mk3 supra manual conversion - spigot bearing

[tractionfree]

hi all, i'm in the middle of a manual conversion on a 1ggte supra, got all the slushbox stuff off and out, and now i go to put the spigot bearing in and it wont fit. have i been given the wrong one or is there already one in there that needs to be removed? (if its anything like the skyline ones, aaaaaaaaagh). cheers

[Ae92typeX]

its not a sloppy fit (needs to be carefully knocked in), but if its clearly a different size you may have been given the wrong one. From memory there shouldnt be anything there. wasnt when I did the conversion.
Several people on here have dont it, so someone else should be able to confirm.

[tractionfree]

yeah if i look into where the spigot goes, theres a line running around the inside about 10mm in, almost like there is an auto spigot bush there a la skylines (the only other car ive really had a lot of manual conversion experience with). but if you reckon the bearing is supposed to go right in, and cant remember having to pull the bush out, then its probably supposed to look like that.

depends what you mean by knocking in.. yeah pretty sure i could persuade it in there but not too sure how healthy itd be for the bearing. its probably 1-2mm oversize?

if it makes any difference this is an 86 supra

[tractionfree]

actually while im on the topic i might as well add these questions too;

i dont have a manual driveshaft from a 1ggte supra, but i do have one from a 7mgte supra.. if i swap the drive yoke over, will this be the right length? (it is slightly longer than the auto 1g shaft)

while everything is off is it worth replacing the rear oil seal.... do supras have problems with these? not that interested in making more work for myself but considerably less interested in pulling this box again if oil gets into the clutch.... cheers

[Ae92typeX]

From memory (so wait for other replies) spigot bearing sits almost flush-just after the taper. by knock inI just mean tap in with a small hammer and a socket the same o/d as the bearing outer shell. if its 2mm bigger I would question it being the correct one.

I had a custom shaft made, so unsure re:7m shaft length. It is slightly longer though.

Assuming you have sorted the box mount & already bridged the auto inhibitor. You can take the auto ecu out then also.

I'd replace the rear seal while its open - its not difficult & worth it if engine has done a bit of mileage.

[tractionfree]

From memory (so wait for other replies) spigot bearing sits almost flush-just after the taper. by knock inI just mean tap in with a small hammer and a socket the same o/d as the bearing outer shell. if its 2mm bigger I would question it being the correct one.

I had a custom shaft made, so unsure re:7m shaft length. It is slightly longer though.

Assuming you have sorted the box mount & already bridged the auto inhibitor. You can take the auto ecu out then also.

I'd replace the rear seal while its open - its not difficult & worth it if engine has done a bit of mileage.

we have factory 5 speed gbox mount. i hear that i may still have to drill some holes?

the car already starts in any gear so im guessing the inhibitor has taken care of itself how much for a rear seal? cheers

[Ae92typeX]

on the factory mount you will only line up 2 of the 4 box bolts. Some just do that. I welded on longer tabsto make all 4 bolt up. Technically a modification, but it looked origonal and was just as strond as.

email revhead for seal price. not too expensive, but I have forgotten exact price.

looks like I was wrong re:spigot bearing position:
http://www.conceptual.net.au/~peewee/gbox_conv_1.html

[tractionfree]

the 1-2mm oversize is before taking the taper into account so im guessing it'd be even more oversized. should probably pop into repco and have a looksee

[tractionfree]

ive used the flexplate bolts for the flywheel, been told that thats ok as long as long as its not going to be put under extreme pressure, sound right?

[Ae92typeX]

they are about 6mm shorter arnt they?
Up to you, but if it was my legs I'd go buy the correct length & make sure are torqued to specification.
Silent Knight or Quint may have more input also, they have both done the conversion also.

[tractionfree]

they are about 6mm shorter arnt they?
Up to you, but if it was my legs I'd go buy the correct length & make sure are torqued to specification.
Silent Knight or Quint may have more input also, they have both done the conversion also.

sweet well i'll wait till they show up and i'll bug them for answers. definatley sounds like ive got the wrong spigot bearing here though

[Quint]

Didnt read the replies too well but.

Spigot bearing needs to bit nicely snug, knock it in with a piece of wood over the bearing so you don't $&#$% it, also add some grease around the outside of the bearing so when/if you want to take it out to replace it, its not fused on there.

As for the x member (i think thats what u asked, again i skimmed it... so lasy) You may need to make up a bracket. These were mine:



Real easy and simple, can't tell the differance when ur looking up, just ha three bolts instead of two.

Also replace your gearbox input seal, i didn't the first time and i ruined a clutch because of it.

[tex]

I personally would not be using flexi plate bolts for the flywheel....... Pretty sure they are quiet a bit shorter.

As for the bush it should just push in like in the nissans. If it doesn't when it has been soaked in oil etc then it probably the wrong size. You don't have that problem with nissans. One bush fits all. Getting the auto bush off is the hard part

[tractionfree]

Getting the auto bush off is the hard part

oh mate is it ever. we tried everything. internal bearing puller, the soap/grease trick, ended up grinding through it with a mounted stone and pulling it out with vicegrips

[docTRD]

hey man howsit its james here from repco today yea hows the conversion goin? when i did myn on my chaser it was relatively straight forward ay . pulled off the flexiplate and stuff then got a new spigot bearing and tapped it in with a socket on top, went in fine and i think it did stick out about 1-2mm . ther wasnt any other thing to pull out when it was auto so was easy. il get u the part number for the spigot bearing. and as for the flexiplate bolts i wouldnt reccomend using as yea they are alot shorter. luckily when i did my conversion i had a flywheel and bolts from another 1g motor. see how ya go.

[tractionfree]

hey man howsit its james here from repco today yea hows the conversion goin? when i did myn on my chaser it was relatively straight forward ay . pulled off the flexiplate and stuff then got a new spigot bearing and tapped it in with a socket on top, went in fine and i think it did stick out about 1-2mm . ther wasnt any other thing to pull out when it was auto so was easy. il get u the part number for the spigot bearing. and as for the flexiplate bolts i wouldnt reccomend using as yea they are alot shorter. luckily when i did my conversion i had a flywheel and bolts from another 1g motor. see how ya go.

hey dude yeah was trying to remember your login on here but couldnt. pretty sure this bearing is too big. it wouldnt fit the machined section let alone the inner bit. unless i can find someone with the bolts i might just go to the bolts and fasteners place on te rapa straight and ask for '6 of these but 6mm longer'. probably better than using someone elses second hand flywheel bolts anyway.

want to price me up that rear seal and spigot bearing? cheers

[blackmk3]

Just go to toyota and buy 6 genewin manual flywheel bolts, thats what i did there like $3 each and cheap insurance compared to your flywheel letting go at 7000rpms

Also for the spigot once again go to toyota, not sure on the price but its bugger all, fits straight in and lasts 200,000kms +

Much better than a repco part if you ask me, when i did my conversion it was straight forward and quick

[docTRD]

hey man yea i got the part number from repco of the spigot bearing i used, its a 1196001 NTN bearing. fit perfect pretty much. theyre about $7. the rear seal i havnt priced up but can prolly get it to u for about $15? . see how u go man. cheers

[tractionfree]

sweet as dude. probably swing by tomorrow and grab it if youve got it in stock. you got the spigot bearing there too? cheers