what parts to build the ultimate 4agze

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

what parts to build the ultimate 4agze

Postby soopachargen » Mon May 22, 2006 7:22 pm

I'm contemplating building a better gze using toyota parts. What would you consider to be the best combination of factory toyota parts to make up a tough street 4agze
    Must be 1.6litre
    must use a toyota block
    must use toyota pistons and rods
    must use a toyota head
    must use an sc14
    must use under $1500 worth of computer
    must run on 95 octane
    must fit in an ae9* engine bay


So far im thinking along the lines of

silvertop block
8.5:1 gze pistons
ae92 rods
silvertop head with the throttle body manifold and a custom plenum attached to this
sc14 blower
link computer
standard boost or oversized crank pulley boost with compression added through head milling to get a good balance of boost and compression.

Anyone else care to add their opinion and recipe??
When in doubt, down and out.

"This is the Internet, it has no sympathy and shows no mercy. It feeds on weakness and preys on sensitivity. It will e-kill you at the first opportunity. Be brave or be e-dead." - NZHONDAS
User avatar
soopachargen
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1598
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 1:54 pm
Location: Silverdale

Postby bluemaumau » Mon May 22, 2006 7:25 pm

not an expert on this but i thought the redtop block was good cause of the oil squirters, someone please shoot me ...........
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
User avatar
bluemaumau
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4087
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 7:08 pm
Location: SYDNEY, NSW

Postby soopachargen » Mon May 22, 2006 7:27 pm

i believe the silvertop block has the squirters etc like the ae101 gze... and logic leads me to believe that a silvertop block would be cheaper than a gze one
When in doubt, down and out.

"This is the Internet, it has no sympathy and shows no mercy. It feeds on weakness and preys on sensitivity. It will e-kill you at the first opportunity. Be brave or be e-dead." - NZHONDAS
User avatar
soopachargen
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1598
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 1:54 pm
Location: Silverdale

Postby no_8wire » Mon May 22, 2006 7:40 pm

how about a megasquirt instead of link? Link doesnt run feedback apparently..eg 02 sensor
User avatar
no_8wire
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2268
Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 7:30 pm

Postby soopachargen » Mon May 22, 2006 7:47 pm

link has more support, i like the idea of being able to send it back if i have a problem with it and having all the knowledge around. And there is supposed to be a guy in warkworth who tunes them well.
When in doubt, down and out.

"This is the Internet, it has no sympathy and shows no mercy. It feeds on weakness and preys on sensitivity. It will e-kill you at the first opportunity. Be brave or be e-dead." - NZHONDAS
User avatar
soopachargen
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1598
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 1:54 pm
Location: Silverdale

Postby RedMist » Mon May 22, 2006 9:07 pm

no_8wire wrote:how about a megasquirt instead of link? Link doesnt run feedback apparently..eg 02 sensor


You mean closed loop fuel control? Even the most basic LEM does. The LEM however doesnt have knock control. The plus has hardware for knock detection, and would presume it has software for closed loop ignition control.
I think you'll find considerably more inputs and outputs in the plus, especially the G2, than the megasquirt. That may change dependant on how the megasquirt v3 board space is eventually populated. But for now the link, IMO, is a considerably better option.
The answer is Helmholtz!

Toyota ST185 Celica Rally.
Toyota ST205 Celica Rally.
Jimco/ Cosworth 350z Offroader - 609whp at 16psi
User avatar
RedMist
Old Skool User!
 
Posts: 3078
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 12:39 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby Caveman » Mon May 22, 2006 10:39 pm

That all sounds pretty good

Silvertop block
8.9:1 ze pistons
smallport rods
bigger crank
silvertop head
custom plenum
itb's
sc14 before the tb's
higher boost pully
E58 lsd box
link ecu
440cc injectors (3sgte should fit nicely)
full regrind and rebuild

that would be my dream car 8)
User avatar
Caveman
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1918
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:20 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby no_8wire » Mon May 22, 2006 10:42 pm

RedMist wrote:
no_8wire wrote:how about a megasquirt instead of link? Link doesnt run feedback apparently..eg 02 sensor


You mean closed loop fuel control? Even the most basic LEM does. The LEM however doesnt have knock control. The plus has hardware for knock detection, and would presume it has software for closed loop ignition control.
I think you'll find considerably more inputs and outputs in the plus, especially the G2, than the megasquirt. That may change dependant on how the megasquirt v3 board space is eventually populated. But for now the link, IMO, is a considerably better option.

Oh...well not according to the guy that I spoke to...and he sells them for a living...

