SLOTTED BRAKES.....12 or 6 slots

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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Thu Mar 17, 2005 7:15 pm

Al wrote:Now this intrigued me. Why would my car stop quicker if I got better rotors? Arent better rotors there to just dissipate more heat and be able to break as hard for longer? Maybe lose some unsprung weight from the car?

The only reason changing rotors will improve braking is cause they dissapate heat better. Therefore the pad will be less likely to overheat. Also if the pads have glazed over then slotted rotors will help to deglaze thereby recovering lost stopping potential.
Of course you could always get the right pads for the job in the first place. Then you don't really need to worry about pads overheating, or overt glazing....
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Postby Al » Thu Mar 17, 2005 7:20 pm

My question was of the rhetorical type. I knew the answer :wink:
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man!

Postby TRDmod » Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:15 pm

robo, als question wasnt dumb at all, its the difference between a ricer and a racer, ricers buy pretty things, racers buy usefull things....
its like getting blooody neons on your car.....nothing against it, but neons doesnt give you a nuclear reactor on your car that will giv eyou faster than light speeds.......

i have also read that crossdrilled that are cheap nasty DBA bnt replaceents are just cruddy, im not gonna pay for expensive brembos that are cast with holes, WHY? cos they are expensive and id ont need that, i want a road/racer, not a pure racer...and yes, if you can lock up ur wheels wiht out effort, then why upgrade it unless ur gonna use it for track...even drag racing unless your putting some hardcore speeds and time....u can stick to your standard discs......slotted and cross discs are predominantly for rally or track use as far as im concerned - so quit selling us bnt replacements:) and dont treat people with real questions like they are lesser than you...cos it is apparent that everyone here, is not siding iwth you pall......

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Postby KinLoud » Fri Mar 18, 2005 1:57 pm

Putting it (very) basically, braking force = pad area x friction coefficient x disk diameter.
If you have slotted or drilled brakes the pads will contact less area - therefore you may well have less braking force. If you do decide to go with slotted brakes go for less slots rather than more slots.

If you reduce the mass of the disk it will be lighter..... however the mass of the disk is important! Braking turns the kinetic energy of the car into heat.
If you have a low mass disk it will get hotter than stopping the same weight car with same speed using disks with greater mass.
If the disk gets hotter - the pads will wear at an increased rate and you are more likely to get brake fade.
Many race cars will use a higher mass disk because higher mass means lower average temperatures. Also, the disk will cool down less between brake applications so the disk will be closer to the ideal temperature to get the best performance from their high performance brake pads (which don't work as well when cool)

Few race cars use "drilled" disks. Those that do have to replace the disks frequently due to the cracks developing from the holes.

"Slots or holes clean the pad and degass the pads" - with new pads during bedding in you may well get brake fade (green fade) due to the binding agent getting its first heat cycles and letting off gas. Some caution during this bedding in period avoids this problem. My understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is that after the initial bedding in period fade due to outgassing is very minimal.

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Postby JT » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:18 pm

http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm

In summary, brake system modifications have their place to help make your ride more consistent, predictable, and user-friendly; however, if your ultimate goal is to decrease your stopping distance, look no further than the four palm-sized patches of rubber connecting your ride to the ground

This doesn't mean that slotted or cross-drilled rotors are a waste of time, rather make sure you are getting them for the right reasons.
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yes

Postby TRDmod » Fri Mar 18, 2005 11:58 pm

but you must also look at the fact that drilled brakes have more surface area taken away than slotted....i mean 12 slot brakes have 7-8 percent taken off, that is then helping the pad deglase and have more bite...cool it better and degas it which inturn even out the lessened rotor surface, which is almost negledgible in the first place......but if you have cross drilled, unless you have a two piece custom set up...ones im talking ab out are that ones that require you to hvae extremely large wheels to accomodate the extremely large 6-8 piston calipers.....then you can get cross drilled, CAST rotors, so the holes are cast at the production of the rotor as opposed to drilled after......drilled so its lighter but due to the extremely large pads and calipers, its ok........

anyways, i was also reading an article that 12 slots are not bad, hence why i got it, i am considering getting 6 slots at the rear and 12 at the front....due to the fact the front gets most of the flak

thanks for all the feedback....
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Postby ROBODISCO_20v » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:21 pm

vvega wrote:[

the holes are specifically for lightness...thats all
the slots are to were ther to wipe the pads
if you can lock your wheel your aplling maximun force
it dosent get any better than that
if you can explane how you can apply more braking force to the ground than locking a wheel then you are a lost cause
oh thats right we already desided that

please stop the regergataion of sale propgander
i know of 5 people that have cracked there cheap and nasty dba sport rotors or have had them warp
dba is cheap crap
thats it

maybe if you worked in a race shop you would understand what preformace is ...

