What turbo,gen1 3SGTE 180-220kW@flywheel?

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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:35 pm

Well, my plan was (and still is) to use ST205 running gear in my ST165, but at the moment I can't really afford to spend 3000+ for complete engine from japan, when I spent about $1000 on existing one, the engine is very clean, quiet and no blow by/does not consume oil, so the plan was if I blew my ST165 motor, then I would buy ST205 unit.
Right now I'm running 205 box/diff and I/C, so thats about 50% running gear ;). And I think ST165 is a bit lighter than 205, thus it will have more agility.
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Postby SUBARUCONVERT » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:15 pm

Why dont u save another G and just buy a complete ST205 engine from japan, sounds more logical to me, and then u can sell ur good condidtion ST165 engine to me :wink: to off set the costs!
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:30 pm

this partly due to my bad money management, well I will have to pay 3g in front and wait 3-6 weeks for it, then obviously as being a second hand engine without any known history I will have to spend another 1g on replacing seals,cam belt, water pump, idler tensioners, redo my oil cooler setup (due to different mounting of oil filter), down pipe for it (if it does not come with stock cat), then I will have to rewire loom...
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Postby SUBARUCONVERT » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:52 pm

But to fit just a CT20B, u are going to spend 2G, even if u have to spend 4G to get a ST205 engine in there its a better chioce.
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Postby vvega » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:56 pm

not all st205's have steel ct20b's

if you dont car about that your better off just to get a gen3 mr2 motor and turbo loom and ecu

same thing

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Postby strx7 » Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:49 pm

All_Fours wrote:ask Al what throttle response is like with t-vis, a ceramic ct20b and a stock manifold, then double the goodness for the shorter and straighter gt-four intercooler piping tract :)


whats the HP potential of a ceramic CT20B and can it handle 20psi?
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Postby strx7 » Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:50 pm

is anyone running the factory type W to A I/C running after market efi systems so can tell me what their intake air temps are like?
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:55 pm

I don't believe in ceramic turbos, I believe in reliabilty of steel turbine.
Also my car already runs, I would rather keep it on road, if I have some minor turbo issues, why not to change just turbo, there is no point going on extensive engine swap route just to fix turbo problems? As I stated in heading, my horsepower goal is not 450hp (with ct26 lol), not even 350hp, just under 300Hp, I would be happy with 275Hp (at the flywheel) if the power is smooth and wide, this is not a drag machine I'm building here.It will be just for hill climbs and other events similar to that. I want to make it as much relaible as possible within the budget. I don't really care what et it would do on the strip....
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Postby Al » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:03 pm

strx7 wrote:whats the HP potential of a ceramic CT20B and can it handle 20psi?


Mine did several times, mostly 18psi though. It died when an oil seal let go however. Ceramic turbine was still top notch :)

Highest output ct20b has been 317rwhp @ 20psi.
Last edited by Al on Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:04 pm

I don't run aftermarket EFI, but my setup is:
ST205 W/A I/C with stock ST165 ecu, with stock cracked wastegate CT26, with cracked/warped manifold, running wavy 0.72bar boost (Blitz EBC), I get:
cruising with ~25'C outside, 30-35'C inlet
boosting hard with ~25'C outside, 40-45'C inlet
traffic < 5kph ~25'C outside, 45-50'C.
traffic > 5kph ~25'C outside, 40-45'C
boosting hard @ ~10'C out, 25-30'C inlet (can't really boost hard at that sort of temperature, even with 0.6bar set I get random boost cuts).

I have Legacy i/c radiator with temp/manual switched 10" fan. Also I have an ugly hole in my bonnet and 10% of I/C is outside. Water pump running full time also have a secondary pump activating with fan.
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Postby SUBARUCONVERT » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:09 pm

Still a 2 grand turbo swap isnt expensive?
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:26 pm

How much do you think the new aftermarket turbo would cost with all the manifolds made up and down pipe? Also many aftermarket turbos don't come with internal wastegates, another waste of money in my opinion.
I bet it would cost more then 2g.
I don't want a second hand as I have one, and it is not very good.
The chances are that if I would put an aftermarket turbo it would be like a cat in the bag, will know the result only after I fit it in. And what if I will get one of those 300hp turbos and end up with completly different result I was aiming for?
With CT20B there are people here who had pretty good results, also Toyota spent millions on developing this turbo for similar engine, to produce similar power that I'm aiming for...
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Postby vvega » Thu Mar 16, 2006 2:00 am

strx7 wrote:is anyone running the factory type W to A I/C running after market efi systems so can tell me what their intake air temps are like?


i boiled the stock intercoller in about 5 mins of "test " driving
running 15 psi

the ne system dosent even get walrm....
though i am running 2x legacy radiators and a gt4 pump

ive tried a front mount but the lag increased 10 fold and IMO wasent worth the effort

though i might tri a V mounted one yet :D
that could be better

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Postby strx7 » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:49 am

275 HP is a bog std GT-T engine without a cat convertor............
alot newer set up allround
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Postby sergei » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:58 am

It will be a bit of pain to install caldina engine into celica due to completely different wiring, also it comes with monoblock turbo, with factory standard warped manifold/housing, also it will be a lot harder to use W/A I/C as the throttle comes on very different angle, I'm sure there are other technical difficulties that make this sort of project not worth it, and don't forget GTT engines are not cheap to start with.
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Postby strx7 » Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:46 pm

$2500 + gst isn't exactly expensive for a complete engine with ECU and loom...................
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