Said all the ones hes tuned/ setup havent had the provision for them.
But hey he just sells and tunes them, what would he know
User avatar
no_8wire
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2268
Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 7:30 pm

Postby strx7 » Mon May 22, 2006 11:14 pm

a properly tuned system doesn't need closed loop O2 anyway. its about getting off ones @rse and spending some time to tune the crusing & around town zones, not difficult.
strx7
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3707
Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 12:06 am
Location: Tauranga

Postby Lloyd » Mon May 22, 2006 11:26 pm

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine- ... ire-In/LEM

Paying special note in the features to "Configurable closed loop narrow band lambda control."
User avatar
Lloyd
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 6195
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 1:50 pm
Location: Dunedin

Postby matt dunn » Mon May 22, 2006 11:30 pm

no_8wire wrote:Oh...well not according to the guy that I spoke to...and he sells them for a living...

Said all the ones hes tuned/ setup havent had the provision for them.
But hey he just sells and tunes them, what would he know


Maybe not a lot then.

I run my old V3 link lem ( 1999 model ) and hooked up a new narrow band oxy sensor and let it self tune the entire program at the track.

Run it like that for a year and no problems, so proof that they have o2 input and it works.

Ask him what the white wire in all the link ECU's labelled O2 if for?

Matt
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
matt dunn
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 7109
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Timaru

Re: what parts to build the ultimate 4agze

Postby crnkin » Mon May 22, 2006 11:48 pm

soopachargen wrote:
silvertop block
8.5:1 gze pistons
ae92 rods
silvertop head with the throttle body manifold and a custom plenum attached to this
sc14 blower
link computer
standard boost or oversized crank pulley boost with compression added through head milling to get a good balance of boost and compression.



Number 1, you cant get stock 8.5:1 toyota gze pistons, either 8.9:1 or 8.0:1 but thats a minor issuse.

Number 2, whats your budget? Do you already have the sc14? I know of a guy in the states who developed a kit using a twin screw supercharger similar in size to the sc14 but more efficient, which produces around about 400 rwhp on a bigish pulley (21psi)

number 3. Ae92 rods: out of what engine? there were 4 types of rods produced in ae92 4ages

A silvertop block is just as good as a redtop smallport as they are the same down to the oil squirters

If you have some time to play and can work with simple electronics id go megaquirt, there is nothing cooler i reckon than building something for your car and knowing you did it yourself, plus it has HEAPS of support, if not more than link, as you can just download updates at anytime, and people share maps online of everything.

But just my opinion :)

About that guy who tunes links no8_wire... Id never take anything to him if he cant even utilise closed loop on a link.... plus if hes calling it feedback... sounds like hes been smoking way too much P, and i actually mean it
kenny - "yours: 0hp @ 0rpm :D"
deaf_homo "currrently yes"

PLEASE get moderators to fight your fights for you if you are a cock master
User avatar
crnkin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1552
Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:48 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby bluemaumau » Mon May 22, 2006 11:52 pm

1998 wrote:That all sounds pretty good

Silvertop block
8.9:1 ze pistons
smallport rods
bigger crank
silvertop head
custom plenum
itb's
sc14 before the tb's
higher boost pully
E58 lsd box
link ecu
440cc injectors (3sgte should fit nicely)
full regrind and rebuild

that would be my dream car 8)


<*x*> *gizm*
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
User avatar
bluemaumau
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4087
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 7:08 pm
Location: SYDNEY, NSW

Re: what parts to build the ultimate 4agze

Postby FXGTV » Tue May 23, 2006 2:24 am

crnkin wrote:

A silvertop block is just as good as a redtop smallport as they are the same down to the oil squirters





Isnt a gze block diff from a n/a smallport? Means the gze can handle the sc. So wouldn't a silvertop block not be able to handle the extra stress of an sc14 being that silvertops are factory n/a.
Im a mechanical n00b by the way, so this might be a long shot :lol:
1988 r31 TI Skyline.
1982 ra60 Celica (my Aussie Toyota and axle stand warrior).
ex: 1991 Corolla, 1989 fxgt-v, 1985 aw11. 1992 sw20 gt-s. 2002 glxi Lancer wagon (work hack)
next car - another a-dub please!
User avatar
FXGTV
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1703
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 7:57 pm
Location: Brisbane

Re: what parts to build the ultimate 4agze

Postby soopachargen » Tue May 23, 2006 9:25 am

crnkin wrote:
soopachargen wrote:
silvertop block
8.5:1 gze pistons
ae92 rods
silvertop head with the throttle body manifold and a custom plenum attached to this
sc14 blower
link computer
standard boost or oversized crank pulley boost with compression added through head milling to get a good balance of boost and compression.



Number 1, you cant get stock 8.5:1 toyota gze pistons, either 8.9:1 or 8.0:1 but thats a minor issuse.

