cold air box restrictions

[bluemaumau]

soo since the engine will never go ive decided to keep modifying it

it already had a pod with a rangi cold air feed, but i want to improve this , and cash in on free hp(cold air)

so ive got some sheet metal and i was planning creating a box around the pod, with a piece of steel tube running thru the inner gaurd, to some sort of belmouth type thingy under the bumper.(still under design)

my question:
since im going to try and make the thing as air tight as possible(bar the feed) (welding, silicone joiners etc) does it matter how big the box is around the pod?

at my current thinking it will have about 2cm clearnce on each side/edge of the pod, and a 2" feeed from the bumper. does anyone think or even better know, if the box being smaller or larger will have an effect on performance, etc.

phew.

cheers will

[AE82 FXGT]

Not that I have much input to give on this, could you stick up some pics when your done? It sounds like a sweet plan.

[bluemaumau]

yea im planning on doing it in the members section, it involves roating the battery 90degrees and making up new mounts for the battery.

sweet

[Luke28]

Whats the car your doing this to?

[bluemaumau]

4agze in a ae101 corolla

[Stealer Of Souls]

I have no experience, or quantifiable data...

But I would think that a 2 inch feed pipe would limit the advantage over factory gear. Best to go bigger.

And. The bigger the box the more "storage" you have for when you go on throttle. Just think of it a bit like this. While going forward at 110kph, with very little or no throttle a very slighty pressure can build up in the airbox, intake and feed pipe. Opening the throttle will suck all that air in. The more storage the better...

[bluemaumau]

yea that was my thoughts.

the cars have standard 2" feeds anyway, so i dont think that matters
(not the t/b to afm/pod piping) im talking about the hole in the inner guard.

cheers, maybe ill make it a little bigger

[Luke28]

Ive done the battery turn 90deg in my ae101 so that the pod sits just behind the headlight. was pretty simple to do.

[mr30%jr]

didnt someone intellegent and trust worthy say at one time thats its better have static air flowing past your filter or induction system rather to make a ramtube type situation. i just get this picture in my head: airs going hardout through your intake yea gravey but what happens when youshift and drop that butterfly closed that airs gun stall in its tracks all the way back to your cold feed

can someone go further into detail? prove me wrong? could be just talking shit

[bluemaumau]

yea i know hat you mean, im having all these thoughts also, hence the post

[Jdawg]

didnt someone intellegent and trust worthy say at one time thats its better have static air flowing past your filter or induction system rather to make a ramtube type situation. i just get this picture in my head: airs going hardout through your intake yea gravey but what happens when youshift and drop that butterfly closed that airs gun stall in its tracks all the way back to your cold feed

can someone go further into detail? prove me wrong? could be just talking poo

With N/A cars the V8's with their 4bbl liked Ram air with long intakes to help straighten the air into the carb, hence the letterbox scoops. Edelbrock put out an adaptor for sitting on top of the carb that also helped flow the air into the carb for some impressive gains. Webber and Delorto didn't like the ram setups due to it messing with the pulses those carbs use to meter flow but if you built a big air collector about the carbs and rammed the air into the collector the carbs liked the cooler stuff.
I changed the air filter on the Curren the other day and noticed a plastic box hooked up to the intake tube, it reminded me of a similar setup on my old IT Yamaha. They had some silly name for it, Powershot or something, designed, once again, to even out the pulses.

As for what happens when you shut the throttle, the engine goes over to full vacuum, so I don't know if any stall would happen.

[bluemaumau]

so would most agree that maybe just hving a sheild on the engine side and the bottom would be sufficient?

i know nothing can be proven without dyno results but someone may have a fair idea

cheers