Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **sark.inc** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:20 pm

well i just sheared the woodruff key on the crank for my timing belt, is this common? what causes it? :S

Is there any easy fix or do i have to buy a new crank? :@

by **rollaholic** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:39 pm

its not unheard of on 4age for the keyway to get damaged by the sprocket moving. though i've not heard of one shearing off completely, i guess its only a matter of time.

if you can get the broken bits out and the crank is still in decent nick theres no reason you couldnt throw a new one in. might have to replace the sprocket.

though i once bought a bluetop which had the damaged keyway and sprocket, and i couldnt get the keyway out of the crank. so i built up the damaged areas with that knead-it stuff and put it back together, did the pulley up properly and it went fine for a couple of years. was still going strong when i sold the car

by **sark.inc** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:02 pm

wait i thought the keyway was apart of the crank :S

so i can get a new one?

by **ee904age** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:13 pm

Nope, it's a seperate part. Its called a woodruff key, a half moon shape. The rounded side goes into a matching groove in the crank. A new on should set you back all of $3.

by **sark.inc** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:44 pm

You don't know how happy i am to hear that. :lol:

Website · by **Bling** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:57 pm

Plus the cost of that missing bolt... :wink:

by **sark.inc** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:59 pm

how do you know i am missing the bolt

?

Website · by **Bling** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:01 pm

Wow, there really was a bolt missing? Next you'll be telling me you're not 100% sure you put the spacer in when you built the motor

At least it should be a cheap fix in the end though

by **sark.inc** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:31 pm

I don't know how the bolt came loose but it did :\

i did it up to 200ft pounds and put locktite on it.

p.s yes i did put the spacer on

by **allencr** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:14 pm

sark.inc wrote:I don't know how the bolt came loose...
...did it up to 200ft pounds and put locktite on it.

Neither do I, that's 2 reasons why it should not have come apart and for the bolt to be completely missing is a 3rd thing that should not happen, ever!

This has not happened by accident but by a major mistake in putting it together and will certainly happen again unless something is done completely different.

I can barely begin to guess, was it 200 inch pounds & not 200 foot pounds?[/b]

by **sark.inc** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:43 am

it was 200ft pounds, well according to the ratings on the rattle gun, guess it will teach me to use a torque wrench next time

258ft if the specs are to be truly believed.

btw is there any specific locktite i should be using or none at all?

by **Burning Angel** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:33 am

sark.inc wrote:it was 200ft pounds, well according to the ratings on the rattle gun, guess it will teach me to use a torque wrench next time

258ft if the specs are to be truly believed.

btw is there any specific locktite i should be using or none at all?

loctite is a friction modifier so should reduce the torque to get the bolt 'tight'.
but you cant know the exact amount to reduce the torque with out testing so id just leave it dry.

in the aw11 service manual it only shows 101ft-lbs for the crank bolt and to do it dry.(i assume this is a 16v)

by **jondee86** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 10:47 am

16V 4AGE Repair Manual specs 87 ft-lbs. Anything like 200 ft-lbs
would have stretched the bolt so much, that I would have expected
it to have broken then and there !!! Torque wrench FTW

Cheers... jondee86

by **matt dunn** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:15 pm

sark.inc wrote:it was 200ft pounds, well according to the ratings on the rattle gun, guess it will teach me to use a torque wrench next time

So you did it up with a rattle gun and hoped it would be right
without actually using a torque wrench??

by **allencr** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 3:28 am

sark.inc wrote:...it will teach me...

So the bolt isn't missing, it's sheared off in there + thread lock. :oops:

May I ask which unnecessary Loctite was used, the hard to remove or the really hard to remove + alot of heat type? "roll:
Sorry, good luck.

by **RedMist** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:53 am

I'd also be surprised if the keyway isn't also damaged. You'll have to check that it's square and the new woodruf key fits snug otherwise you'll simply do the same thing again in quick order.
In fact all surfaces need to be perfect. The keyway, the key and the pulley.

by **sark.inc** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:19 pm

matt dunn wrote:
sark.inc wrote:it was 200ft pounds, well according to the ratings on the rattle gun, guess it will teach me to use a torque wrench next time

So you did it up with a rattle gun and hoped it would be right
without actually using a torque wrench??

yeap, was a "she'll be right." sorta thing

p.s it was 243 iirc, the blueone that can be removed with hand tools, truth be told i never had the rattle gun on max so yeah it's any bodys guess as to what it was actually set at. also it's a silvertop so god knows if the engine is rooted.

Also i assume the key is simply pressed in? nothing used to "glue" it in?

p.s to me it looks still sweet, it somehow damaged the balancer, i can take pics if wanted, imo just needs a little clean up but meh :s

p.s i also still have the woodruf key and no damage on it.. :S

oh also i did not shear off the woodruff key, it just broke through the harmonic balancer. :S

by **rollaholic** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:50 am

new pulley, new key and tighten properly

by **sergei** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:52 am

Clean the crank surface with fine sand paper from the scuffs and rust (1500 grit) before putting on new pulley.

by **sark.inc** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:10 pm

does anyone know what torque it should be?

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