Engine conversion cert.

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Engine conversion cert.

Postby Quint » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:51 am

putting a 1uz into an ma45.

Never done an engine conversion or know anyone that has. What kind of things will they be looking for? Anything thats an instant fail and un-fixable?

Any tips to getting one?

Car hasn't had a WoF in ~14 years (96 was its last WoF) its on hold etc.
Has a running engine and drives well, is it better to get a WoF with the standard kit first, then do the conversion or just plonk it altogether and then take it through the process?
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Postby mr30%jr » Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:44 am

yes, get a warrant with standard engine, it will count towards an easier cert most likely we know it shouldn't but it probably would.

i would say your most likely looking around the engine mount and gearbox mount area... and can the current brakes support the power upgrade.

it would pay if there are any kind of welding around the mounts or chassis to get someone with a ticket to do it

you can usually get a cert place to give it a quick going over or ask them about the prices and what they are looking for.
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Postby Malcolm » Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:01 am

best bet is always to work out who you're going to get to cert it and go and discuss with them, especially regarding things like welding of mounts. The place I took mine just inspected the welds on the mounts (asked me not to paint them before cert), rather than requiring a ticketed welder, same deal with stuff like welding for seat mounts etc.

seriously, talk to a certifier, they will usually be more than happy to help with making the process as smooth as possible for both of you.
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Postby d1 mule » Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:26 pm

whe i took my cars (2) through cert the only brake test they did was "does the car stop from 100kph in X meters 3 times in a row without fade"

the main thing will be engine and box mounts, D shaft hoop and emissions id think.


the 1UZ is prob quite a bit lighter the a big old "M" anchor anyways
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Postby Quint » Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:47 pm

d1 mule wrote:the main thing will be engine and box mounts, D shaft hoop and emissions id think.

Emissions ID?


the 1UZ is prob quite a bit lighter the a big old "M" anchor anyways
Have access to a scale so will try and get both weighed, just for interest. The 1UZ has turned out to be a fair bit heavier than i expected. Had to re-enforce my engine stand to take the weight.
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Postby Adoom » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:06 pm

Quint wrote:
d1 mule wrote:the main thing will be engine and box mounts, D shaft hoop and emissions id think.

Emissions ID?


the 1UZ is prob quite a bit lighter the a big old "M" anchor anyways
Have access to a scale so will try and get both weighed, just for interest. The 1UZ has turned out to be a fair bit heavier than i expected. Had to re-enforce my engine stand to take the weight.


"...emissions, I would think..." Is what I believe he meant. I never got checked on emissions when i did my cert less than a year ago....
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:49 pm

Def talk to the guy who will do the cert as they all like different things..
Hell even the same guy can do it differently at times...
eg my KE70 with custom front arms, celica struts and brakes etc he didn't even sit in.
Yet my flat mates AE82 with s/s calipers he drove and break tested....
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Postby Bling » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:53 pm

In all seriousness... who is going to fail a guys KE70 when he's carrying a ninja sword... :lol:

As has been mentioned, you should be asking your preferred cert man these questions and what they will be expecting to see. Will save you a lot of tears i'm sure 8)
Last edited by Bling on Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:54 pm

:lol: It's not as if I carry a sword with me!
And none of mine are Ninja swords :P
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Postby d1 mule » Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:35 pm

yeah emissions is now part of the cert process has to pass "X" value of cO2 ppm or a AFR of at least 12:1 or something, havnt certed a car since that rule has been in effect so dont know for sure

all the lsearching iv done said a 1uz is like 10-20KG heavier than a 4age so SFA really

oh and tires have to actually fit rims now too. so like a 10" (255mm) wide rim has to ideally jave a 255 but is allowed a 245 minimum or a 265 maximim width.
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Postby rollaholic » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:47 am

i was under the impression those numbers were a guideline for cases where the inspector felt the fitment was inappropriate. plenty of cases where a tyre fitment would fall outside the guidelines but still look and BE perfectly reasonable
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