Replacing valve springs without removing head?

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Replacing valve springs without removing head?

Postby cat007 » Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:39 pm

Hey all

Just wondering if anyone has every replaced valve springs without taking the head off?
I've got a set of performance springs for my 1G-GTE and pretty keen on putting them in to stop the valve bounce I get at around 8,000rpm.

Feeding rope down in through the spark plug hole and then using the piston to wedge the valves shut is an idea that I've heard thrown around before.

I guess I'd have to make some sort of SST to compress the springs to get the keepers and retainers out.

Any tips or pointers oh how to do it or what your SST looks like?
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Postby mjrstar » Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:09 pm

I'm not too sure exactly how you go about this..

But a word of warning, your oil system won't love 8000+ rpm.

I accidentally hit my 7800 rpm limiter on the 1G on the short track at Taupo the other day, I can't say I normally have need for more RPM's than that!!
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Postby Distrb » Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:35 pm

did it on an altezza 3sge

Just modified a valve spring compressor tool that a friend had made up so that it would attach to the head and push the spring straight down

Image

then just made sure the piston was at the top of whatever cylinder was being done at the time so if the valve fell, it wouldnt fall far. wasnt really an issue, because the oil around the valves and stem seals seemed to hold the valve in place without much issue.

oh and it was a 2 person job (one to hold the valve spring compressed and the other to fit the collets).
www.hccc.org.nz 1986 Fx-Gt; 1999 Altezza
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Postby cat007 » Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:02 pm

mjrstar wrote:I'm not too sure exactly how you go about this..

But a word of warning, your oil system won't love 8000+ rpm.

I accidentally hit my 7800 rpm limiter on the 1G on the short track at Taupo the other day, I can't say I normally have need for more RPM's than that!!


I have heard bad things about the number 6 bearings running dry and there's a sharp edge behind the oil filter?
1:15.4 around Pukekohe
13.63 @ 169kmph at Meremere
Fastest MK3 at Suprafest 08
1G-GTE - Stinger 4424, T04B 60-1, 440cc injectors - 240rwkw @ 16psi
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Postby Shrike » Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:59 pm

http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm

http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... ts_id=1316

have a look at them designed to remove springs without taking head off best way to keep valves up is to run compressed air into the cylinder so do one clylinder at a time :p
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Postby cat007 » Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:06 pm

They look too difficult to make. I'll make a lever based system I think
1:15.4 around Pukekohe
13.63 @ 169kmph at Meremere
Fastest MK3 at Suprafest 08
1G-GTE - Stinger 4424, T04B 60-1, 440cc injectors - 240rwkw @ 16psi
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Postby Rookie » Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:21 pm

I've done valve stem seals with the rope trick, it worked well, highly recommended.
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Postby sergei » Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:29 pm

Shrike wrote:http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm

http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... ts_id=1316

have a look at them designed to remove springs without taking head off best way to keep valves up is to run compressed air into the cylinder so do one clylinder at a time :p


That is an awesome tool. well worth the couple of hundreds of dollars if you want to do couple of heads.
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Postby mjrstar » Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:37 pm

cat007 wrote:I have heard bad things about the number 6 bearings running dry and there's a sharp edge behind the oil filter?


yeah I have oversized the crank and big end feeds to #1 and #6 and did some mild oil gallery porting around the pump and filter.

I have no idea if it will actually help but I thought it couldn't hurt...
current cars:
Evo 4 230Kw atw
1971 mini.
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Evo powered mx5 under construction

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