4agze ecu question

[method]

Hey have a question related to pin 15 on the Z connector.
http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech ... 0AE92a.htm
Its a Diagnostic connector according to the club 4age and has the symbol TE1
Whats the significance of this one?
Is this the one that will make the ecu flash me a fault code if i earth it out?

Also on the wiring diagram for the GZE ignitor you have the two coloured wires (black- yellow (IGF) and black - red(IGD) ) and the two black wires (IGT) which are common but there is a fat Black orange comming off the plug too. Is that the 12V Source for the igniter?
Sorry, just checking. I want to be 100% sure and am triple checking everything

Apart from that i think shes nearly ready to start! I just hope i have my coil packs around the right way

Also, anyone know if the ECU will be kept happy if i mount the knock sensor under the dash somewhere? Or does it need 'normal' engine noise to keep the ECU happy?

Cheers
Simon

[matt dunn]

Its a Diagnostic connector according to the club 4age and has the symbol TE1
Whats the significance of this one?
Is this the one that will make the ecu flash me a fault code if i earth it out?

Yes TE1 is the normal old T terminal. Later ones had a TE2 also. This TE2 allow live data from the ECU is you have a scan tool.
TE1 is the one to earth for fault codes.

Also on the wiring diagram for the GZE ignitor you have the two coloured wires (black- yellow (IGF) and black - red(IGD) ) and the two black wires (IGT) which are common but there is a fat Black orange comming off the plug too. Is that the 12V Source for the igniter?

Black and Orange on a toyota means power supply key switched, so powers the coil. igniter sometimes the injectors/injector resistors.
IGT is the signal To the igniter to say fire
IGF is the signal From the igniter
and I think IGD tells the igniter which coil to fire

Apart from that i think shes nearly ready to start! I just hope i have my coil packs around the right way

Also, anyone know if the ECU will be kept happy if i mount the knock sensor under the dash somewhere? Or does it need 'normal' engine noise to keep the ECU happy?

I tried that on a GT4, and it needed a certain amount of noise to tell the ECU that the knock sensor works.

Cheers
Matt

[method]

Cheers for that!

[method]

Also on the wiring diagram for the GZE ignitor you have the two coloured wires (black- yellow (IGF) and black - red(IGD) ) and the two black wires (IGT) which are common but there is a fat Black orange comming off the plug too. Is that the 12V Source for the igniter?

Black and Orange on a toyota means power supply key switched, so powers the coil. igniter sometimes the injectors/injector resistors.
IGT is the signal To the igniter to say fire
IGF is the signal From the igniter
and I think IGD tells the igniter which coil to fire


Cheers
Matt

Hey Matt, off the ignitor you have the IGF, IGD and two black wires
Once of the black wires goes to IGT and the other ive been told is the tach signal.

I seem to be getting no spark
ECU is throwing error code 12, cant figure out what could be wrong.

Code: Select all

    * Open, short in G or NE circuit.
    * Distributor
    * ECU

I accidentally had the black tach signal hooked up to IGT as well as the IGT wire, hopefully it didn't damage the ecu? Both wires were black so thought they were common!!

The NE and G circuit looks ok and is defiantly wired up properly (used factory wires from ecu plug to cas plug. Could the Cas be broken?

However seeing as there is no spark its probably the igniter right?

[matt dunn]

Clear the code, make sure it is gone before you crank over the car,

then try starting and see what code comes back.

If you get the CAS fault code it will be in the CAS circuit.

toyota's dont usually throw those codes up unless there is or has been a problem.

CAS do fail at times,

[method]

Sweet, cleared the code, made sure it was clear then cranked it over, threw up 12 again.

I want to check the CAS to make sure its not that, be great if someone had a spare one i could quickly borrow?

Chances of ignitors breaking are pretty slim arn't they? In saying that i havn't really heard of any mechanical toyota CAS breaking either.

Be great if i could try my ECU and ignitor in a running 4agze too if the CAS isn't indeed the problem.

Cheers
Simon

[matt dunn]

CAS is the same as a dist on the inside and give heaps of trouble,

never ever seen a faulty toyota external igniter yet.