oil/water feeds on turbo

[gt4mike]

The reason Castrol has "turbo tested" on their protec is because its about the cheapest oil that is good for use with turbos.

Castrols synthetic line also are tested with turbos - read the label on the back. All brands will recommend synthetic oils for high performance japanese engines, and although I dont have 40 years experience, I'd tend to believe what the oil companies recommend. Its also interesting that the Japanese performance companies, eg blitz, trust etc only offer synthetic oils.

In regards to it being to thin, my understanding is that synthetic oil was developed to help with the problem of mineral oil getting to thin and not handling high temp/load - so if anything at high temp it should be giving much superior protection.

I notice my car manual states gt4's were delivered from factory with mobil 1 and they warn against using mineral oils.... interesting

Turbo rebuilders suggesting mineral oils might be reusing bearings and seals and don't want the oil leaking out at idle.

[Bazda]

just got some new info from some engine builders, synthetic oils that are very very very good that lynn rodges said is a Motul v3000 i think it is, something like over $100 for 5 litres, and if u dont run the oil he wont build u an engine. and castrol rs is good as well, they say dont use mobil 1.

threfore GT4 20 does know his stuff

[anthonym]

just got some new info from some engine builders, synthetic oils that are very very very good that lynn rodges said is a Motul v3000 i think it is, something like over $100 for 5 litres, and if u dont run the oil he wont build u an engine. and castrol rs is good as well, they say dont use mobil 1.

threfore GT4 20 does know his stuff

That's interesting, I use Motul V300 ($25/L ) and can say it's a lot more viscous (thicker) cold than any other synthetic I have used. Not that that probably matters at operating temp. Turbo Vehicles also recommend 300V and I'd guess Mike Healy is the most experienced turbo tuner in the country.

The issue with turbo engines and oil is heat from the turbo, particularly on cool down (even with a turbo timer). Synthetics are a lot more more stable at higher temperatures and are less likely to "coke" the turbo bearings. Thus synthetics are recommended for turbo cars by manufacturers mainly because the oil change interval and turbo life are extended.

Another thing to consider is that there is quite a big difference between a full-on race engine and a standard engine, and the oil requirements are also quite different. Personally I would never run mineral oil though.

[gt4mike]

I'm running V300 at the moment too... it smells like bananas

[riddles]

So does anyone have any opinions on Amsoil 10W-30 Turbo Formulated Synthetic? http://www.amsoil.com/products/atm.html

[1598cc]

hey guys
having a delemor where i've gone through two turbos and not wanting to wreck my new t25.
when i first put them on they've gone from fine to quite smokey in not to much time at all, say a month.

there seems to be a lot of oil going through
- how much is enough?
- maybe not good enough oil? 15or20w50 i think

the water coolings set up off the heater pipes
should i have it T-off from the after the pump up bypass around the thermostat so it gets more flow and a little colder water?

one rb20det turbo one s4 rx7

any ideas would be greatly appreciated

cheers
Michael

I havnt read the whole post but:

anything over 60psi of pressure to the turbo shuld be restricted.
oil return goes back into the sump
i T'd my water fittings on the t25 off the pipes going through the thtottle body.
your oil pressure shouldbe around 40-60 when driving.

thats just a rough average for everything