silvertop refusing to fire

[cogent]

alright, I want to get to the end of this once and for all.

I have a AE101 Silvertop 4AGE in a 1985 AW11 MR2. Everything on the engine is factory bar the exhaust from the headers back.

Currently, when you turn the key to start the engine, it cranks but will not fire. There is 12v at the coil, the sparkplugs will spark a strong blue spark when ground against the block and it reeks of fuel after cranking.

I have done the following

- new TGP dizzy cap
- new TGP rotor
- new 'top gun' OEM spec leads
- new challenge plugs
- confirmed fuel pump runs when the afm door is pushed (when key set to ON)
- removed exhaust (noticed that at the 4-2 header, one of the sections where it joins the 2-1 section was dripping with fuel but the other side was bone dry)
- pulled plugs to injectors, attempted to start with ether spray, nary a pop or a sputter
- charged battery and confirmed 12v
- alarm responds to the key remote as it should, locks/unlocks properly
- intake is not blocked

i suspect the wiring to the injectors is possibly dicky, or the ecu itself is fried. could someone give me info on how to test the injectors (ie which pin is +12v and which is gnd, and where they gnd to).

I would really like to get my little red car started again so any help would be appreciated!

[AceSniper]

all injectors should get 12v with key on, then the ecu triggers them with ground.

Check that the cams gears line up at tdc could be the timing way out?

what happens on diagnostics? its possible the capacitors in the ecu are gone.

[Lloyd]

If you have spark and fuel then check compression and timing. If all are good then you may have too much fuel. Clean the plugs, blow out the cylinders and see if it fires then

[MR2SIK]

plug that sends trigger signals from the dizzy to the ecu could have a broken wire?

Same symptoms I was facing and fixed recently

[flygt4]

plug that sends trigger signals from the dizzy to the ecu could have a broken wire?

Same symptoms I was facing and fixed recently

I fixed a similar problem by replacing the dizzy itself. it would give inconsistent triggers causing inconsistent spark, sometimes it was fine, then it wasnt etc. meant the car would cough and splutter but not fire up.

new dizzy and she fired up almost immediately.

[cogent]

I have poked around with my multimeter (pulled the loom this afternoon).

Injector plugs each have conductivity to thier respective grounds on the ECU pin, and all share a common 12v. I assume this 12v goes to the EFI relay in the fusebox?

all 4 lines on the dizzy plug have conductivity to the ecu too.

Also, there is absolutely no coughing and spluttering at all, other than cranking over as if it had no fuel or spark is that occasionally the starter stumbles, although i think that is a symptom of a battery wearing down from continuous cranking

Will see if i can do a compression test.

A bit more back story:

I did the engine swap originally with help from MR2oc member colin (84vvt) and we were succesfull in getting it to run. I ran that engine for about a year and a half until mechanical failure. I bought a ae101 marino engine off revhead through toyota and bolted it in. I got it started fine with the same ECU and wiring loom as the old engine, and on that day started/stopped it about 20 times whilst doing various things (topping up coolant, bolting on exhaust etc) and making sure things are good to go. When I went to take it for its first test drive it just stopped starting on me

[cogent]

what the f u c k k k? according to this page ( http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:0l ... =firefox-a ) the starter signal to the ECU has been cut (manual harness, N-plug, pin 2, black/white wire) and is not plugged in to anything at all. its about a 2mm stub, and has clearly been cut.

yeah, thatd contribute to a non starting problem.