MR2 Fuel consumption?

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Postby Alex B » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:49 pm

Zero_Cool wrote:Please ingore me :roll: heard from a mate when he look at my impreza obviously he doesnt' know what he is talking about then


i too have herd horror stories of changing plugs on subies never done this my self tho....maybe jsut dubmass mechs eh?
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Postby Zero_Cool » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:59 pm

lol he goes to weltech he in second year of a mechanic course and he couldn't fit on an oil filter even thou it was the right one 8O
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Postby Zero_Cool » Wed Apr 13, 2005 12:00 am

you should hear my horror story of owning one !!!
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Postby Rasker » Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:24 pm

CozmoNz wrote:man rasker.. thats really bad....

we use heaps coz... boost is fun, and boost uses petrol :S (just blame boost.. just blame boost *says to self*).

are you ringing its nuts out daily?


Nope, that's late night weekend driving, just there is something wrong with this beast, somethings not quite right.
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Postby Dr-X » Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:28 pm

pyro_sniper2002 wrote:
Zero_Cool wrote:Please ingore me :roll: heard from a mate when he look at my impreza obviously he doesnt' know what he is talking about then


i too have herd horror stories of changing plugs on subies never done this my self tho....maybe jsut dubmass mechs eh?


Subbies are actually REALLY easy to work on, if you know your way around them. The reason they're always so expensive to own is because people take them to mechanics who have no experience working on them. Take them to a good subbie specialist (or do the work yourself), and you'll find they're not a very expensive car to maintain.

As for changing plugs - it's simple, you just have to move a couple of things (off the top of my head, you need to remove the windscreen washer bottle and air cleaner assembly - both quick bolt off/bolt on jobs).


On another note - my car has been using an excessive amount of petrol lately - 400-450km's per 50L tank. For the 'economy' series, that's not very good at all :evil:
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:12 pm

Dr-X wrote:
pyro_sniper2002 wrote:
Zero_Cool wrote:Please ingore me :roll: heard from a mate when he look at my impreza obviously he doesnt' know what he is talking about then


i too have herd horror stories of changing plugs on subies never done this my self tho....maybe jsut dubmass mechs eh?


As for changing plugs - it's simple, you just have to move a couple of things (off the top of my head, you need to remove the windscreen washer bottle and air cleaner assembly - both quick bolt off/bolt on jobs).


i couldnt quite understand what these guys were going on about..

removing manifolds and crap? no.. just a few bits of plastic.. then lean down with your ratchet, and undo them...

its fun changing plugs over and over agian, it kept fouling them every time we turned it back off...

you hear about their little *lets crack pistons* problems?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:15 pm

dr-x wrote:Subbies are actually REALLY easy to work on


not all, turbos are a bitch... very cramped.... and tight
so in comparison id say they can be more difficult than the avergae.. .oh lets say toyota :wink:

as for MR2 fuel economy, the 3sgte can be a bit thirsty round town, depends how ya drive it!
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:17 pm

cosmo..... think.. subarus.... toyota V6s.....
then you will understand
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:18 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:
dr-x wrote:Subbies are actually REALLY easy to work on


not all, turbos are a bitch... very cramped.... and tight
so in comparison id say they can be more difficult than the avergae.. .oh lets say toyota :wink:

as for MR2 fuel economy, the 3sgte can be a bit thirsty round town, depends how ya drive it!


very very very true... gf can manage to get to her house and back (around 50 km's) without the petrol guage barly moving. I drive there and we lose quarter of a tanc >.> go figure.

im really starting to notice how good a 20v is on petrol, hoon it and shell use *lots* but my god.. 10% throttle and you use BARLY any. i love the thing :D.

just needs lowered now.... stupid sitting in it like a hilux....

ah, mr revhead, can you quote me the price of a NEW tps sensor for a Blacktop 20v?
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Postby Wildcard » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:20 pm

Gen3 3SGE MR2 - 350km round town
Gen3 3SGTE [modified] MR2 - 330km round town

Those are the mean figures from my can before and after the engine swap. Conclusion - Can't complain.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:28 pm

cosmo........ look below........
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:56 pm

yeh ;) but i didnt pm, i *posted*.

owned!, well not really...

e-mail sending now! ROARRRR

bonzai.... . ok yeh >.>
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Postby Adamal » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:28 pm

CozmoNz wrote:yeh ;) but i didnt pm, i *posted*.

owned!, well not really...



Bye-bye discount ;)
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Postby Chickenman » Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:26 pm

Mine was as standard as anything (Until I grafted a tree onto it)and got 300k's to the tank.

Before I got a few seals replaced on the mazda I was doing 200k's to a tank (16lbs of boost then though)

As someone said before... boost = no gas last long very.
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Postby FLAWLES » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:31 pm

Dr-X wrote:Subbies are actually REALLY easy to work on, if you know your way around them. The reason they're always so expensive to own is because people take them to mechanics who have no experience working on them. Take them to a good subbie specialist (or do the work yourself), and you'll find they're not a very expensive car to maintain.

As for changing plugs - it's simple, you just have to move a couple of things (off the top of my head, you need to remove the windscreen washer bottle and air cleaner assembly - both quick bolt off/bolt on jobs).




Sorry for going of topic here but i just have to, its jsut a parts guy thing

but wtf
subbies easy to work on wtf? even if you do take them to a mech who knows what he/she is doing its still going to hurt you
winger subbie in hams charge out rate is $68 something dollars an hr, most mech are that now " $50 to $70 an hr "
so lets say you want to do a cam belt

subject 92 wrx ej20 blah blah blah motor
cam belt = rrp $102.31 not incl g.s.t
tensioner " non hydr " rrp $ 77.74
oh wait my five idler bearings are poked
5 x rrp $ 59.25
oh dam the tenson on the new belt is to great crap i need a new oil pump seal and four cam shaft seal all costing $20 to $30 each
plus i think the four to five hour labour cost

total $704.58 incl gst and no labour

oh next subject is a tezza 3sge beams " mr revhead correct me if im wrong here please "

belt = rrp $45
tensoner = $ 55
idlers 1) = rrp $55
idler 2) = rrp $50
labour i think at 60 time like two to three hours

total $ 230.62 incl gst no labour

all parts in question are genuine from the dealers
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Postby FLAWLES » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:33 pm

but going back on topic

it depends how you drive the car

my gtz........ lets just say i never have gas ha or front tryes.... dam schorchers
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:04 pm

bs those prices you quoted MUST i repeat MUST be completely wrong.

Southern Motor court is doing *quad or single cam* subaru Legacy's cam belts for $600.

Inc labour, all parts.
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Postby Dr-X » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:18 pm

Four to five hours changing a cambelt on a subbie? Who's the retard doing that LOL! It takes an hour for a good mech to change a subbie belt - add all that other stuff and 2 - 2.5 hours max. Subbie cambelts are rediculasly easy to change.

And picking out one expensive mechanic doesnt mean jack. Here in Tauranga, the best subbie mechanic - Hamish from H & N Automotive charges $42/hr approx. PF Automotive, subbie specialists, are about the same rate as a normal mechanic.
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Postby 10k 20v » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:49 pm

but remember parts are not "expensive" for subies, it's just that there's so many of them. If you wanted everything replaced (waterpump, idlers, tensioner, cambelt) on you quad cam subie your looking at a $900 bill.

but yes, the cambelts are easy to change, the engines are easy to take out but there's just soo many damn bits in them.

my rebuild on my tt legacy cost me $1100 for just parts, not including pistons, rings or the s/hand crank and rod
Last edited by 10k 20v on Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Adamal » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:49 pm

Took 2 days to do the cam belt in my SW20
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