1j Soarer Question

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1j Soarer Question

Postby Darola_Sera2c » Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:58 pm

Hey there all, just a quick question before i start on another project....


my missus has a gz20 Soarer with the 1ggte auto,

how much better will the 1j with auto go in the car??? she loves the power of the 1g but wants more and wants to make sure its worth the money to do the conversion....

i know it will go good in the car, but how good? what kind of power?

any remarks would be great

thanks

Eddie
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Postby UTERUS » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:11 am

Is the soarer standard at the moment?
If not then do these mods,

High flow air filter
3 inch cat back exhaust
Install a electronic boost controller and dial up 14psi

That should get you 160rwkw

If you want more then i would go for a bigger single turbo which the 1ggte responds well to.

If it is more torque that you are after then by all means go for the 1jz.
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Postby Darola_Sera2c » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:14 am

Hey there mate...

all those mods have been done to the 1g

what single turbo would you recommend to go on, but leave std computer or maybe add a piggyback

thanks
Ed
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Postby UTERUS » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:40 am

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 449717.htm

One of those will work nicely with the 1g.

GX71 i've driven with said turbo on it isn't what i would call laggy and it isn't short on power.

Are you doing the fab work or paying someone to do it?
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Postby Darola_Sera2c » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:54 am

hey mate, thanks for your help so far...

im a mechanic by trade so i do everything for the cars...

she has $4-5g to spend on her, i can put a factory 1j in for that from a jza70 ive been told bolts right in, was going to run stock with 1j auto as well and putting lsd diff in...

or we could go the single turbo setup, but i just dont know what would be the best setup and run on std comp with maybe adding a piggyback

ed
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Postby spencer » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:03 am

Go for the 1j on stock twins most seem to make around 170kw at the wheels. With twin dumps exhaust and intake most make over 200kw. Should be able to pick one up for around $1000 to $1500 which should leave you heaps left over for exhaust, lsd cert etc. I strongly reccomend you pull off some of the plumbing and check the play on the CT12a's before buying. Bought two now both around 100km and both had one turbo that had almost enough play to touch the sides with oil everywhere
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Postby Silent Knight » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:08 am

Yea do yourself a favor and please don't spend any money on a 1G as suggested above. You'll end up spending a shitload and have minimal gain to show for it at the end.

Get a 1J and throw that in there and spend some money on it. They have a fair bit of granted out of the box and you can extract lots of power fairly easy from them as well.

I don't get why anyone would spend money on a 1G when there is such a thing as a 1J... :roll:
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Postby Adydas » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:16 am

Also why the obsession with standard ECU? how can you have a quest for power but restrict the most important part of it?
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Postby Silent Knight » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:19 am

Adydas wrote:Also why the obsession with standard ECU? how can you have a quest for power but restrict the most important part of it?


Kevin still runs a standard ECU in his 400rwkw Supra...
Think he's just got an Air/Fuel controller. :wink:
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Postby Adydas » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:42 am

im not saying you cant, its just weird like

" i want to become superman, but i dont actually want to change anything about my self at all "... It just sounds like if a wicked aftermarket ECU came up for cheap as chips it wouldnt be considerd in the slightest.

I guess im trying to find out if theres a reason other than money to avoid changing.

I guess my change of ECU was also partly drove by wanting to remove the AFM, but supporting fuel etc is also a priority.
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Postby postfach » Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:55 am

Darola_Sera2c wrote:i can put a factory 1j in for that from a jza70 ive been told bolts right in, was going to run stock with 1j auto as well and putting lsd diff in..


Yes it bolts straight in but ONLY if you have an 89+ crossmember, trust me i know this, i have an MZ20 with a 1jz in it. Mine makes 234rwkw with basic mods.

Silent Knight wrote:Kevin still runs a standard ECU in his 400rwkw Supra...
Think he's just got an Air/Fuel controller. Wink


yeah and he has shit loads of problems with it.... aftermarket ecu is the ONLY way to make good, reliable power
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Postby Silent Knight » Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:14 am

Yea I'm not contesting the fact that an after market ECU is in any way a bad thing. Hell I'll be using as well shortly...

Just bringing across the point that it's not always on top every ones priority list. If you can make good power etc without one then why not? Not everyone has 1.2 - 1.5K to spend on an ECU. Then what ever it costs to properly get wired in if it's not a plug in unit. And then the cost of a couple of hours on the dyno to get tuned...
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Postby Mr.Phreak » Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:47 am

Adydas wrote:Also why the obsession with standard ECU? how can you have a quest for power but restrict the most important part of it?

It makes modifying in Oz much easier (Unless the cars not being run through the engineering process....)

I'd go for the JZ swap too
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Postby the fallen303 » Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:57 pm

the jz ecu is more than capable of handling up to 250rwkw, both me and postfach are not far off that with not a lot done to our cars. thats more than enough to have a shit load of fun with. if you're after big power, then by all means, the aftermarket is the way to go, but everything has it's limitations. if your after a car to have fun in and not a number puncher, then don't bother with the ecu, it will cause more headaches than it's worth.

1j, auto, lsd, breathing, watch the turbo's, and your done.
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Postby Darola_Sera2c » Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:48 am

hey all,
thanks heaps for all ya comments and help we have decided to go the 1j as i have seen no point with the 1g i can get a half cut for around $3000
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Postby spencer » Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:09 am

I wouldnt worry about a half cut unless its from the same type of car you own so it all plugs in (which doesnt apply to you). my engine and box with uncut loom and all bolt ons was $1000, you dont realy want to pay more than $1500 for a 1j
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Postby Darola_Sera2c » Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:22 am

hey there..

things are still cheaper for you guys over there, im in Sydney Australia where they like to put a price on import stuff, it sucks

lol, thanks for all your help ppl's

Ed
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Postby spencer » Thu Jan 18, 2007 7:00 am

true sorry didnt look at your location! Yea half cut seems to be the way over there
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