Advice for 2AGE Build

[idealneil]

Hey, I'm looking at building a 2AGE to put in my KP60 Starlet club / rally car.

I've done a bit of searching fo info, but haven't really found anything specific on how these motors go or any problems / downfalls are of building them.

Has anyone built and run one of these motors before.

I'm looking at using the factory 2A short block, and mating a 4AGE small port head on it. RWD Water pump etc.

Does any one know whether a 20Valve head would fit?
I've decided to try use the small port head based on the port size, being a 1300cc I don't imagine I'll need the flow that the big port head allows, so a small port would be a better option.

As I mentioned, I'm new to engine building so this will be a good learning curve for me. So hopefully I won't ask too many dumb or stupid questions.

Cheers
Neil

[Dell'Orto]

Kinda thinking aloud here, but would there be issues with valve shrouding given the bore diameter difference?

[d1 mule]

i was under the impression all "A" series blocks had the same bore...

dont waste your money with RWD waterpump stuff, use all FWD stuff and it all works fine.


will be a mint engine, scream its tits off

[spencer]

Na 2A IS 76MM VS 81? of a 4age

[RomanV]

It's been done before.

If I recall, the main problems are that the 2afe has got a weaker non forged crank compared to 4AGE, and I think it had a different flywheel bolt pattern which meant you cant use a 4age flywheel etc.

Another problem will be everyone accusing you of cheating by having a 1600cc engine at every event you turn up to

[Mr Revhead]

Yes has been done before.
I looked into it years and years ago as I was about to inherit an AE80, but I didn't so looked no further.
From what I recall from back then, all the good ones have had a lot of coin spent on them to make them go well. I don't think it's a case of just slapping on the 4age head and making a shit load more power.
Ask around some of the rally guys down there, as I recall most of the ones I heard about being built for under 1300cc class rallying

[RomanV]

For the amount of work, seems hard to justify compared to just fitting either something like a 1300cc suzuki swift twin cam engine, or even bettter a bike engine.

[Mr Revhead]

Yes. But, logic is often the first thing to get thrown out the window when it comes to car projects!
2age would be cool, Busa engine and 6 speed squential would be cool. Swift 1300 would be logical, but the most boring option

[idealneil]

Hey, thanks for the opinions. Yeh I've looked into the bike option. Hayabusas are worth around 6g upwards due to having to get either a whole bike or at least the motor and loom and all the dash etc due to it being all tied in together.
The suzuki swift motor has been a option I was thinking about, but RWD gearboxes are the only thing there. I believe one of the 4wd suzuki samaris gearboxes work, you just take off the transfer case. But finding those motors isn't hard but they definitly aren't just lying around.

Yeh I was thinking about the the standard pistons on the 2a, I assume on a standard 4age piston that they are flycut to give valve clearance, Would this be a concern with the standard 2a piston??

Would it be worth putting some plastercine on the pistons and turn it over once I have all the parts to actually get a visual idea of the clearance / interference?

As I mentioned. This is my first race motor build, so I'm keen to do everything is that means taking a bit longer then thats how it is.

Cheers Neil

[strx7]

It's been done before.

If I recall, the main problems are that the 2afe......

err is was a 2A, no F, E or anything else.


A samurai gearbox doesn't have a transfer box, it is a totally seperate item if you went the G13B DOHC route, In all honesty it would probably work out cheaper to just grab a damaged hayabusa, and its probably easier to get parts for than a G13B DOHC GTi engine.
6K for a bullet proof, sit on the rev limiter all day long 170odd HP 1300cc engine is pretty good value

[QikStarlie]

would think you'd need to go custom pistons and rods at least anyway. you'l be needing to get a decent compression ratio, and will need plenty of revs.
the valves in a 20v head may cause more issues with the bore size difference over a 16v head. you'd have to figure it out. go blacktop, failing that smallport

that busa engine is looking cheaper

[rollaholic]

they make more bikes than just hayabusas ya know

[spencer]

what else? there isn't many bikes in the hypersport over 1000cc bracket that will be cost effective. ZX12 will be harder to find, zx14 too big, BMW will cost a packet, VFR waste of time, Ducati 1198 = $$, etc etc. If your going to limit yourself to a 1300cc class, busa wins for power per $$

2a would be awesome but as said you will really need custom pistons or you will have low compression and poor combustion. Then probably rods and if your going to spin it to some decent revs, what are the cranks like?

I assume the 2a block has less deck height? If you were doing it properly you would take it out to 4age Bore, custom crank to de-stroke it, off the shelf high comp 4age pistons (possibly custom and move the pin up), custom rod. Bah just spent a whole bunch of money without head work or a ECU

Go bike engine! start saving, you will save in the long run and the 2A will never make that kind of power without spending a huge amount. Even then a 4age head will never flow like the bike one. Oh and its probably a shit load lighter even with the gearbox. Go copy that other busa starlet, bike gearbox running into a chopped down K40 that sits in 4th gear

[QikStarlie]

probably better off just to destroke a 4age. custom crank and custom long rods and your done, plus your broke and need to spend more $$$ just to get you back up to 4age power.