Air intake ideas....

[fx]

I've got an '93 FXGT and would love to see some pics of how/what they have done looks like... I'm keen to do something similar to mine, so if anyone has this or has done it on theres further help would be appreciated

[Loudtoy]

I've got an '93 FXGT and would love to see some pics of how/what they have done looks like... I'm keen to do something similar to mine, so if anyone has this or has done it on theres further help would be appreciated

Damn i was going to say check out pictures of the cold air intake on my old car that were up here! Seems they posted so long ago they have been deleted Anyhow cost me a grand total of $127 including the pod and adaptor for the afm! Battery to boot convo cost me aprox $50 and i had a net result of 92kw atw on a dyno where other 101's with exhaust and pod made around 83 kw atw! Most of the others didn't have much in the way of a intake but the one with exhaust and panel replacement made 81!
BTW the intake and exhaust were the only mods apart from catch can that the car had done to it!

Note that if you do put a pod on an ae101 with a decent intake make sure you go to someone who know's how to play with the tension on the afm spring because with a decent cold air intake and cold air feed it will lean out between 3 and 5600 rpm! Just a thing you should know about!

[fx]

I've got an '93 FXGT and would love to see some pics of how/what they have done looks like... I'm keen to do something similar to mine, so if anyone has this or has done it on theres further help would be appreciated

Note that if you do put a pod on an ae101 with a decent intake make sure you go to someone who know's how to play with the tension on the afm spring because with a decent cold air intake and cold air feed it will lean out between 3 and 5600 rpm! Just a thing you should know about!

Not too sound like a dumbass, but could you possibly explain further by what you mean in that last paragraph?! Please, an engine newbie here!!!

[kingcorolla]

Not too sound like a dumbass, but could you possibly explain further by what you mean in that last paragraph?! Please, an engine newbie here!!!

Basicly cold air is more dense, therefore if colder air is being sucked into the engine, the more air in the cylinders. - more bang

the "air flow meter" is a variable resister that lets the ecu know how much air load is on the engine, and adjust fuel to suit load level.

Now what loudtoy is saying, is that when a more free-flowing/colder intake is fitted, it apparently upsets the air flow meter signal to the ecu, and therefore makes it "lean out" (run with less fuel) at high rpm.
He reccomends you take it to someone who knows how to trick the air flow meter signal to stop it leaning out at high rpm.

hope that gives you more an understanding
but i dont know the characteristics of 20v's, im just repeating whats been said

[bigfut]

wheres the best place to get bendy plastic/rubber stuff for some ducting. I got some of that tinfoil type stuff and its to big (circumference) so im trying to find some kind of bendy piping that will fit to the original intake big (aobut 8cm diameter, 4cm radius)

Bunnings Warehouse

[fx]

Not too sound like a dumbass, but could you possibly explain further by what you mean in that last paragraph?! Please, an engine newbie here!!!

Basicly cold air is more dense, therefore if colder air is being sucked into the engine, the more air in the cylinders. - more bang

the "air flow meter" is a variable resister that lets the ecu know how much air load is on the engine, and adjust fuel to suit load level.

Now what loudtoy is saying, is that when a more free-flowing/colder intake is fitted, it apparently upsets the air flow meter signal to the ecu, and therefore makes it "lean out" (run with less fuel) at high rpm.
He reccomends you take it to someone who knows how to trick the air flow meter signal to stop it leaning out at high rpm.

hope that gives you more an understanding
but i dont know the characteristics of 20v's, im just repeating whats been said

Cheers for that, that makes sense to me!!!

Yeah, I'm gonna do a homemade cold air intake, but now will just have to find someone that knows how to do what you said... anyone on here know how to do this? At there job or whatever and are in the Auckland area?

[Disco]

Not too sound like a dumbass, but could you possibly explain further by what you mean in that last paragraph?! Please, an engine newbie here!!!

Basicly cold air is more dense, therefore if colder air is being sucked into the engine, the more air in the cylinders. - more bang

the "air flow meter" is a variable resister that lets the ecu know how much air load is on the engine, and adjust fuel to suit load level.

Now what loudtoy is saying, is that when a more free-flowing/colder intake is fitted, it apparently upsets the air flow meter signal to the ecu, and therefore makes it "lean out" (run with less fuel) at high rpm.
He reccomends you take it to someone who knows how to trick the air flow meter signal to stop it leaning out at high rpm.

hope that gives you more an understanding
but i dont know the characteristics of 20v's, im just repeating whats been said

Cheers for that, that makes sense to me!!!

Yeah, I'm gonna do a homemade cold air intake, but now will just have to find someone that knows how to do what you said... anyone on here know how to do this? At there job or whatever and are in the Auckland area?

Go to meets man and ask someone how it works..

[Loudtoy]

Basicly cold air is more dense, therefore if colder air is being sucked into the engine, the more air in the cylinders. - more bang

the "air flow meter" is a variable resister that lets the ecu know how much air load is on the engine, and adjust fuel to suit load level.

Now what loudtoy is saying, is that when a more free-flowing/colder intake is fitted, it apparently upsets the air flow meter signal to the ecu, and therefore makes it "lean out" (run with less fuel) at high rpm.

Quite correct the only problem with the 20 valve ones is they are a flapper type afm. Basicly because of this the colder denser air doesn't register as anything different from normal factory setup but because it is colder there is more air in the same space if you get my drift here! What happens when you adjust the afm is the flapper tension is less so opens more with less flow and so tricks the ecu into thinking the flow is higher so adding more fuel and compensating for the colder, denser air!
After that it's bacis more fuel + more air is bigger bang theory

Hope that hasn't confused you more because after reading through that i'm not sure it makes sense

[kingcorolla]

Basicly cold air is more dense, therefore if colder air is being sucked into the engine, the more air in the cylinders. - more bang

the "air flow meter" is a variable resister that lets the ecu know how much air load is on the engine, and adjust fuel to suit load level.

Now what loudtoy is saying, is that when a more free-flowing/colder intake is fitted, it apparently upsets the air flow meter signal to the ecu, and therefore makes it "lean out" (run with less fuel) at high rpm.

Quite correct the only problem with the 20 valve ones is they are a flapper type afm. Basicly because of this the colder denser air doesn't register as anything different from normal factory setup but because it is colder there is more air in the same space if you get my drift here! What happens when you adjust the afm is the flapper tension is less so opens more with less flow and so tricks the ecu into thinking the flow is higher so adding more fuel and compensating for the colder, denser air!
After that it's bacis more fuel + more air is bigger bang theory

Hope that hasn't confused you more because after reading through that i'm not sure it makes sense

na that makes perfect sense mate.
Wasent sure if it was a flapper or the wire type, but i ment well

[Loudtoy]

Hey here's the pics of my old setup i was talkig about before - sorry if you've already seen them

viewtopic.php?t=4446&start=20

The pics are at the bottem