GT-T LR noise -update- could be shocks to blame!

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

i remeber a discussion on a rubbing/knocking noise coming from the left rear of a caldina, mine does this as well and i was just wondering whether a diagnosis was made? and/or who had the same problem
couldnt find the thread to drag it up, so started this one..
but to elaborate, when turing right, mostly under boost, a rubbing/knocking noise comes from the left rear wheel region. i have seen no obvious signs of wear on my tyre and havent noticed any crap sticking out near the wheel up under the guard that might be rubbing.

plus my boost sucks, get an average of about 10psi during hard acceleration, quite often it dips down to ~8. under really hard acceleration it spikes up to about 12. i am running 96 if that makes a diff (stupid 'Naki not having 98) *edit <- you stupid smilie *98*)

hmm and something else while im posting: how hard are air/fuel ratio guages/meters to hook up? and are they worth it?

[UTERUS]

Is it the exhaust hitting something?

[fivebob]

Most likely a wheel bearing, or a CV joint. They seem to be prone to LR wheel bearing failures for some reason

[10k 20v]

i'll back the wheel bearing too

[vvega]

or a loose cv nut :S

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

last night i boosted hard in the wet round some RH corners (hehe bitta sliding action) and the noise was really bad - sounded like the exhaust was dragging along the ground or something. i stoppped, check the exhaust and nothing out of the ordinary, gave the LR wheel a good shake/suspension a bounce and no seemed problems.

might have to get it checked out by a pro. or is there an easy way to check if its a bearing/cv?
if i have to get either of the above done, im assuming it would be best to do both sides? anyone got ideas of parts and labour costs?

ta
Andrew

[Lanius]

Until you get it checked, I recommend you don't boost hard (sliding) around those corners anymore

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

Until you get it checked, I recommend you don't boost hard (sliding) around those corners anymore

yeah figured that after last night!
its a PITH that ive gotta drive so far to get to work and home as well... (80ish km/day)

[fivebob]

last night i boosted hard in the wet round some RH corners (hehe bitta sliding action) and the noise was really bad - sounded like the exhaust was dragging along the ground or something. i stoppped, check the exhaust and nothing out of the ordinary, gave the LR wheel a good shake/suspension a bounce and no seemed problems.

Shaking and bouncing by hand won't tell you much unless it very far gone, the noise tells you enough to diagnose a wheel bearing problem.

might have to get it checked out by a pro. or is there an easy way to check if its a bearing/cv?

Replace it and see if it goes away

if i have to get either of the above done, im assuming it would be best to do both sides? anyone got ideas of parts and labour costs?

No reason to do both sides, as I said the LR wheel bearing appears prone to failure, and of the cases I know of, including my own, only the LR side was replaced.

As to costs, check with Mr Revhead about the parts price, labour shouldn't be more than 2-3hrs for a skilled mechanic. If it wasn't for the drum parking brake I'd say it could be done in 1hr, but removing and replcing that is a PITA.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

*insert all fivebobs good info here*

thanks heaps for all of your goodness, i'll have to shout you a bruskie or two if youre ever round these parts [/i]

[MrOizo]

Most likely a wheel bearing, or a CV joint. They seem to be prone to LR wheel bearing failures for some reason

should be due to the camber on the roads. with most cars you'll find the left side will go first before the others.

Its only a 3degree slope on the roads here in NZ but enough to speed wearing in moving parts like a wheels bearing

[ae92levin]

i get a rubbing/knocking sound from my levin when doing fast/tight cornering.. mechanic thought it was the LR wheel bearing but it was the LR hub bushing connect to the middle control arm. the bushing is just a bit worn thats all.

just thort it mite help you out, im not sure on the setup of a caldina so it might not help.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

hmm well it looks like it could actually be the shocks....
i just ahd my wheel off before and hey hey the left rear shock has oil all over it.
talked toa guy at the workshop and he had a quick look and said well it doesnt seem to be the bearing, or any bushes. the cv boots are fine.
he said its prob the shock.
the shock that is in there actually says toyota on it, which is confusing - i thought it had modified suspension in it? meh.
so whats the best option here? replace both rear shocks - but with what?
i have the wheel bearing kit sitting on my coffee table at home $200 odd later from memory...

any options/opinions?

[fivebob]

hmm well it looks like it could actually be the shocks....
i just ahd my wheel off before and hey hey the left rear shock has oil all over it.
talked toa guy at the workshop and he had a quick look and said well it doesnt seem to be the bearing, or any bushes. the cv boots are fine.
he said its prob the shock.
the shock that is in there actually says toyota on it, which is confusing - i thought it had modified suspension in it? meh.
so whats the best option here? replace both rear shocks - but with what?
i have the wheel bearing kit sitting on my coffee table at home $200 odd later from memory...

any options/opinions?

I can't see how a blown shock would cause the noise you describe, it would have to be so far gone, to the point that the shaft was so loose that you could move the shock laterally by hand. If that were the case the handling would be abysmal and the car would be wandering all over the road

As for the wheel bearings being OK, that may be possible. However when I replaced mine, the one I removed showed no obvious sign of failure, but the noise miraculously disappeared

Options, you could replace just the blown shock with one from a wrecker which would be the cheapest option, or go the whole hog and replace all the suspension with something like Tein HA's which would probably rquire approval from your bank manager

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

Options, you could replace just the blown shock with one from a wrecker which would be the cheapest option, or go the whole hog and replace all the suspension with something like Tein HA's which would probably rquire approval from your bank manager

hmm dont think the bank manager would like that too much with the mortage and all....

[99gtt]

Mag and turbo sell KYB,s direct replacement shocks for $120 each inc gst

[fivebob]

Mag and turbo sell KYB,s direct replacement shocks for $120 each inc gst

If you do replace with other than factory standard shocks then you should at least replace both rear shocks, as damping curves are probably different.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

yeah that was going to be the plan all along - do both

maybe if that shock is rooted, might that be why its such a bumpy ride (especially in the back)?

[Mr Revhead]

hell GENUINE shocks are that price

[TWSTD]

sorry to drag this up again - but did you work out if it was shocks or wheel bearing? I now also havea rubbing / squeeking sound coming from the rear. Slight noise 3 days ago and intermittent - now constant. Very noticable at low speed. I suspect wheel bearing too...

AL