Self lowering on AE92 Corolla help

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Self lowering on AE92 Corolla help

Postby SKDABL » Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:45 pm

Is this hard to do?
I've just scored some TRD lowering springs off trademe and was wondering if it was hard to install them myself?
Will i need any equipment?
Is it best if i get it done professionally rather than installing them myself?

Thanks!
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Postby Bling » Fri Oct 08, 2004 5:42 pm

well i am looking at doing the same thing soon as I need to replace my shocks....haven't done it before, but aparently its not THAT hard.

ask some mates if they have done it before and get them to help you. you'll need spring compressors (i think) in order to compress the spring so u can take the spring out safely (can be dangerous i hear).

but yeah haven't done it YET, so don't know for sure :)
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Postby Distrb » Fri Oct 08, 2004 6:45 pm

piece of cake to do..

will need the following...

- Jack
- Jackstands
Socket set
Spring clamps
And possibly an allen key and or ringspanner set and a for your rear swaybar (not sure if they attach to the strut on an ae92)

you will have to get a wheel alignment though once you've finished
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Postby Ae92typeX » Fri Oct 08, 2004 9:57 pm

Im pretty sure for your model you will need to disconnect the front break hoses as they go through the strutt
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Postby [intrcool] » Sat Oct 09, 2004 10:46 am

dude.. i have the same car and lowered it myself. you wont need to disconect the brake lines...

there is a bracket that they go thru which is welded to the strut. There is a clip on the end of that bracked holding the line on.

You would think that when u took off the clip, the hose would come out. It doesnt. It isnt open ended. So, just hack saw the end out, and when it comes to reassembly, use the clip to cover that end off again. Worked a charm on my car.

Took us about an hour to lower the front of my car, and then about 2 hours to do the rear. The rear is alot harder than the front.

im not very mechanically minded, but i didnt find this hard to do at all..
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Postby Dr-X » Sat Oct 09, 2004 11:24 am

I lowered my car myself when I had no previous experience, and no one else to help me. Took me a total of about 2.5 hours, was MUCH easier than i expected.
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Postby CAMB01 » Mon Oct 11, 2004 8:31 pm

You will need some spring compressors, i used a home made set. I found it easier to disconnect the brake lines on the front as i needed to bleed the brakes anyway. Just after you got it all back together and road test recheck all the bolts especially the top hat nut.
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Postby Bazda » Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:03 pm

if u got a hoist and air tools takes 40 mins front and rear :D
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Postby Dr-X » Tue Oct 12, 2004 7:37 am

i still maintain that spring compressors are unnecessary. Point away from face, and go for it.
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Postby thaphatty » Tue Oct 12, 2004 8:34 am

yep, just point down street/into paddock and just $&#$% go hard. good chance you loose the nut, which ever spanner your using, and the nut and plate hold the shit on, but nothing a little searching wont turn up. what about placing it on the right angle then throwing a matress over it and hitting it with a broom or putting it in a pool or something.

but then your screwed when you go to put them back in eh, unless the weight of your car can compress the spring enough to get the nut back on top of the shock

wouldnt recommend doing that on your first time though, could hurt yourself if your not prepared
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Postby [intrcool] » Wed Oct 13, 2004 11:48 am

hahah u nutters.
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Postby ants_ae92 » Tue Oct 19, 2004 11:16 am

Done the same thing on my ae92 levin. It is a good idea to cut the brackets so you dont have to bleed the brakes, but it is all up to you, either way is fine. Air tools is the way to go. You need it to get the shock nut off. First compress the springs down(spring compressors) then wind the top nut off. Fit new springs. You may or may not have to compress the new springs down too. On mine I didnt have to. Just make sure when you fit the top plate to the shock that the top plate sits in the right way, as it has grooves in the top of it. Also make sure they are captive. Other problems I had was the rear sway bar links were rusted and would not come off with sh*tloads of crc. (Rear sway bar).

Mine took a bit longer say 3 hours (Rear sway bar links). But if you have the right tools and the know how, an hour would be a good guess. Also make sure the springs are captive.
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Postby [intrcool] » Tue Oct 19, 2004 11:22 am

the regulations state that the top and bottom of the springs must be in contact with the top and bottom boots. This does not mean they need to be solid and unable to move, just that they must touch.

my rear springs are only touching but can be moved.. getting that fixed this thursday.

i was able to get the top nut off using a vice grip around the shaft (put a cloth around it to avoid scratching or gouging) and a socket
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Postby kingcorolla » Tue Oct 19, 2004 5:22 pm

ahh, the joys of a live axle..

2 bolts and both rear springs are out :D
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Postby ants_ae92 » Thu Oct 21, 2004 8:57 am

intrcool, Make sure there are no scratches or gouges at all on the shock shaft, otherwise you will have a leaking shock afterwards. Easiest way would have been to take it down to the nearest workshop and get them to loosen it off with their air tools.
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Postby [intrcool] » Thu Oct 21, 2004 3:39 pm

yea, i used a cloth over it... altho, my front right has been making a squelching sound since 2 days ago... now im scared. 8O
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