Caldina GT-T tinkering

[wobbly]

thought i would move this to a new thread, instead of leaving it in Newbie (welcome) section. here we are...

142dB, gotta be happy/deaf with that
Extractors, probably not so much, given the turbo is part of the exhaust manifold. Decent intake and exhaust will make a difference, and I'm sure you can improve on the standard intercooler.

Welcome on board

sweet cheers, ive heard intercoolers are not really worth doing, aparently only really efficiant if your doing over 100km/ph or something? not sure if this is true or not? also heard aftermarket wastegates are dodgy with caldinas? also not sure if this is true?

what i do have tho is a k&n card filter to replace factory one, dont really notice a difference apart from the fuel gauge drops faster, am i better off gettin a whole pod thing?
and also what is a good brand of exhaust to get? i like the look of twin pipes either side, but as long as its a nice (legal) rumble, and more power,
also should i take the cat converter out?
sorry about all the questions, cheers guys

[Kiwi-Corolla]

am i better off gettin a whole pod thing?

Fitting a cold air intake (CAI) makes a very noticeable difference in power delivery and it reduces the turbo lag. This involves routing the pod filter outside of the engine bay and just behind the bumper on the passenger's side. Whatever you do, DON'T just run an open pod filter in the engine bay as it will kill your performance.

I wrote a DIY about how to make a CAI for a 98' Caldina after I made one for my brother's GT-T. Here's the link:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showt ... p?t=351484

[gt4dude]

Looks good ... and effective!

[wobbly]

am i better off gettin a whole pod thing?

Fitting a cold air intake (CAI) makes a very noticeable difference in power delivery and it reduces the turbo lag. This involves routing the pod filter outside of the engine bay and just behind the bumper on the passenger's side. Whatever you do, DON'T just run an open pod filter in the engine bay as it will kill your performance.

I wrote a DIY about how to make a CAI for a 98' Caldina after I made one for my brother's GT-T. Here's the link:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showt ... p?t=351484

hey thanks heaps, this looks like a really good tutorial. ive never done any work under the hood of cars before, might have to give it a crack i think, reading on i noticed a guy had a factory bov, would it be easier to get an aftermarket one? and are they illegal to vent into atmosphere in nz? also lookin at mines ecu chip, where would you come across these? been lookin on ebay and trademe but nothing. is there a website that specialize in these? cheers

[vr4boy]

BOV can vent into atmosphere

[Kiwi-Corolla]

hey thanks heaps, this looks like a really good tutorial. ive never done any work under the hood of cars before, might have to give it a crack i think, reading on i noticed a guy had a factory bov, would it be easier to get an aftermarket one? and are they illegal to vent into atmosphere in nz? also lookin at mines ecu chip, where would you come across these? been lookin on ebay and trademe but nothing. is there a website that specialize in these? cheers

No problem . If you happen to have any questions just let me know. It's a simple job if you take your time and follow the tutorial. You can buy the piping off TradeMe, as well as the silicone hoses.

It's legal to vent the BOV to the atmosphere here in New Zealand, as vr4boy mentioned above. If you decide to make a CAI you're going to have to get an aftermarket BOV anyway since you need to remove the airbox where the stock one mounts to.

As for the Mine's ECU chip, there's not a site that you can buy them from as far as I know. My brother bought his on TradeMe, but they're very rare. They typically got installed in Japan, so the chances of finding one are slim, unless you ring every wrecker in the country. To my understanding, they were tuned specifically as per the owner's request. For example, if the owner wanted no speed cut and particular fuel mapping they would do it. For that reason they weren't universally mass produced and each one is tuned differently.

[gt4dude]

You can even vent the factory bov to atmo, it doesnt sound the best and its not a very responsive bov to handle atmo but it does work for the mean time.

to do it right may aswell have an auto engineer source and tig weld the bits you need to do a custom setup, it seems to work out cheaper than buying a whole lot of silicone joiners and hose clamps and you can have exactly what you want

[wobbly]

thanks heaps guys, but damn have you seen how many BOV are on trademe? i thort it was just hks and turbosmart, im guessing stay away from the taiwan ones?

and difference between wastegates and BoV?
and sizes? am guessing a 38mm is a standard size?

have been lookin on TM...i guess im lookin at...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 260859.htm
or
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 327948.htm
any issues with any of these 2?

[sergei]

There is nothing wrong with standard BOV.

[Kiwi-Corolla]

thanks heaps guys, but damn have you seen how many BOV are on trademe? i thort it was just hks and turbosmart, im guessing stay away from the taiwan ones?

and difference between wastegates and BoV?
and sizes? am guessing a 38mm is a standard size?

have been lookin on TM...i guess im lookin at...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 260859.htm
or
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 327948.htm
any issues with any of these 2?

Unless you plan on upping your boost substantially, I wouldn't bother getting an external wastegate right now. The standard wastegate actuator does a more than adequate job. If you were to get an external wastegate it would be best to also go for an aftermarket exhaust manifold and turbo, as the exhaust manifold would have a flange already welded onto it.

