10w60 in 4agze / competition use

[beeker]

Any problem in running a 10w60 in a 4agze ? I'm just concerned the hot temp 60 thickness could be too thick for it. It's in a targa car, so it'll get a hiding. Its Castrol Formula R - Full Sync'

thoughts ?

[NA Drifter]

well, I have tried 25W 60 Valvoline racing oil in a 4age 16v... no problem..

[sergei]

I'm using it in 220000kms 20v which sees 9000rpms (not that often anymore),very great oil, engine is quieter with it. BTW that is the only oil it is not burning on high rpms..

[beeker]

My concern is that the hot - thickness (60) might be putting additional pressure on the engine and wearing the engine prematurely? Any engine guru's out there ?

[ollieboy]

My concern is that the hot - thickness (60) might be putting additional pressure on the engine and wearing the engine prematurely? Any engine guru's out there ?

I was told when my old mitsi burnt oil and the only way to fix it was to put thicker oil in that the engine wear will be minor and effects probably won't show up until a few owners down the line.

I'm no mechanic though so take that just as my story. It worked for me, might not for you.

[sergei]

thicker oil will not increase wear, as long as it is making film on the part it will be protecting it. in fact too thin oil might do more damage (too thin film, splater easily).. The only big draw back of thick oil, is that it too vsicous and increased drag (loosing minor HP?).

[fuel]

The Castrol Formula R is a good oil, and the 10W60 semi-synthetic will do a good job protecting your engine.

The 60 weight will offer benefits like:

greater bearing protection and lubrication at higher revs
reduced oil consumption
higher oil pressure


it may come with disadvantages like:

higher oil temperatures (as oil pump has to pump harder to get the same amount of oil around the engine as a thinner grade)
too high oil pressure
increased fuel consumption (talking like 1~2% here)

It is a good oil though, ideally it's suited to the older 80s Jags and Beamers which specifiy to use 10W60 from the factory. I personally would go for good 5W40/10W40 or even a 15W50 myself.

[sergei]

in NZ first number before W does not mean anything. It only start matter in near freezing situations. Try to start a car with 25W50 when it is like -20'C, it would not (or if it was a japanese it would start and then ran the bearning as the oil was gelified and not liquid enough to be picked up)... What we used to do is place gas torch under the sump, fill cooling system with boiling water. BTW in winter many people would remove front radiators and just run a bypass pipe instead, the only cooling was provided by heater which was running all the time. Some of the cars actually had a gasoline burner to heat inside the car, synthetic diesel was a disaster, people running synthetic diesel had to put preheater in the tank to keep it from turning into gel. To get into the car in the morning, people have to spend 20 min from removing snow and frost off the car, locks would be frozen so hot water was used extensivly, to leave car overnight with the hand brake is a NO NO, it would freeze, and make driving problematic. The battery had to be taken every night inside, battery has to be atleas 60Ah other wise it would not crank, in comparison normal battery (NS40L) is about 35Ah.

[fuel]

in NZ first number before W does not mean anything.

Haha sure maybe in Auckland it means nothing, but beleive it or not there are other places in NZ which reach below -10C (shock horror!). Where I'm based in the Ruapehu region it gets down to -5C alone, and that's in the middle of the north island. It gets much colder down south.

In the winter a 15Wxx oil is a must, preferably a 10Wxx or less for maximum cold start protection.

[rolla_fxgt]

i always use 10w40 in my ae101 fxgt, just cause i live in dunedin & quite often take my car skiing, & in central otago winters, -10c isnt that uncommon.