Wiring black top in Ae85

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Wiring black top in Ae85

Postby R.U.F » Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:23 pm

So . . . got discouraged by the huge cost of getting big horsepower NA out of my blue top and have bought a black top 20v to install. I have read some on line discussion about coil over plug and wondered if anyone has done this and can help. I'd prefer to keep the standard computer for now to keep cost down.
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Re: Wiring black top in Ae85

Postby matt dunn » Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:46 pm

R.U.F wrote:So . . . got discouraged by the huge cost of getting big horsepower NA out of my blue top and have bought a black top 20v to install. I have read some on line discussion about coil over plug and wondered if anyone has done this and can help. I'd prefer to keep the standard computer for now to keep cost down.


Standard Computer and Coil over plug.

Can have one or the other but not both.
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Re: Wiring black top in Ae85

Postby grippa » Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:03 pm

matt dunn wrote:
R.U.F wrote:So . . . got discouraged by the huge cost of getting big horsepower NA out of my blue top and have bought a black top 20v to install. I have read some on line discussion about coil over plug and wondered if anyone has done this and can help. I'd prefer to keep the standard computer for now to keep cost down.


Standard Computer and Coil over plug.

Can have one or the other but not both.


Yes you can but I havnt tryed it I dont like the theory in it. I wired in my blacktop in my AE85 myself was not to hard
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Postby R.U.F » Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:22 pm

Grippa How did you set up your distributor? Don't wanna mess with my fire wall so need another solution
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Re: Wiring black top in Ae85

Postby matt dunn » Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:10 pm

grippa wrote:Yes you can but I havnt tryed it I dont like the theory in it. I wired in my blacktop in my AE85 myself was not to hard


In theroy wasted spark is possible with a GZE igniter,
but 4 coils from a single trigger output is just way to complicated.

Just becuse someone on the internet says they can build a circuit to do it,
does not mean it will work in practise.

Would need an electronic controller just as or more complicated than a standalone ECU.

Options to keep it reliable are
1/ Modify the firewall to fit the dist,
2/ Relocate the dist to the front of the engine
3/ Go aftermarket ECU.
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Postby rollaholic » Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:57 am

as i recall nic was working on a kit to relocate the dizzy in this situation, i think his user name on here is trls250 or something. havent seem him post in a good while though, more likely to find him on oldschool forums
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:45 pm

I've heard about horror costs in setting up an aftermarket ECU and ignition. Anyone got some good news stories?
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:13 pm

Wiring and installing side, i would rather always wire an aftermarket ECU than a standard one.

IMO wiring an aftermarket ECU is easier and tidier than wiring a STD ECU,
and for the tuning side you will have to pay for it to be done properly if you want a good result
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Postby touge_ae101 » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:31 pm

this may be a bit left feild but will the head go on backwards like they do with some honda motors?? would solve dizzy problem...
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:34 pm

Looks like an good quality ECU with ignition control is $1,700 or more plus install. :(
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Postby touge_ae101 » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:41 pm

look for a second hand link such as a G3 which will do pretty much everything you will need. or go for a megasquirt if you know someone to build it for you. would want to go for a MS3 or MS2 ideally...

cutting firewall isn't the end of the world is it?? will need to be certed anyway and depending how far apart the car is already it might not be all that difficult.
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Postby rollaholic » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:55 pm

i've seen them fitting by bashing the firewall with a large hammer. it doesnt need much.
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:59 pm

The car is complete and cost me a fortune in panel and paint. Those who know it will understand my hesitation in bashing the firewall. I had a brand new rear quarter, rear panel and all the usual rust work. All up the panel and paint was over $10,000. lucky it was spread over 4 years.
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Postby touge_ae101 » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:06 pm

R.U.F wrote:The car is complete and cost me a fortune in panel and paint. Those who know it will understand my hesitation in bashing the firewall. I had a brand new rear quarter, rear panel and all the usual rust work. All up the panel and paint was over $10,000. lucky it was spread over 4 years.


8O 8O

hmm ok then.
why skimp on another 2k or so then to make it mint? suppose you have got to the point now where you just want to drive it? instead of bashing, you could 'gently manipulate' with a porta powa and maybe a block of wood shaped that something that would look like it was pressed that way from factory?
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Postby grippa » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:57 pm

I do like factory stuff but if you spent that much already I would go aftermarket ecu . If you want cop here is an option but it is batch fire what I dont like but is proven to work this is most of it but not all http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... wiring.jpg
I am not the drawer and take no responsibility over this image

I went with a sp-tec relocation still a lot cheaper than aftermarket ecu but not cheap if you have to pay retail
Image

If you want to talk more in detail let me know
RUF your Sams mate right ? PS it is Clint
Last edited by grippa on Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby grippa » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:59 pm

touge_ae101 wrote:this may be a bit left feild but will the head go on backwards like they do with some honda motors?? would solve dizzy problem...


So what would you you do with the cam belt ? You sure you heard right ?
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Postby touge_ae101 » Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:10 pm

well the problem with the dizzy is that it protudes 70-80mm from the back of the head.. would need to keep cams facing same way... would be quite technical but i'm sure its possible.
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:31 pm

If the engine is standard and it is a road car,

Then relocating the dist to the front and running a standard ECU is the best option.

No tuning required
Good performance and good economy.
Much better cold start and dirveability than with an aftermarket ECU
with better idle speed control etc etc.

Well worth it especially if the car bodyshell is as good as you make it sound as you can make it look almost factory.
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:25 pm

Cheers guys. Which Sam Clint? MR2 Sam? Give me a text and we can chat about it. Even better might meet up to check the kit out.
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