2jzgte Ignition issue

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2jzgte Ignition issue

Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:40 pm

So driving the other day and the car came up with a engine fault and droped ignition on cylinders. Ive tested resistance from coil plugs back to the ignitor and it seems fine. Checked coil resistance, couldnt get probs in to the back one but they all read 1.1 Ohms? Useing: http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%2 ... 20(2JZ-GTE).pdf as a guide this seems a tad high? Is this my problem or keep looking?
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Postby Lloyd » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:45 pm

Simple resistance tests don't tend to show up coil issues unless they're completely stuffed, in which case you'll get no spark at all.

Is it consistantly dropping a single cylinder, or more than one? Any fault codes in the engine computer? Does it play up under load or all the time? Checked your spark plugs?
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Postby Mr Ree » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:45 pm

What fault code did it throw mate?
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:51 pm

It droped several cylinders, and wouldn't rev above 1,200rpm and had no power. Would come right for a moment then go again. Its a very similar symptom to what the car had a few months ago, which was fixed by getting the coil plugs redone. Havn't pulled codes yet, which termianls do you short?
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:14 pm

Just took the first coil set out.... how much oil around the is a bad thing?
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:27 pm

Got all the coils out now, all the plugs have oil sitting around them (enough that I cant see the hex on most). My guess is this is my problem?
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:28 pm

yea that definatley isn't good anyway, new rocker cover gaskets should sort that out easy enough.
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Postby Mr Ree » Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:01 pm

Terminals you need to short are E1 and TE1, then turn ign on and watch the engine fault light and count the flashes carefully.

Clean up all the coils/boots/spark plugs/spark plug valley etc, and replace the cam cover gaskets, making sure that you have all the metal capped rubber washers in place that secure the cam covers, and place a dab of FIPG on each side of the cam "humps" at the front of the head to ensure a good seal.

Also note the torque specs are in in/lbs so you need a small torque wrench to do it properly. Overtightened covers are one of the biggest reasons they leak, not to mention risking breaking the cam covers themselves.

GL
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:05 pm

Mr Ree wrote: and place a dab of FIPG on each side of the cam "humps" at the front of the head to ensure a good seal.
GL

dab of what??
And any idea what the torque setting is?
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Postby Lloyd » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:33 pm

Anything decent sealer. ThreeBond stuff etc. And basically just don't over tighten them. People get hung up on torque settings
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Postby FLAWLES » Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:46 pm

honestly

you plugs have not been gaped correctly/opened up or possibly wrong heat range

get a feeler gauge and check them they should be 0.6 to 0.8mm pending on how much boost your feeding it
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:25 pm

FLAWLES wrote:honestly

you plugs have not been gaped correctly/opened up or possibly wrong heat range

get a feeler gauge and check them they should be 0.6 to 0.8mm pending on how much boost your feeding it

why this conclusion? Would it not have done this from when the plugs went in 6 months ago?
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Postby Mr Ree » Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:09 pm

FIPG is toyota form in place gasket, but any good rtv will suffice.

The torque settings are in the TSRM too :)
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Postby Jason T » Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:32 pm

Stott69 wrote:Just took the first coil set out.... how much oil around the is a bad thing?
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Take the blue boots of check for cracks / white spots were they are arcing many forums show how to use resign to repair and re test with out boots before replacing
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Postby Stott69 » Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:03 am

Yea Ive been watching the thread on the jzs147 forum unfold. These look fine so far tho.
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Postby Stott69 » Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:58 pm

Up date on this, in the prosess of changinging gaskets. But whats the best way to clean out the oil around the plugs? Currently thinking about removing plugs and letting oil drin into the cylinders?? will this just cause smoke for awhile? Secound thing is Ill need to buy a spark plug socket, what size are they so I dont have to buy every one to get it right?
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Postby BlakeNZ » Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:47 am

Don't drain the oil into the cylinders.DON"T.
try shoving rags down there with a bit of wire or stick to soak up the bulk of it. Do you have access to a compressor to blow the oil out of the recesses?
IF I don't tell you the spark plug remover is 16mm, you won't be able to drop that oil with contaminants into the cylinders will you?
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Postby Stott69 » Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:04 am

Alright, Ill listen to your wisdom, but will still take the plugs out once the bulk of the oil is out so I can clean the rest of the oil off them
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Postby Mr Ree » Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:51 am

Do you have a suction gun? Thats what I used, with a skinny pipe on it to get all the excess out before removing the plugs.

Then a rag wrapped around the spark plug socket soaked in brakleen to get rid of EVERY bit of oil residue before refitting plugs/coils etc.
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Postby Stott69 » Sat Jun 23, 2012 4:45 pm

Well car started up on all 6! 8). Only a little bit of oil smoke
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