AE92 black 20V - I need more power - any suggestions

[Leon]

blacktop, rods cant handle over reving, hard time, etc
i would talk to company called psp plastics and make the window plastic there should save good weight there, u dont need lenso plastic on sides windows (i can get it if u want know few ppl there) wouldn't touch the front and rear windows as u need lenso plastic for them also scratchs easy,hard to fit and make a good seal.

if your car is going to be a road legal rally car, you can only use Lexan MR10 plastic in it.

[glenb20V]

blacktop, rods cant handle over reving, hard time, etc
i would talk to company called psp plastics and make the window plastic there should save good weight there, u dont need lenso plastic on sides windows (i can get it if u want know few ppl there) wouldn't touch the front and rear windows as u need lenso plastic for them also scratchs easy,hard to fit and make a good seal.

if your car is going to be a road legal rally car, you can only use Lexan MR10 plastic in it.

Whish costs about $700 - $800 for a 1200 x 2400 sheet

[2LTR Rona]

oh yeah Blair, AKA (2LTR Rona), what oil did you say to put in the gearbox? The oil is looking like metalic slush now so I need to change it.

Also havn't tunned it yet, need some sponsored expertise and dyno time. looking at cams too.

you're asking me to remember that now, dam that was months ago

Calling Mr Revhead, Mr Revhead to isle 15 for qustomer query, thank you

I called Warwick (AKA Mr Revhead) while stanind in your garage, so he can answer that one.

[glenb20V]

Cheers Dude

oh yeah Blair, AKA (2LTR Rona), what oil did you say to put in the gearbox? The oil is looking like metalic slush now so I need to change it.

Also havn't tunned it yet, need some sponsored expertise and dyno time. looking at cams too.

you're asking me to remember that now, dam that was months ago

Calling Mr Revhead, Mr Revhead to isle 15 for qustomer query, thank you

I called Warwick (AKA Mr Revhead) while stanind in your garage, so he can answer that one.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

Glen, what did Kelfords quote you?

[RedMist]

Unfortunately or fortunately depending on your perspective. The Blacktop is a pretty good engine stock.
The airbox and bent ram tubes are limiting, however in a FWD car you are pretty stuck. Straight tubes of identical length to stock or 17.5 inches from valve face to bellmouth (from memory) and a better standoff to the back wall of the airbox does release a few ponies, but I very much doubt you'll be able to do this in a FWD car.
The inlet manifold to head doesnt match up directly and has about a 10 degree pitch on it. If you're handy at machining you could make up a spacer to remove this bend.
There is a pocket of air that sits behind the inlet choke and creates a velocity hole. Its just beyond the inlet manifold face. Again a spacer could correct this issue.

Silvertop rods are pretty much a given for any modified blacktop. Blacktop rods are considerably lighter than that of the silvertop and have a propensity to ventilate the block.

You're best performance gains are to be had looking at the area under the power curve for the RPM you that you typically travel through. IE if you hit just below the limiter consistantly then cam it hard and gear it tight. If you have variation then a wider power band and gearset is needed. As you have a Link I would be datalogging to show the RPM that you spend time in and simply build to suit. SerialLink, USBLink, USB cable and either a laptop or PDA are very useful tools.

In addition its hard to tune Link acceleration fields on a dyno and you may find that the car may either be rich or lean on acceleration, with resulting problems pulling out of corners. If you have the money, a wideband O2 sensor and controller is another great tool. I'm running the Innovate LC1 on a Link Plus G3. I've in the past run various LEM's with narrowband and a Cassiopeia, which gave average results. Unfortunately I cant give an indication as to wither or not you should increase or decrease these zones. My offroader was tuned by five different tuners, each had considerably different values in these fields.

Cams are the real deal in shifting power to where its useable. Kelford have some very good blacktop rally cams that were used in Miles Levy's offroader with great success. Claimed 212hp, although I doubt this it was a bloody quick offroader. Miles ran stock pistons but milled the block and head to produce 12.5:1 compression. Big cams reduce dynamic compression so an increase in static compression is needed.

[glenb20V]

Blacktop rods are considerably lighter than that of the silvertop and have a propensity to ventilate the block.

Nice quote. Extra block ventalation would make it run cooler.
Thanks for the info mate, confirms my suspisions on a couple of things, i.e. cams, O2 and comp.

Santa, $800 +gst. I might just keep thrashing till the end of the year and then do some work.

[johntramp]

you would need valve springs to go with the cams, which are around $20 ea.

[RedMist]

you would need valve springs to go with the cams, which are around $20 ea.

Dont forget the adjustable cam pulleys.

[AceSniper]

kelfords are like 910$ incl or sumthen
TRD springs $360 ish
Cam gears .... depends what you dint but not cheap

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

im in the process of deciding what to do to mine at the mo,
so far ive got ST rods, LEM G3.
broken motor is finally our of the car and time to spend moolah!