CT20b into ST165

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CT20b into ST165

Postby sergei » Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:48 pm

You will need:
ST185 exhaust manifold (new one from Mr Revhead (Warwick) has very reasonable price). You can get aftermarket one but beware of chinese stuff, if it looks good it does not mean it will work well of even fit. Other option is custom made. With W/A is best to get genuine item (as it will fit best).
ST205 turbo exhaust gaskets ( 4 bolt one which goes between turbo and exhaust manifold and 7 bolt one for down pipe).
ST205 down pipe. If it is aftermarket one make sure it has got plenty of room for wastegate flow. I never tried on genuine item so I don't know if it will fit.
Optional (but recommended) items: ST165 turbo oil supply gaskets (again - Mr Revhead is the man). New exhaust manifold gaskets. New down pipe to exhaust gasket. Have recoil kit (M10x1.25mm) handy - I can guartee you will a few stripped stud threads in the head.

Grinder is a must.

You don't really need new oil lines, as it can be very difficult to use 185 lines - due to oil cooler issue - there is water to oil cooler just behind turbo, it is held by 2 big banjo bolts, this oil cooler supplies the whole engine including the turbo with oil. The problem is as far as I'm aware ST185 does not have those holes and provisions to bypass that cooler. What I've done is:
I used the 165 oil and water lines.
Water lines are very easy to "modify" - cut the block side one so it would not interfere with turbo waste gate actuator and just run a hose with clamp to turbo water line (wich will have to be bend slighlty to accomodate different turbo position). You will have to cut the water line which goes arround the block parallel to fatter water line which goes to radiator elbow to make room for waste gate actuator.
I've cut and bent the oil return line, used ~10cm of rubber hose and ~5cm metal pipe to fit the new position of the turbo (I used old rubber elbow because I had american hose which did not like to bend without kinks).
Don't do this:
Initially I bent oil supply line and cuttoff support bracket (made new one out of 3sfe throttle body support bracket) from return line, I used butane torch to heat up the line and bend it by hand with minimal squish, but after 1000km it cracked on me and pissed all over the oil.
This is a better way to deal with oil supply line:
So I have cutt off the oil feed line completely threaded the stumps to internal 1/8 NPT (why GSS does not sell metric stuff???) used oil fitting and braided hose to make a new line. This actually was a good thing - made removal of turbo much easier - line being flexible. Basically my custom oil feed line goes from turbo oil flange (real tight fit of the oil connector - use 90 degree ones - due to interference from oil return pipe) to the flange wich bolts on to bango alloy hose (I did not touch that hose).
Other major issue would be the clearance between waste gate flap lever and oil supply bolt. I had to grind that a little bit (~ 3 mm on the angle) - be very carefull, make sure the bolt is tight and make sure you dont grind too much. I am using ST205 intercooler as well, which adds a few other problems. Obviously you will need new down pipe. And stock inlet piping might not fit with new position of the turbo (although I might be wrong, I can tell because the first mod was chucking the stock inlet piping into bin and relocating battery). If you use remote oil filter adapter - this might be issue as because of the new position of the turbo you have very little room left and some of the adaptors will not fit. I'm using 50% custom made adapter.
Next time when I pop to evil_si (my car is there, getting external done, due to overboost problem) I will take pictures (if I don't forget)...

P.S. I will edit it into more apporpriate guide form when I get pics done.
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sergei
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