tie rod end ball joint

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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:56 am

Mr Revhead wrote:one more tip

count the turns when you take it off :wink: so it goes back on in same place


are you talking about when you remove the tie rod from the rack end?
btw: how much for two new tie rod ends to suit ee80 corolla? lol
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Postby Bling » Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:00 am

check his post on previous page, has all the info on how to get a price from him.

places like super cheap etc have them too
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Postby 79rolla » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:17 pm

xsspeed wrote:
79rolla wrote:(bit late for you now tho i think..)


lol i think so, i took my frustration out on it.
Anywho they probably need replacing cos i cant remember having them done before. And there were alignment issues to start with.


it broke so it needed replacing anyway ay :P
Current:KE30 my baby,ke35 (now going to get the 2t treatment),isuzu spacecab ute
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:22 pm

you got it lol

went back at it this morning, and it seems it isnt coming off, is th ebit everyone suggests i hit the hub steering bit
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Postby 79rolla » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:24 pm

not sure if it would work but if you are hitting it in the right place and its truly stuck maby heating with gas torch would help??
Current:KE30 my baby,ke35 (now going to get the 2t treatment),isuzu spacecab ute
past: AE82 FXGT
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:26 pm

propane propane

when i go back out ill give it a man bash.
should the threaded bolt come out or the ball joint pop off the top?
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Postby Zak » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:27 pm

This is what it come out like... http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/80end_500.jpg

Just hit it as hard as you can. If you have two hammers, get some one else to hold on against the steering arm on the other side to your hitting. It will come out, just needs a man hit as they say :lol:

All though, reading why your taking it off, you don't need to remove them to get the cv's out.

But never mind, at least you learn some thing from it.
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:29 pm

i was just going by the haines guide, What other method do i get the cvs out?

Just need to disengage them from the box
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Postby Zak » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:34 pm

Just remove the 3 lower bolts that hold your hub to the lower suspension arm. Swing the hub out, and you can just get the cv past. It's tight, but you can get it.
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:39 pm

one man hit just then and it came out,
must have loosened it earler :lol:

think im still gunna have to undo some of the suspension to get the cv out tho rnt i?
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:50 pm

so should i now be undoing the nuts and bolt that connect the other ball joint to the lower arm?
think thats what you were saying before anyway
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:49 pm

ok figured it out, the left side was sweet. Drivers side not so much, The cv boot nearest the hub had already come off, meant that i couldnt get a great grip undoing the nuts and bolt on th lower arm, got one nut off, but now the remaining nut and bolt have chewed a bit. Any tips on getting them off?
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Postby Zak » Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:13 pm

Soak them in crc, if they are really bad you can hit a slightly smaller socket onto to get it off, or vice grips. if that doesn't work you can undo the top bolts instead that go to the shock. just be carefull not to damage the brake line if you do.

It pays to just take the calipar off if your going to do that, and tie it up out of the way.
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Postby Lloyd » Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:31 pm

If you want to get the CV out then all you should need to undo is the CV nut and the bottom 3 nuts/bolts that bold the bottom ball joint in. With those off you should be able to swing everything out of the way
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Dec 29, 2007 7:43 pm

HRT wrote:If you want to get the CV out then all you should need to undo is the CV nut and the bottom 3 nuts/bolts that bold the bottom ball joint in. With those off you should be able to swing everything out of the way


its those bottom three that are troublesome

Zak wrote:Soak them in crc, if they are really bad you can hit a slightly smaller socket onto to get it off, or vice grips. if that doesn't work you can undo the top bolts instead that go to the shock. just be carefull not to damage the brake line if you do.

It pays to just take the calipar off if your going to do that, and tie it up out of the way.


yeah have soaked it in crc, and will attack with the wire brush again tomorrow to try get the grease off.
Do they have bolts on the top or r they like lugs?
Have you had any luck with heating with a propane/butane torch and undoing then?

went to ripco especially today to get a 14mm socket cos i think i dropped mine at pickapart. All they were 12 sided ones, at $10, so i got it but just made it worse i reckon.

Anyone know where a good place that sells individual sockets is? I need a 6 face 1/2" drive 14mm
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Postby Zak » Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:04 pm

Parts master is the only place I can think of that might be open tomorrow that sell them, maybe repco, dunno never go there.

They are part of the lower ball joint, so you can replace it, but it's better to try not to break it than keep replacing stuff if you can
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Postby 79rolla » Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:29 pm

miter 10 sells socets seperatly (if theyr open)
if its screwd you could mash a smaller socket on (as above) or try a coal chisile and hammerto hit it around (if you get wat i mean)
Current:KE30 my baby,ke35 (now going to get the 2t treatment),isuzu spacecab ute
past: AE82 FXGT
(sorry about my sheit spelling)
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Postby xsspeed » Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:53 am

do you mean split the nut or force the nut to unthread?
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Postby Zak » Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:07 pm

Hit it round to try and undo it, only do it as a last resort though, try a 6 sided socket first if you can.
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Postby xsspeed » Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:10 pm

thanks dudes will give it a go.
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