Kerosene To Flush Engine?

[Ae92typeX]

Was surfing around on the net and came accross this discussion about flushing engine with kero.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=4052

for those to lazy to link, this is the procedure they use:

Kerosene engine flush...Step by step...

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (starting with a NEW oil filter is recomended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents.
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. You can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out untill it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favorite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until its at operating tempature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

This does a great job...

The residue that comes out should be quite black and a thin liquid...Chunks or sludge should be disolved...

Note:

those who use Quaker State oil may experiance chunks and or sludge when draining the system through out the procedure...This is typical of Quaker State oils...

Disclaimer:

I am not responsible for your intelligence, or lack there of....


Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on it?

[Ae92typeX]

also, at http://www.l-fp.com/articles/0304/deposits.html
found a opposed version:
Deposit removal.
There are several ways that deposits can be removed. Years ago, mechanics would add a pint of diesel fuel or kerosene to the crankcase of an engine. The common belief was that the diesel fuel or kerosene would dissolve the deposits and clean the engine. An experienced mechanic knew not to run the engine too long.

A few well-intentioned mechanics would flush the crankcase with fresh oil after the initial flush. Many engines were flushed with this method and many engines failed prematurely. There are several reasons why this technique is dangerous:

The hydrocarbons of the fuel act as a solvent to dissolve the deposits but they also will break down the thin film that separates the piston from the cylinder.
The increased heat that will occur will rapidly deplete the oil of its antiwar agents and friction reducers.
Many seals and gaskets will degrade when in contact with diesel fuel or kerosene.
The low molecular weight compounds found in diesel fuel and kerosene easily break down into free radicals and reactive compounds. ~The addition of diesel fuel or kerosene will reduce the operating viscosity of the oil.
When oil is drained from a system, there can be 5-40 percent residual oil. The residual oil will be tainted and quickly oxidized.

[rolla_fxgt]

Well i always used to use kero to clean the gears & chain on my dh bike with no problems, i cant see it really being a problem in an engine as long as you just let it idle the whole time & dont rev it. seems as though it
would take awihle & a fair bit of oil though, & like 2?3? filters. Seems fairly wasteful to me. Be easyier to run a full engine flush cycle or if you really wanted it clean to take the engine out & strip it all down & clean it that way. On most engines that are maintained fairly well there shouldnt be to much build up anyway.

[Ae92typeX]

yea, I used to use flush years ago, but in the last 5 or so years I have just done more regular oil changes, and not let the oil get to black between changes. my last few engines have been clean as internally. Just looking around at ideas. My mr2 4age is pretty gunky, thought I might try- im probably going to strip it down once ive finished the pannel work anyway.
Most engine flushes on the market have a high kero content...but this article is talking about much more volume of kero.

[rolla_fxgt]

Yeah i just did my sisters little 2e engined corolla for her & gave it a full flush, scary how much crap came out of that thing. But I do my 20v about every 5000 k's/6months, its black when it comes out, but is getting noticabley less black each change, so must be doing the trick.

Though some toyota engines i'd say you could probally just use kero/diesel instead of oil & they would probally run fairly okay for a fair while. Though i wouldnt recommend it.

[Akane]

Do not do these flushes, unless you intend to put a new engine in your car.

The latter post is true, the diesel / kerosene is too thin and will not lubricate your bearings enough, and they're talking about 5-10min idling....

a GSR that I know of did this flush, idle for 10 seconds, ended up with a new engine.

[NA Drifter]

by chance anyone know where to get cheaper kerosene? instate of a bottle(1.5L?) from the self for $8+?
is there any "pump" kerosene in nz?

[Fandango]

Do not do these flushes, unless you intend to put a new engine in your car.

The latter post is true, the diesel / kerosene is too thin and will not lubricate your bearings enough, and they're talking about 5-10min idling....

a GSR that I know of did this flush, idle for 10 seconds, ended up with a new engine.

Cant agree more, engine oil has a viscosity that is designed for the clearance/tolerance of your engine bearings, bushes, seals. The diesel or kero will not provide the 'EHD' film needed for bearing lubrication.

I did one of these flushes on my 20v, and guess what? It blew the big end very soon after...
Just wish I knew what I know now.

[Ae92typeX]

Yea, the more I read about it last night, the more it seemed an old practice not used much anymore- pehaps as cars have evolved into having smaller, or more precise tolerances. What about smaller volumes of kero though?, many flushes have a high kero content with other additives.
as above, im probably going to strip the engine down, so dont think I'll bother trying myself anyway, but interested in the discussion of it.

[evil_si]

iv done a few flushes using diesel, a cup of diesel in your old oil, for
10-20mins of engine running,
then change your oil and filter,
ive never had any trouble,
you can buy engine flushes from the likes of repco etc, not sure what they are made up of, just smells like kero thou,

[Akane]

Nothing beats a plain ol' engine oil change.

[evil_si]

yea you could always run a diesel engine oil for a week or so,
as they have detergent properties in them it will clean your engine also. probably the safest option

ive actually run diesel engine oil in a few of my cars because its always been available on tap were ive worked

[CozmoNz]

Nothing beats a plain ol' engine oil change.

couldnt agree more

[phatman3801]

would kero be any good for flushing a gearbox?? just a thought, if not what would be?

[Adamal]

Gearboxes don't need flushing. The reason people flush engines is because they buildup with carbon from the combustion, none of which happens within a gearbox.
Oil in a gearbox serves as a lubricant and cooler, not a cleaning agent

[OZ GTI]

Do not do these flushes, unless you intend to put a new engine in your car.

The latter post is true, the diesel / kerosene is too thin and will not lubricate your bearings enough, and they're talking about 5-10min idling....

a GSR that I know of did this flush, idle for 10 seconds, ended up with a new engine

I will also agree with this. although my mivec didnt need a new engine it jugged like a subaru boxer engine. I was rather worried and haven't tried it ever again

[Dell'Orto]

you can buy engine flushes from the likes of repco etc, not sure what they are made up of, just smells like kero thou,

I think its just petrol

[Adamal]

you can buy engine flushes from the likes of repco etc, not sure what they are made up of, just smells like kero thou,

I think its just petrol

Has detergents and other stuff in it as well. Definatly not just petrol, will get a slight froth to it if shaken.

Well, thats the STP engine flush anyway, which I recommend. Not for every flush, but about 1 in every 3.

[fivebob]

If you really want to flush your engine out without doing it harm, then I suggest refilling it with a high detergent oil designed for diesel engines. Get it up to temp, and drive for 10-20kms then drain and refill with your choice of oil. Won't remove everything in one go though, will take some extended running, or several change cycles to completely clean the engine.

Other than that just use a synthetic oil like Mobil-1, it also has a highish detergent content, though not as much as diesel oil, and will clean the deposits over time.