v


Dude you are a half wit. Do some research before you go make such half assed statments. Do you people not understand that there is a layer of gas between the pad and rotor, you need to break trough this before the pad can touch the rotor, the slots and holes help to disperse this gas quicker so the pads can clamp onto the rotor faster, this is how they stop youre car faster :roll: Yes they do the other things like holes reduce weigth and slotts deglaze pads, but you lot seem to be finding it hard to come to terms with the fact the they make your car stop faster. Its quite simple really. God, Honda drivers are more onto it than you lot :oops:

http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html

http://www.brakeworld.com/slotted-rotors.asp

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=6955

http://www.cyberauto.com/index.php/kvr.htm

Read the articles on these sites and you might learn something. Or are they all wrong too :?:
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Postby Al » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:31 pm

http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html wrote:
Where can I find test data on stopping distances?
At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70mph), the test is primarily testing the tire's grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or lock the wheels at these speeds. Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a shorter distance.




I read. Look what I found. You're right, they arent all wrong, perhaps you are?
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Postby vvega » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:38 pm

ROBODISCO_20v wrote:
vvega wrote:[

the holes are specifically for lightness...thats all
the slots are to were ther to wipe the pads
if you can lock your wheel your aplling maximun force
it dosent get any better than that
if you can explane how you can apply more braking force to the ground than locking a wheel then you are a lost cause
oh thats right we already desided that

please stop the regergataion of sale propgander
i know of 5 people that have cracked there cheap and nasty dba sport rotors or have had them warp
dba is cheap crap
thats it

maybe if you worked in a race shop you would understand what preformace is ...

v


Dude you are a half wit. Do some research before you go make such half assed statments. Do you people not understand that there is a layer of gas between the pad and rotor, you need to break trough this before the pad can touch the rotor, the slots and holes help to disperse this gas quicker so the pads can clamp onto the rotor faster, this is how they stop youre car faster :roll: Yes they do the other things like holes reduce weigth and slotts deglaze pads, but you lot seem to be finding it hard to come to terms with the fact the they make your car stop faster. Its quite simple really. God, Honda drivers are more onto it than you lot :oops:

http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html

http://www.brakeworld.com/slotted-rotors.asp

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=6955

http://www.cyberauto.com/index.php/kvr.htm

Read the articles on these sites and you might learn something. Or are they all wrong too :?:


all those site do mate as al has pointd out is prove that you have no idea.there just markeing bulshit all rapped in a nice bow and there for you to lap up like the litle bunny you are

go back to repco or where ever you come from and sell some shinny stuff to honda owners
because there the only ones(in your words) stupid enough to believe your shit

lol i cant belive it took you that long to respond and even then...hahahahahahahahahahaha
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Postby Adamal » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:45 pm

Exactly what gas is inbetween the rotor and the pad here? :? We're not talking about 'air' are we? Cause thats dispersed easily enough isn't it?
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby vvega » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:45 pm

This phenomenon, known as outgassing, isn’t a problem for vehicles that are driven on the street. However, because brake rotors show through many popular wheel designs, companies do offer cross-drilled and slotted rotors as an option that looks racy.


from enjoy the drive
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Postby ROBODISCO_20v » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:53 pm

Thats 1 out of 4 sites, the rest state quite clearly that out gasing is a problem that slots and cross drilling combat. Dude you obiously have never experienced driving a vehicle fitted with slotted / drilled rotors.
This quick dispersion of gas is why they stop your vehicle faster than solid rotors. Thats the point im trying to get across here. Why is its so difficult for for to come to terms with :?:
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Postby Adamal » Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:57 pm

After reading this 'Enjoy the drive' article, I now understand what outgassing is.
However, they also mention that slotting is a new technique to prevent it.
Would this not also give an advantage over cross-drilled rotors wherein they would not be as fragile? When it comes to warping and developing cracks after being splashed etc.
It may not be as effective as cross-drilling, but definatly does the job by the sounds of it.
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby vvega » Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:06 pm

ROBODISCO_20v wrote:Thats 1 out of 4 sites, the rest state quite clearly that out gasing is a problem that slots and cross drilling combat. Dude you obiously have never experienced driving a vehicle fitted with slotted / drilled rotors.
This quick dispersion of gas is why they stop your vehicle faster than solid rotors. Thats the point im trying to get across here. Why is its so difficult for for to come to terms with :?:


thats the problem you see
i raced bikes for many years and go karts as well
bike are very critial on there brakes more so than cars and from years or "racing" experance i can tell you that outgassing may have been a issue on my older types of aspestos pad but with today modern carbon composite pad outgassing no longer is a issue

now i ask you the same question
why is the fact that you could be wrong so hard for you to come to grips with

you gave us those sites and had i of wanted to i could have picked hole in all of them i only picked that one because it was so blatently obvious that i would have though you yourself when reading it would have seen that and had to think about it

so did you even read the sites before you posted them or do you really want me to pick holes in them all just to make an example.......

