1UZ conversion - Surf

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1UZ conversion - Surf

Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Sun Jul 01, 2007 11:36 pm

ok well been having a good search around here and not too much info has gone into this
there was a few posts from 2004, but availability of all sorts has changed since then

basically what i am wanting to do is create a good tow vehicle that has decent power, plus has the mod cons
initially i thought maybe a commy, but have shied more towards a SUV type arrangement
some discussion went on here about this

now what i was thinking may be the easiest/best way to do it would be to get a 4 door manual petrol v6 hilux surf as a base to start with

some reasons for this:
i want it to be manual
i want 4 doors
i want the option of clicking it into 4wd
i want the widebody version
i want the rear window to be one of the electric roll down ones (and also the other windows to be electric)

i want, i want, i want!!!

id prefer it to have disk brakes all round, id prefer it to not be jacked up suspension - standard height or slightly lowered/stiffened up

questions:
would starting out with a petrol versus a diseasel make things easier - im assuming the petrol tank and lines will be fine to use for the conversion?

would starting out manual make things easier also?

i have read that the v6 boxes work ok with the 1uz, and need an adaptor bellhousing?

ECU-wise, well probably a link also from what i have read?
is there a specific model link that would be best?
would i need a standard ECU if i was going to link it?
im assuming id need a loom for plugs etc and that a cut one would be fine?

engine mounts: assume these all have to be custom?
i asked a question on some guy selling 1uz-hilux mounts on tardme, and he said that surfs used different mounts so they would not fit

does anyone know a link to, or a list of what model/chassis codes would be my best options?

handbrake - now i read somewhere that you have to relocate it to the floor, rather than the firewall. how hard is this to do, and did any surfs come out with a 'floor mounted handbrake'?

which sump would be the best bet?

also links/opinions/prices/hookups would be appreciated for all the other bits and pieces:
fuel pump
clutch
flywheel
motor itself


and anything i may have overlooked (it is 1030pm on a Sunday, i should be asleep :P)




i want to keep it reliable, and fairly factory looking
i imagine a cert on this wouldnt be too much of a drama


thanks in advance for the input!
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Postby strx7 » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:44 am

what are you wanting to be able to tow?

a 2JZ is cheaper on gas than a 1UZ

start out with either a manual V6 petrol or a 3 litre (1KZ) deisel as they use the R151 gearbox - yes you'll need to adapt the bell housing.

You'll want diff ratios either 4.1, 3.9 or possible even 3.7 depends how much highway/crusing miles you do.

the 89-94 shape surf's have drum rear brakes. the later ones have discs.

as for the sump, if you want the engine to sit at a proper height in the engine bay you'll need to get the sump altered to suit.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:45 am

if you get a good 1kz one, you may find you can live with that for a while

why disc brakes? the 95 on kzn185s had rear drums too.....
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Postby postfach » Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:11 am

If it's just a tow vehicle I assume you won't be modifying the engine at all/much, so why spend the money on a link? The factory 1UZ ECU will work fine and you get to use that $1000~ on something more useful, like engine mounts or adaptor plate/bellhousing
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Postby KinLoud » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:29 pm

I like manuals much much more than autos, but....
I think if you go for 1UZ just use the (usually) free auto gearbox that comes with it. No extra cost or fiddling about finding and setting up the manual bits i.e. custom flywheel, bellhousing and or adapter, clutch release setup etc.

For all the towing I have done in town or on the open road I find an auto much better for several reasons. These include not having to slip the clutch with a heavy load from a hill start, much easier on the drivetrain shifting gears, etc.

My 10c worth anyway.

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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:33 pm

im fairly sure the 1uz bell housing bolts up to the V6 surf auto box.
thats a big plus in easy and $$
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:50 pm

towing AE92 FXGT, and then just other odd stuff such as firewood, quad bikes etc
(by the way the caldina with 3 people in it plus chocka full of hunting gear tows a small trailer with quad bike and some more gear fine, but a trailer/car on the back would weigh just as much as the caldina itself and i dont want to strain the motor/drivetrain/turbo)

manual, well i just like the control of the power/vehicle you have over the autos

ECU - i heard its a right b!tch to set up the factory one when doing coversions? but thats why im asking for peoples advice! :D

brakes, well i spose it wouldnt matter too much, but assumed that since im towing a car around discs would achieve better stopping?

2JZ vs 1UZ - would there be much of a difference im mounting/setting up/motor price?

highway/cruising would probably be where most of the kms would be racked up
i either car pool to/from work or take home the work ute now, so have cut my gas bill from $80-100 a week, to more like $100 a month :D
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:59 pm

just buy this and be done with it, no pissing around, already done, bugs ironed out, cert taken care off, turn the key & its ready to tow

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 960898.htm

the compromise on that one, loss of two doors, but one could live with that.

for the cost of the vehicle, plus engine, plus materials, plus labor to get it in, wiring, it is cheaper to buy something already done.
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:30 pm

yeah i have seen that one, its got a few tings i dont like on it tho
1) its in chch (not too major)
2) its not widebody, and has a freaken ugly bumper
3) as you mentioned, 2 door (also not overly major)

never heard of gecko ecu
cant see if its electric windows or wind up
but the rear definitely doesnt look like it goes down
plus those graphics are eww!
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Postby Bling » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:34 pm

would certainly save you a bit of time!

looks pretty tidy 8)
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Postby postfach » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:45 pm

i don't see why it would be hard to wire the factory ecu in, esp. if you are using a petrol chassis - the engine stuff will (obviously) plug straight in, the only thing you really need to wire up is the stuff that goes between the ecu and the dash/body (and since you'll have both looms, you can raid the original loom for plugs for that stock look). it would certainly help to have a wiring diagram for the chassis you are wiring into and ecu pinouts for at least the 1UZ you are using and possibly (but not really needed) the ecu that was originally in the car.

also this way you don't need to muck around with a tune, and in actual fact it's LESS wiring than putting an aftermarket ECU in.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:56 pm

i think its coz some of the ecus work in with the auto and traction control etc.
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Postby ollieboy » Mon Jul 02, 2007 4:00 pm

That trademe one is a cool surf, I got my injectors cleaned by the guy who owns it, Its done really well and tidy looking. Its definately worth considering it, those graphics shouldnt be too hard to peel off with a heat gun.
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Postby postfach » Mon Jul 02, 2007 4:01 pm

the ecu in my car was from an auto jzx90 with trc, and i'm not having any problems. (manual and trc doesn't do anything/throw codes) it may be different with the 1UZ ecu though?
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