Number 2, whats your budget? Do you already have the sc14? I know of a guy in the states who developed a kit using a twin screw supercharger similar in size to the sc14 but more efficient, which produces around about 400 rwhp on a bigish pulley (21psi)

number 3. Ae92 rods: out of what engine? there were 4 types of rods produced in ae92 4ages

A silvertop block is just as good as a redtop smallport as they are the same down to the oil squirters

If you have some time to play and can work with simple electronics id go megaquirt, there is nothing cooler i reckon than building something for your car and knowing you did it yourself, plus it has HEAPS of support, if not more than link, as you can just download updates at anytime, and people share maps online of everything.

But just my opinion :)

About that guy who tunes links no8_wire... Id never take anything to him if he cant even utilise closed loop on a link.... plus if hes calling it feedback... sounds like hes been smoking way too much P, and i actually mean it


Number 1... thanks for correcting me... i'm feeling the more compression the better...

Number 2... Im using toyota parts to keep it to a low budget build, if i went custom this and forged that the price would quickly get out of control. I'm already running an sc14 on my gze...

Number 3... by ae92 rods i meant reuse my afm gze rods or the ones from the tvis redtop i have sitting around

1998, i would run a big single before the charger with a water to air cooler sitting on top of the motor, iv gone from standard top mount to big front mount and prefer the throttle response of the short plumbing. The throttle before the charger works so im happy with it, and it means i dont have to worry about a BOV.

I've been told i may be better off getting an aftermarket LSD for my E52 rather than some used e58 box. Then i can rebuild my box and put the good diff in it knowing that it will all work.
When in doubt, down and out.

"This is the Internet, it has no sympathy and shows no mercy. It feeds on weakness and preys on sensitivity. It will e-kill you at the first opportunity. Be brave or be e-dead." - NZHONDAS
User avatar
soopachargen
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1598
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 1:54 pm
Location: Silverdale

Postby crnkin » Tue May 23, 2006 12:10 pm

ahhh sweet.

The tvis redtop rods are exactly the same as the GZE ones, with the exception of a small notch out of them at the big end of them on each side. With a polish and shot peen theyd be mint for this application.
And high compression rocks :)
kenny - "yours: 0hp @ 0rpm :D"
deaf_homo "currrently yes"

PLEASE get moderators to fight your fights for you if you are a cock master
User avatar
crnkin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1552
Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:48 pm
Location: Auckland

Re: what parts to build the ultimate 4agze

Postby Caveman » Tue May 23, 2006 6:19 pm

1998, i would run a big single before the charger with a water to air cooler sitting on top of the motor, iv gone from standard top mount to big front mount and prefer the throttle response of the short plumbing. The throttle before the charger works so im happy with it, and it means i dont have to worry about a BOV.

In that case it is very worth while running a tubular intake manifold with even lengths as the stock 4agze intake manifold is a joke.

Easy power to make.
User avatar
Caveman
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1918
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:20 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby RedMist » Tue May 23, 2006 7:09 pm

no_8wire wrote:
RedMist wrote:
no_8wire wrote:how about a megasquirt instead of link? Link doesnt run feedback apparently..eg 02 sensor


You mean closed loop fuel control? Even the most basic LEM does. The LEM however doesnt have knock control. The plus has hardware for knock detection, and would presume it has software for closed loop ignition control.
I think you'll find considerably more inputs and outputs in the plus, especially the G2, than the megasquirt. That may change dependant on how the megasquirt v3 board space is eventually populated. But for now the link, IMO, is a considerably better option.

Oh...well not according to the guy that I spoke to...and he sells them for a living...

Said all the ones hes tuned/ setup havent had the provision for them.
But hey he just sells and tunes them, what would he know


I dont think I would take my car to him. Although I dont use closed loop I've been logging O2 data from the Link to my PDA for some years. I've also run closed loop on one of my 20 valves. Its actually not a bad system. Has limits to ensure that a faulty sensor doesnt totally screw your map, and allows you to bypass those limits by doing a simple save.

Megasquirt is a very good basic system. I guess I'm a little pissed that the UMS didnt come out in 2003 when it was first scheduled. its also the fact that I've been playing with Link ECU's for years so am familiar with them. Also the software is stupidly easy to configure.

If you are a little more electronically minded the Genboard is a stupendously feature rich board but not for the timid.

In regards to compression. I ran an SC12 on a stock bluetop thats now Revheads car. Never heard the slightest pink from her and it was a reasonably quick wee AW11. Still that was stock boost.
The answer is Helmholtz!

Toyota ST185 Celica Rally.
Toyota ST205 Celica Rally.
Jimco/ Cosworth 350z Offroader - 609whp at 16psi
User avatar
RedMist
Old Skool User!
 
Posts: 3078
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 12:39 pm
Location: Christchurch


Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 6 guests