GT4 ignitor and ciol issues

[chchvr4]

Hi guys, im asking this for my brother, his car is a 1990 gt4 now it has a stuffed ignitor and coil, after a bit of searching we have found a 2nd hand one for $300 for both.
Or there is toyota that want $900 for both.

Anyway is there any way to go after market we have had a quick look at the msd units but nowhere really knows if they will work or not.

Can anyone help or if anyone has done this before, and knows what to do please post below.

Cheers Shane

[vvega]

prolly wont work with a aftermarket one
they have a sync that hooks to the ecu
if it dont have a return signal it will fire a few times then stop

300 is reduculous
obsene even

some one here will have one for considerably less

i think i might
ive used a aw11 one before rewired and it worked fine

v

[chchvr4]

Yeah I just about told the guy to go ... but kept my composer.

hmmm In that case can someone confirm which ones fit and work.

Cheers Shane

[Malcolm]

I have an ignitor here that I no longer need and it works fine, $60 inc. postage and it's yours
also, you can get the coils brand new from repco, around $120 retail and $30 trade.
But....
are you sure it's the coil + ignitor? What is far more common is the leads, if he still has factory ones I'd say chances are 95% that it's them. Leads are around $90 a set for Eagle's on trade, although I believe genuine are reasonably cheap too.

[chchvr4]

Yeah he had AA check the car and the is no spark going to the dizzie and apparntly they couldnt tell if the coil was getting a signal from the ignitor

[kaizen]

I most as well jump into this now... as it's my car with the problems.

Basic run down...
Wouldn't start up, but starter turns fine.
AA guy said that it's a problem with the igniter or the coil assembly, with the price of these from Toyota, and the normal benefit of going aftermarket that was the decision.
So I've got a Mallory 6A unit (from JapRace).

Now today we went to check the engine codes, because the installation of the Mallory 6A unit didn't immediatly remedy the problem.
Now having problems pulling the codes. Used a length of wire and a paperclip (non-insulated) to jumper TE1 and E1. However the check engine light doesn't flash... it remains constantly on when the key is turned to ignition.

Fuses etc are all ok, and the EFI relay has even been replaced with a known good one just to check.
Any other ideas before we pull out the ECU to check that over??

Thanks,

Bevan
1990 ST185

[kaizen]

Ok...
It would seem that the check engine light isn't on all the time... I was having a bad moment and looking at the wrong light on the dash. The check engine light itself is never going. The bulb itself is fine, but the check engine light just never lights up.
It's supposed to light up when the key is set to ign right? (with all the other dash lights...)

[anthonym]

I wouldn't necessarily rely on what the AA said unless you are absolutely positive they isolated the fault as an ignition problem at a point prior to the distributor and are sure they did this properly. If not pull the cap off and check all is well with the contact points and rotor. I would check the fuel system as well if this hasn't already been done.

What you are doing to check the ECU codes sound correct, which would further suggest it's not a coil/ignitor problem.

Also as others have noted the ECU requires the stock coil and igniter to be in place, otherwise it won't run; I'm pretty sure you have to retain the stock coil even if you're using an aftermarket system.

[kaizen]

I'd be quite keen on sorting out the check engine light issue and then moving onto sorting out the ignition problem at the moment.

Any common reason for the check engine light to not light up apart from the bulb being blown?

What kind of signal does the ECU expect back from the igniter? If I knew what it expects, ie negative side of coil, or constant ground or constant 12V or positive tach signal etc then I could just mod up something to generate that and send back to the ECU.

I'm not worried so much about what the AA said... Just would like to get the codes from the car first... then see where the ECU thinks the problem is and sort it out from there.

Gotta get this working soon, it's a nice car to drive when it works

[anthonym]

Sorry my bad, the check engine light should flash when you bridge TE1 and E1 even if there are no faults stored. If you're not already, follow the proceedure here:

http://member.newsguy.com/~gtfour/techn ... iagnostics

[kaizen]

yeah, that's the problem... not flashing at all. Not turning on at all.
Does yours normally light up when you turn the key to ignition? (You know, along with all the other lights that light up...)

Mine doesn't... And doesn't flash when the TE1 E1 connection is made either. We've taken the ECU out and are trying to see whether it could be a dodgey transistor or something in the ECU.

I'm hoping that sorting out the check engine light will help shed some more knowledge onto what's causing the main non-starting problem.

I've found out what the IGF signal is supposed to be and have a circuit in my head to create that from what the igniter puts out. So when I do sort out everything else and get this ignition thing installed then that aspect should be sorted.

Really some help on the check engine light is all that's needed at the moment. I'm miffed as to why it's not working at all... More things to check would be great