RedMist wrote:Seriously dude, if your going to risk someones life on your advice I suggest you get a clue.
Cutting springs isn't just going to affect spring rate. It alters the suspension geometry, bump steer, travel, scrub, camber caster toe.
Ever compressed a small spring like that in a pen, then let it go? It never bounces straight up and down! Car springs are somewhat similar, there is deflection if not held inih is why check by being captive! Even if the spring doesn't dislocate to the point where it doesnt evenly load the platform, its shock loading the platform every time it comes off by only a mm or so. Its only a matter of time before the platform or spring fails.
If you are really desperate to lower your car then I suggest you do it properly. Buy yourself susprog 3D, spend a few months learning to use it. Study for several years on suspension geometry. Then alter all your cars pickup points, rack mounts, tie rod length, springs and shocks.
Still by the time you have done that you'll have probably decided that a stock ride height is much better for performance, road holding and safety.
Unless you're on a very flat race track.
Which is why, with my rally car i have gone for standard heightish but with stiffer springs and shocks to suit

wasn't to expensive an option considering i could have gone for coil overs or something equally expensive for about the same prive per corner as my entire setup.
Still for shortened shocks, and matching your spring and shock rates a little research for what you are doing, what other people are using and what success they are having with it plus knowing what kind of driving style they have and how they like there car to respond then comparing it with your driving style and experimenting with your own car is the way to get the stup you desire without the nastys of bump steer, snap over steer mid corner under steer etc. And it's especially easy to get the setup close to right if your not dealing with road degredation and surface change throughout the day