby tsoob » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:01 pm

rotors are cooler than pistons cos they are shaped like triangles :mrgreen:
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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:07 pm

I see the big problem with T series motor is spare parts.
Run a bearing, ruin a crank and you have a big problem.[quote]

But thats just the thing. Google BRD racing and this guy (Randy) has all the parts for your 3t/2t needs.. For eg, a set of crank race bearings delivered to my door step is around 200-220 USD. PIstons is 500-600 USD delivered depending on what compression you get etc.

After finding Randy from BRD Racing it seems so easy to do. So i have decided to stick with the 3t Motor :P Time to start saving for the motor.

Does anyone have bushing and suspension hookups? Know anyone from Geroge Stock or Autolighn?
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
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Postby levinguy » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:10 pm

tsoob wrote:rotors are cooler than pistons cos they are shaped like triangles :mrgreen:


and triangles are the strongest structure in nature :wink: :lol:

but seriously, sr20 would be the logical choice without a doubt, one would think.
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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:11 pm

Here is the list and cost. Any suggestions or comments?

Pistons Wiseco Low Compression 8.5:1 87mm $440.00 US
Eagle Connecting Rods $320.00 US
Calico CT-1 Coated Bearing Kit $159.00 US
ARP Head Studs Kit $160.00 US
ARP Main Stud Kit $110.00 US
Hardened Pushrods $80.00 US
Camshaft $229.00 US
High Performance Timing Set with Dial $229.00 US
Toyota 3TC/2TC Billet Main Caps $399.00 US
8MM Spark Plug Wires $50.00 US
Cosmetic Head Gasket $70.00
Shipping $158.00
Total $2,404.00 US
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
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Postby 4agtepwr » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:17 pm

There a boat anchor, my best mate ran one in his te71, we perservered with it for a while, got it to make 200kw but was very unreliable, and yeah spare parts were so hard to come across, had endless headgasket issues. Went 13.5 at the drags at like 104. Binned it went for and sr20 went 12.2 straight away with the turbo off the old boat anchor. And it was reliable. Got it to run 10.58 at 132 on a dead standard bottom end, a ported head, a smallish but good quality turbonetics T3/T4 and a tank full of c16 and made a easy 460 hp. Same motor now makes 557hp with a set of cams a gt3540 and some off the shelf wiseco pistons. And it is once again very reliable.
Don't waste your time and money on a 3t. Just cause it can be done doesnt make it worth doing
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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:25 pm

Hey 4agte power. Where did you source the parts from and what head gasket were you guys using? Just need to know if you guys did put in proper after market parts were trying to make do with what you had? What was done to the motor. Any help would be appreciated man.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:27 pm

What is your number one goal?
Is this thing a toy, or doe sit need to do a certain thing for say racing or something?
ie is this car being built from the "heart" or from the "head"
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Postby 4agtepwr » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:30 pm

The motor was done a long time ago but from memory it had some ugly old ross forged pistons it it, a midly ported head and ran custom made headgaskets from a couple of different places down here, The head gasket issue could have been solved but my friend wisely chose not to waste more money on an old motor.
Current ride: Sweeeeet Hiace. 3L power!!!!
Project: AW11 4agte, 410kw 555hp on 26psi
11.1 @ 125.5mph with more to come, As seen in Aug 2011 Performance Car, haha
viewtopic.php?t=61383

Huge thanks to Phil from NZEFI, Al and Brendan from Caraid and Hamish from Sheifield Cresent Auto
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Postby Babz » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:32 pm

From the heart man. It will mostly be used as a weekend cruiser with occasional track/drag action.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:34 pm

Then stare at pics of SR20s and 3Ts and see which one makes you do this
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