4age running crap -> distributor ?

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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:00 am

matt dunn wrote:
Did you press the brake pedal to release the power from the capacitors in the ECU?

No, I have never heard of that one before :)


If you reconnect the battery and then recheck the codes before you wind the car over,
is the code still there because if they cleared properly, the code should not come back untill it see's RPM from the dist or a cranking signal on the start wire??

Yes the code is there before I start the car.

I will try the brake pedal trick, cheers
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Postby big_boy » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:27 am

also disconect your revcounter & see if that make a difference because if you have a weak power supply coil or leads the rev counter can be the difference between a nice running car & a miss dew to what power is can drag of/from your coil
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:33 am

big_boy wrote:also disconect your revcounter & see if that make a difference because if you have a weak power supply coil or leads the rev counter can be the difference between a nice running car & a miss dew to what power is can drag of/from your coil


alright, I will see if that makes a difference too
thanks
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:47 am

After pressing the brake pedal with the battery disconnected I still get the same error when it's reconnected but before starting the car. :(
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Postby sergei » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:50 am

reoccuring error code after reset possibly is due to fried ECU..
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Postby sergei » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:54 am

It is possible to check if you are actually resetting ECU by introducing new fault code. While the car running disconnect water temperature sensor (two wire plug green? on the thermostat elbow) for 10 sec. Turn off the engine, check for faults code there should be 2, your old one and one for WTS. Reset ECU, and check for codes again, if ECU is fried the WTS code will go away and RPM code will remain (well it is most likely scenario). If WTS code does not dissapear, you are probably not resetting ECU...
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:05 am

Alright, I will try that. Wouldn't the ecu be able to pick up a code before starting if there isn't a complete circuit tho? As the error code says "open or short in G, NE circuit", it should be able to detect that without the car running.

I will have a play with other sensors and see what happens.
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Postby Helious » Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:12 am

what a bitch of a fault
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:29 am

Helious wrote:what a bitch of a fault
heh, yup


It looks like you could be right sergei with the ECU being faulty. It doesn't show up any more error codes when I disconnect sensors. I had the car running with no water temp, tps and knock sensor yet only error 12 showed. I guess that means the diagnostics circuit is screwed.

I will have to find another ECU to try again with.

Cheers
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Postby Helious » Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:32 am

Yeah, try and new ECU bro and go from there..
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