As for the BOV, definitely stay away from the knock-off ones. The one you provided the link to would work well, and would be easy to install as it comes with the adapter. All you'd need to do is remove your stock BOV and slip the new one into the same hose (and hook up the vacuum line of course). The SSQV BOV's make a chirping noise when they release the boost pressure, a bit like a whistle on a rugby field or a bird. If you're after a "pshhh" sound then steer clear of the SSQV BOV's and look at something like a Blitz Dual Drive.

[wobbly]

good as, will start buyin some of this pipping and stuff, just in your tutorial:
* 1x 90-degree 2.5" alloy pipe (600mm long)
* 1x 45-degree 2.5" alloy pipe (600mm long)
* 1x 90-degree silicone reduced (3" to 2.5")
* 1x 45-degree silicone joiner (2.5" to 2.5")
* 7x hose clamps

im guessing you mean 135-degree instead of 45?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =384862080
and 5 hose clamps?
and does the pod filter come with adapters from 3.5" to 2.5"?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =384399203

[Kiwi-Corolla]

good as, will start buyin some of this pipping and stuff, just in your tutorial:
* 1x 90-degree 2.5" alloy pipe (600mm long)
* 1x 45-degree 2.5" alloy pipe (600mm long)
* 1x 90-degree silicone reduced (3" to 2.5")
* 1x 45-degree silicone joiner (2.5" to 2.5")
* 7x hose clamps

im guessing you mean 135-degree instead of 45?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =384862080
and 5 hose clamps?
and does the pod filter come with adapters from 3.5" to 2.5"?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =384399203

For some reason he lists them on TradeMe as being 135-degree, but they're 45-degree. Yeah 5 hose clamps in correct (you only need to buy 4 as one is included with the pod filter). I'm trying to think why I wrote 7. I remember counting them but looking back now there's only 5 . Unless otherwise stated, the pod filter doesn't come with the reducers. You can buy a 65mm (2.5") reducer from him (broomfish) for $5.

[wobbly]

Legend... cheers

[Lith]

sweet cheers, ive heard intercoolers are not really worth doing, aparently only really efficiant if your doing over 100km/ph or something? not sure if this is true or not?

Intercoolers are radiators, don't think of them as something which actively cool your intake charge down - they actually absorb the heat from the intake change and radiates it into the air around it. The more air flowing over the intercooler, the better it can radiate its heat away and the more heat it can absorb from the intake charge - so yeah, they work better when you are moving but they will always work.

The bigger the intercooler, the longer it will take to heat soak so the better it is in low airflow conditions - or really in any conditions.

[rollaholic]

i read a really interesting article about intercoolers in light of what lith just mentioned - you have to think of them as heat sinks. he applied this to the idea of an intercooler water spray, and built himself a unit that would respond to various inputs to maintain the temperature of the cooler at a respectable level.

i dont remember who or where it was now, but google should reveal it

[Malcolm]

Intercoolers are radiators, don't think of them as something which actively cool your intake charge down - they actually absorb the heat from the intake change and radiates it into the air around it. The more air flowing over the intercooler, the better it can radiate its heat away and the more heat it can absorb from the intake charge - so yeah, they work better when you are moving but they will always work.

The bigger the intercooler, the longer it will take to heat soak so the better it is in low airflow conditions - or really in any conditions.

careful about muddling your terms there, heat transfer due to radiation occurs at a rate that's related to surface temperature and the emissivity of the surface with no dependance on airflow, and is in fact the only mechanism of heat transfer that can occur in a vacuum (and is how the earth receives heat from the sun).

Conduction is the heat transfer mechanism that is dominant with intercoolers (and radiators, despite the name), and this is the one that depends on mass air flow over the intercooler.

To the OP, wherever you found the information that "intercoolers are not really worth doing, aparently only really efficiant if your doing over 100km/ph or something?", I suggest you never listen to any information from that source again

[strx7]

one of the most educational things you could ever do in a turbo'd car is fit an inlet air temp gauge and drive it places keeping tabs on what the temps are. give you a really good understanding of how they work.
they are basically a heat sink.

[wobbly]

interesting read guys, think i could learn alot from you people.
will prolly start a thread later this week when stuff turns up and start installing it,
finally tho, will prolly go to magoo mufflers or something tomoro and suss out exhaust, whats a typical price i should pay for good exhaust system, should i stick to a brand? should i take the cat converter out?
thanks

[GDII]

I posted in your new members thread. Must have missed it. The cat has been gutted. I did it myself, unless a new one has been installed and the exhaust has already been done. You might want to try and contact AJz on here as he used to own it and he did a few minor mods to it.

[gt4dude]

The SSQV BOV's make a chirping noise when they release the boost pressure, a bit like a whistle on a rugby field or a bird. If you're after a "pshhh" sound then steer clear of the SSQV BOV's and look at something like a Blitz Dual Drive.

My HKS SSQV goes Tutututu



Heh. Plumb back insert piece FTW