ST185 GT Four: Exhaust Leak

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

ST185 GT Four: Exhaust Leak

Postby Levin » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:48 pm

Hey people, I recently got my hands on a ST185 GT Four. I picked it up pretty cheap, because it needed a bit of work done on it (all new filters, oil change, basic maintenance, rear differential bush, new CV joints etc). I've pretty much got all that fixed now. But now comes the biggie..... there's an exhaust leak somewhere before the turbo. I recently hooked up a boost gauge, and she's only running a measly 5 pound (and obviously isn't pulling very hard). My question is how expensive is this leak likely to be to get fixed, my mechanic wouldn't quote me, he said that it was a "big job" and that he wouldn't know how much it would cost till he had fixed it. Any and all help would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Tom
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:51 pm

It depends if its a cracked manifold or its just warped, or if its purely blown the exhaust gasket.
Whip it off (Its not that hard) and check for any obvious cracks, then have the face planed and a new gasket and nuts and it'll be good as gold.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby Levin » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:55 pm

...so basically what you're saying is that everything just unbolts. Sounds good. I'm about to get a boost controller. 10 pound sound safe to you? Cause she really isn't making me happy at the moment :P
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:58 pm

Pretty much, there are 7 bolts that hold the manifold to the head, and 4 that hold the turbo to the manifold....bit of a wiggle and it comes off.
They ought to run about 10psi anyway, so once you fix that leak you'll see some more boost pressure.
About 15psi is about the max you'd want to go to...and do the intake and exhaust before you wind it up. It ought to have a boost cut at 12ish psi too.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby Levin » Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:03 pm

Thanks for the advice. The other thing I need to do is take some weight out of the car, shes very heavy. Any ideas on what to take out. I was thinking of starting with the A/C
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby Chickenman » Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:04 pm

Make sure you get a ball and spring boost controller as well, so much better than a plain old bleed controller.

Even with it at it's lowest setting (after calibration) you'll notice a major difference (eliminates wastegate bleed).


And gut the catalytic converter.
Baby Jesus
User avatar
Chickenman
I Am The Walrus!
 
Posts: 3554
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 11:29 am
Location: CHCH

Postby Levin » Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:25 pm

Ok, next question, how do you disable boost cut (cause 12psi aint that high). Will cutting the VSV prevent boost cut?
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby vvega » Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:42 pm

boost cut on the 164 is load based
they have no map sensor so it works it out on flap position and tps signal
its very clkeaver and there is no way around it that i know of

the yank and uk versions have a map sensor

ifyou wanna get rid of it your gunna have to look to a new ecu
i.e 185 or mr2 and rewire the plugs to suit


v
vvega
 

Postby Al » Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:51 pm

vvega wrote:boost cut on the 164 is load based
they have no map sensor so it works it out on flap position and tps signal
its very clkeaver and there is no way around it that i know of

the yank and uk versions have a map sensor

ifyou wanna get rid of it your gunna have to look to a new ecu
i.e 185 or mr2 and rewire the plugs to suit


v



:lol: Re read the car in question old man :lol:
85 Corolla GT - 08 Blade Master G
Image
User avatar
Al
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 6146
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 11:52 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby vvega » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:14 pm

$&#$% me im going insane

just unplug the hose fromt he sensor marked boost sensor on the firwall
this will give you all the boost you want

bear in mind
it will go bang

unless your name is al and you fluke everthing :D

v
vvega
 

Postby Levin » Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:55 pm

I have installed a boost gauge, and will be using a (fairly) accurate boost controller, I'm thinking of running about 13 (dont want her to go boom on me). 13 psi should be sweet?
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby vvega » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:13 pm

well belive it or not our resadent fulke aretist runs 19 psi on occasion an his car ant dead
but to be honest i wouldt go over 1 bar(14psi) without look at a non ceramic wheel

not eveyone has al's luck with 3sgte's :D

v
vvega
 

Postby Levin » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:33 pm

Ha ha i'd never run 19psi without modifying the turbo and engine. Also is there anyway of telling if the turbo has been rebuilt? The car has done 126000k's so I'd assume it has, as most gt4 turbos give up after 100000ks. But i guess that with the exhaust leak the turbo hasnt been going very hard? My gauge never reads anything over 5psi, so i assume the wastegate never comes in to play.
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby Malcolm » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:51 pm

Levin wrote:as most gt4 turbos give up after 100000ks.


Who told you that?
User avatar
Malcolm
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4631
Joined: Tue May 14, 2002 1:01 am
Location: Auckland

Postby Adydas » Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:05 pm

Mine was going strong at 194,000ks and is No on a ST185 without a rebuild. :P
User avatar
Adydas
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 5059
Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2002 4:00 pm
Location: Auckland nz

Postby Levin » Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:53 pm

All_Fours wrote:
Levin wrote:as most gt4 turbos give up after 100000ks.


Who told you that?


I read it on some site on the net (cant quite remember where). BTW your site has some very good info :) Im probably going to look into this exhaust leak in the next few days.... I REALLY need to be running more than 5psi!
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Postby Malcolm » Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:09 pm

I think I might know the site you're talking about, did it go something like this?
The CT20, as you can see was the first Toyota turbo, and is far from perfect. It has relatively restrictive turbine housing even for the stock horsepower levels of its applications. Lag is also considerable. Maximum flow is enough for about 210hp. Also, it is reported to fail around 100000km no matter how religiously you cool-down after driving and use best oils possible


As you can see, it refers to the nasty old ct20, the ct26 is far better in terms of reliability, even the ceramic ones can last well over 150,000km
User avatar
Malcolm
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4631
Joined: Tue May 14, 2002 1:01 am
Location: Auckland

Postby Boosted_162 » Thu Feb 02, 2006 12:31 am

Are you certain there actually a leak in the manifold or are you saying that because you are only running 5psi? Cos my old ST185 only ran stock boost of 5psi in 1st and 2nd, then got 6psi in 3rd and up cos of the boost restrictor...And my old CT26 was on 200000km, not sure if it was rebuilt but was still going good.
Current:
1996 KZN185 Hilux Surf
2008 Mazda2
Boosted_162
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3624
Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 1:02 am
Location: Kaukapakapa

Postby sergei » Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:12 am

My turbo on ST165, 200000km, no play, no leaks. Goes fine. I doubt previous owner did anything as I grab it off his hand in a sad state... (cracked radiator, waterpump was leaking, oil seals leaking etc.)
User avatar
sergei
Mad Russian
 
Posts: 8406
Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 12:06 pm
Location: North Shore

Postby Levin » Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:48 am

All_Fours wrote:I think I might know the site you're talking about, did it go something like this?
The CT20, as you can see was the first Toyota turbo, and is far from perfect. It has relatively restrictive turbine housing even for the stock horsepower levels of its applications. Lag is also considerable. Maximum flow is enough for about 210hp. Also, it is reported to fail around 100000km no matter how religiously you cool-down after driving and use best oils possible


As you can see, it refers to the nasty old ct20, the ct26 is far better in terms of reliability, even the ceramic ones can last well over 150,000km


Ahh yes that was the one :) I'm pretty sure its a exhaust leak, thats what the AA man told me and it runs 5psi in ALL gears, so yeah.....
Levin
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:35 pm

Next

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests