Help Me!!!20v help

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Postby sergei » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:11 am

johntramp wrote:
sergei wrote:you have to only supply 12v to ECU (in couple of places, will get error code if not), 12v to fuel pump, and jump the start switch and the car should idle/run fine (except that you will get error code for speed sensor which is routed through the speedometer).


Hey I am trying to wire a blacktop into an AE85. Is there anything more than this? At the moment I am getting no spark or anything when I turn the car over. I think the ecu is not turning on. Is there any chance you can elaborate on this, ie what couple of places etc? I have a pinout diagram for the ecu and have done what I thought would be enough to have it start... but there is nothing.

Cheers


E01, E02 should be connected to chassis (ground)
E1,E2 should be connected to engine (ground)
BATT should be connected to permanent 12v (15A "EFI" fuse)
B+ should be connected to "Ignition" switch.
STA should be connected to Starter circuit (+12 when cranks)

to test start connect all the grounds, and supply BATT/B+ with 12V, supply 12V to fuel pump relay (this should be wired with FC later on).

if all grounds are connected the car should start fine.
here is the stolen diagram (from club4ag)
Image
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Postby matt9ball » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:43 pm

ok ive got my car back and put new afm in and battery.the car doesnt even start now.the injector colours are pale orange.and i can not find the 3/4 brown earth wires to earth the ecu?? :?:
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Postby sergei » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:35 pm

look at the ECU plugs, there should be 2 brown wires next to each other, trace them, they should branch off to a "mini" loom wich should be bolt on to chassis.
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Postby sergei » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:39 pm

also do you have jumper leads? if yes, then use one lead to connect negative (-) on the battery to engine (or gearbox, any place like head or even metal hook next to throttle bodies), try cranking now...
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Postby johntramp » Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:48 am

Hey thanks for that sergei, and sorry for stealing some of this thread :)

One thing tho,
sergei wrote:B+ should be connected to "Ignition" switch.

do you mean that this is an ACC?


Cheers
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:00 am

no it should be IG1 or IG2 ...
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Postby matt9ball » Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:09 pm

tryed to earth to engine from chassis no change still wouldnt start!i can see those two brown wires but cant find where they are going after they come out the fire wall and left with some others towards the starter motor???should i try cut them and earth to something else???and wire them back up if no change???
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:33 pm

Does the engine check light up when ignition on?
Does the engine cranks when you try to start?
Do you have multimeter?
Measure Voltage (ignition on) to Chassis then Resistance if 0v (ignition off) shown at the following pins (counting left to right clock wise):
16 pin connector: 9 (brown)
26 pin connector: 13 (brown), 14 (brown), 26 (brown)
all pins above should be 0v and 0Ohm respectively
Measure Voltage (ignition on) on the following pins:
22 pin connector: 1 (red-white), 12,13 (black red) (should be 12v on all of them with ignition on and only on pin #1 with ignition off).
Measure Voltage when crancking:
22 pin connector: 11 (black) - should be 12 when cranking (or trying to crank).
If your car does not crank but you have all the lights lighting up on the dash, check auto connector under bonnet, becuase you are using auto loom you should have the connector left for auto trans. On that connector there should be 2 fat sockets in which is possible to fit a normal blade type fuse, these should be connected either by fuse or other means, the wire colour are black and black with white stripe, and these wires are relatively fat. If you dont have anything there, jump them together. The connector should be under inlet pipe (close to AFM) but it can be tucked anywhere...
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:46 pm

Oh I almost forgot, make sure that resistance between pin 22 (black-white) and pin 11 (black) is 0Ohm on 22 pin connector (they should be jumped). these are actually 2 wires which should be jumped in first place to make the car start. (they are going to that Auto connector I wrote earlier about).
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Postby Zyros » Wed Mar 22, 2006 5:00 pm

Hey Seregei..

For that ECU wiring diagram..
Do you know if those are the same pins for the 'NE' and the G's for a redtop smallport??

Like, same place.. or do you have a wiring ecu diagram for the redtop smallport.. i need to check my 'Ne' and 'G' wires from the ECU for shorts.. which could be causing my misfire.
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 22, 2006 5:28 pm

The wires will be defenetly different. But you might be lucky and the pins might be marked inside the ECU. you will have to open the ECU to have a look.
On redtop 26pin socket:
#3 IGF (Black-Yellow) Ignitor
#4 NE (Red) Distributor
#5 G2 (Green) ~
#17 G- (White) ~
#18 G1 (Black) ~
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Postby matt9ball » Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:32 pm

it does crank it sounds like it wants to start but doesn go all the way!!!ive found two blocked pipes wich come off the fuel rail wich too me look like the fuel return line return line and vaccum line?shold these be blocked off???and there is one other line blocked wich comes from behind the throttle boddies??could this be why its flooding the cylinders???and now it dont start??if you crank it sometimes you here a deep popping from the exhaust??
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