mister2 wrote:The only way you will be able to tell if cyl 2&3 are lean (er than 1&4) is with individual EGT probes. I would cross that bridge when you come to it. To be honest leaning out a little isn't what breaks ring lands, that is detonation - but anyway if you really got keen and found that there was bad cylinder distribution you could always use the two drives of the LEM and trim them out.
How does the WRC antilag gear work? Is there much point in using that style of system? Is it even compatible with the Link stuff? The Link antilag works on the principle of diverting more air through the motor (either through throttle stop [Group N] or bypass valve [Group A]) and retarding timing, not injecting air and fuel into the exhaust manifold like it sounds the WRC stuff does.
Cheers
Nick
I didnt realize that you could trim each injector driver on the G3. Fantastic. Sounds as if the I dont need the plus afterall.... unless I use that second driver for water injection....
I'm apparently running pre 96 (in a 97 car). The regs havent been released yet so in all honesty I dont know what antilag I can get away with. I have been told that I have to dump my 4 pot front brakes, but I digress. The WRC antilag gear, from my understanding, uses a bypass valve just before the IC to redirect air directly into the exhaust manifold via individual stainless runners. I'm to recieve a WRC exhaust manifold and hopefully the associated vavles and ducting, I'll be able to answer more once I recieve said gear. It should be a matter of running a 12 v trigger to trigger the VSV. Would a MAP trigger do it?... you and I need to talk. Will call you on your return to work.