i do see you honestly beleive what your saying but well thats your call on that i guess
shame you dont wanna see it ..im sure if you yourself looked to pick holes you would see the crap there tring too feed you to take your money too...


just my thoughts.. something im entilted to

v
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Postby vvega » Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:09 pm

Adamal wrote:After reading this 'Enjoy the drive' article, I now understand what outgassing is.
However, they also mention that slotting is a new technique to prevent it.
Would this not also give an advantage over cross-drilled rotors wherein they would not be as fragile? When it comes to warping and developing cracks after being splashed etc.
It may not be as effective as cross-drilling, but definatly does the job by the sounds of it.


slotting is not new its been around since the 70's
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Postby vvega » Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:18 pm

just to clarafie we are talking about a road car not a race car
these in my mind 2 very differntly setup items

v

v
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Postby KinLoud » Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:18 pm

Toyspeed mega meet trackday 2004 I took a number of people for a ride in my racecar. One was very impressed with how fast it stopped.
Conversation that followed:
Dude - "wow, your car stops really well"
Me - "thanks"
Dude - " you must have put some huge brakes on it!"
Me - "No"
Dude - "they must be slotted"
Me - "No"
Dude - "they must be cross drilled"
Me - "No"
Dude - "well, they must be aftermarket disks"
Me - "No"
Dude - "well what are they?"
Me - "factory disks"
Dude - "you must have fancy race pads"
Me - "No"
Dude - "What pads do you use?"
Me - "Metal Kings Plus"
Dude - "Well how come it stops so well???"
Me - "I push very, very hard on the pedal!"
Dude - "Oh"

If you walk around the pit paddock on a Club raceday you probably won't find many people who have slotted or drilled disks (quite a few will have drum brakes on the rear! though). Most racers just upgrade the pads.

Drilled/slotted disks may have some small benefit but as Al said, the most important thing is how much grip the tyre has.
It's like "Riced" cars you see.... they always seem to be going fast everywhere they go. Does all the bling and shiny bits make the car faster? No, but the driver feels faster and so drives faster... all psychological. I feel that a lot of the "improved braking and performance" experienced with slotted or drilled brakes is that the driver pushes on the gas pedal and brake pedal harder.

Ken
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I used to think that the orange and green tictacs gave you special powers. The orange ones would make you stronger and the green ones would make you faster. So i used to eat some green ones and run around my lounge as fast as i could, then eat the orange ones and try to pick up the sofa. I wish it were true!
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Postby Truenotch » Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:27 pm

ROBDISCO_20v go home to the rice filled hole you crawled out of, you dont understand what you are talking about. I'm not saying I do but at least I dont have a SUPER-RICE 20valver as my avatar.

Anyway I think the best way to go as far as brakes go is standard rotors and a set of mintex pads. Will do you a hell of a lot more for your money than cheap crap bnt replacement discs will. :D
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well

Postby TRDmod » Fri Mar 25, 2005 12:17 am

im still bedding in my new slotteds...i got mines fro znoelli, good service, fits perfectly, looks good, and i dont notice that much difference driving normally, but when i am bedding it in, well is till am, i want to do the bedding procedure over 5-6 times and each time each day in creasing the punishment of these disc, i read that its good to really slowly take them to their limit just just doing it over a day...most cars do it over years with months and years of driving normally, so i want to do this too....

i find that heavy braking, i feel the slots craping the pads, and when it gets a lil warm though i have factory pads......the bite is definatley enhance more so than before, it could be the new rotors itself being better than the old but.....none the less, psychological or not, scientifically, the slots is supposed to help it degas, de glase and to bite better, and it seems to do that, but like i said, when its a lil warm.....

i have the three colour thermal pain on mine, and the green turns white when the rotor is 430 deg celcius, orange turn white when its bout 500 and red turns white bout 600...any over than 600 its reaching critical temp....but if you bed it in right, it can safely touch and go on 580-600 on the track......in conjuction with pads....i havent even turned the green to white yet haha, i have done bedding twice now each time hotter and hotter, so the 3rd or 4th, i will go for turning the green to white....but my pads have max temp of bout 300 i think soo....no good , havd to go on the race track or something, and/or buy mintex m1166 pads that can handle up to 670 d celcius......

anwyays thats what i found...but none the less they do have their merits....it does feel better to brake...
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Postby vvega » Fri Mar 25, 2005 12:33 am

welsome to the world of new disc's they all feel like that :D

v
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