Filling up G/Box

[skoty]

Ok heres the situation, obviously on ya typical fwd transaxle you have the drain hole (1/2 drive) and a filler/check hole (3/8 drive). Problem being after i had drained the fluid, went to fill it up and some tard had used lock tight or cross threaded the filler hole nut. Sol my dilema being I cannot undo that nut (broken 2 3/8th drives) and need an alternative to filling the gearbox.

What would be best to do as something needs to be done?! Is there a way of pumping fluid back up the drain hole or what. This should have been a 10 minute job which pisses me off

[sergei]

There are plenty of holes you can fill the gearbox through.
Is the 24mm bolt on the side gearbox stuffed? If it is you will need to fix that as this is very important hole for oil level check.
You can fill it through that bolt or one of the two bolt on the shifter thing, or remove speed sensor and fill it through there, or at last you can remove reverse switch...

[Mr Revhead]

fist up.
what car? as in a previous post you were talking about a nissan or something

[Zak]

It's prolly his pulsar,N14? SR18DE I think. Shouldn't bee to hard to find out how much it takes and then fill it through the speedo drive.

[flygt4]

weld a length of steel pole onto it

[skoty]

Yeah well I guess it is important as the filler is also the check. I was actually thinking the speedo drive, guess I got to somehow find out what the capacity is. I assume over filling the gearbox would be as bad as over filling an engine. Once the problem is sorted the cars going on tardme so no more pulsar dramas

[Zak]

Over filling it wont really do too much, but you'll find it hard to change gears as the syncros wont grip.

Just get some thing to use as a dip stick and then just guess the aprox hight of the filler plug, you shouldn't be too far out.

[skoty]

The speedo drive/reverse switch etc are mounted too far down so wouldn't be able to use them to fill the gearbox I discovered. F**k I'm pissed the CV/axle and everything is all done. Just have this last what was supposed to be a 5 minute job that has fukt me over cause some tard cross threaded the nut Guess drilling and re-tapping is the only option

[slighty_sykotic]

How do you know its cross threaded? Like you said, might just be locktited or something.


Get a bigger bar and undo it (spary lots of crc etc around it first of course, let it to soak it).

Or use a cold chisel and hammer and knock the plug around to losen it.



And you talka bout 1/2 and 3/8 drives...not socket size....

Is it one of those square holes in the plugs that you put the extention bar straight into? If so, then get a proper tool...most bar are rounded, and wont be gripping properly.

If its a socket, and you just wrote it queer, then ingore that above, and just get a better single hex socket that grips properly and wont break. Then find the biggest bar you can and go for it... Once it breaks you will be able to see why it wouldn't come off



And asumming that you have the right bolt/plug of course. (not doubting you, just another thing to check I guess).

--Sykotic

[KinLoud]

Generally if the bolt is crossthreaded into alloy it will undo fairly easily.
It's unlikely that it has been locktighted but the following will still apply:

If the head of the bolt isn't rounded...
Hit it hard once, square on with a big hammer - this can help to loosen the grip the thread has.
Get a six point socket of the correct size and a long breaker bar.
Make very sure the socket is square on the bolt head.
Undo.

Good luck

ken
ham
021 408 863

[skoty]

Generally if the bolt is crossthreaded into alloy it will undo fairly easily.
It's unlikely that it has been locktighted but the following will still apply:

If the head of the bolt isn't rounded...
Hit it hard once, square on with a big hammer - this can help to loosen the grip the thread has.
Get a six point socket of the correct size and a long breaker bar.
Make very sure the socket is square on the bolt head.
Undo.

Good luck

ken
ham
021 408 863

Tried it but still didn't work

[Adoom]

Solution 1:
Weld a long handle on to the bolt head.

Solution 2:
If you have a gas welder heat the bolt up and undo it. I have yet to find something that cant be persuaded loose with lots of heat. The Loctite chemical bond is also broken by heat.

Story:
I had a really tight diff drain plug that kept rounding off rather than turning.
I only had the MIG then. So I just welded at the middle of the bolt(and it got hot) and after that it was magically easy to turn.

More Story:
The MIGHTY STARVIA has a nissan box in it and the gbox filler plug is tapered and EFFING tight.

Solution 3:
Get a LONGER lever!!!

Relevant Story:
Some Gorilla did the hub nuts on my mini up to like a million lbft torque.
So we got a spare socket and welded it to the end of the trusty spare garage propshaft. That was a LOOOONG lever about 2metres long.

Fact:
Yes.... I am Crazy.

[Cahuna]

I had the exact same problem with the oil filler on my SR20 gearbox, heat was the solution. In this case Iused a heat gun (I wasn't allowed to play with the welding gear in the shed ) for approx 10 mins, then it came loose relatively easily. Metal plug + alloy gearbox casing = metal expanding at different rates, loosening things up.

If you can use a 3/8" powerbar, rather than a ratchet or a 1.2" drive with 3/8" adapter (we broke one of those adapters), if necessary add a length of tube to the end of the bar to give more leverage.

[skoty]

I had the exact same problem with the oil filler on my SR20 gearbox, heat was the solution.

Cheers man

[frost]

my SR20 gearbox

pulsar,N14? SR18DE

had the same problem with a nissan diff drain

trend?

[skoty]

my SR20 gearbox

pulsar,N14? SR18DE

had the same problem with a nissan diff drain

trend?

Spose you used the heat treatment as well or had an alternative? Bloody nissans

[frost]

hammer square on hit and it did the job. dont hit the bolt itself but use something like a old socket or piece of metal to place on top or inside the square.