Caldina Front Mount I/C

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Postby fivebob » Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:39 pm

barryogen wrote:[and if cruising(as in 100km/h in top gear), it tends to get below ambient due to being off boost and wind chill factor

Sniff, Sniff, yep smells like BS to me :roll:

You cannot cool below ambient temperature by flowing air over a radiator, no matter how much air you push through.

FYI Wind Chill Factor is a phenomenon that only affects warm blooded life forms, and is only an indication of apparent, not real, temperature i.e. it feels colder than it actually is.
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Postby bbq1988 » Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:17 pm

ah ok, it sounds better then having to cut holes everywhere :D
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Postby GTTpower » Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:36 pm

bbq1988 wrote:ah ok, it sounds better then having to cut holes everywhere :D


Hey, cutting holes makes the car go faster (speed holes) :lol:.
Haven't had any problems with my front mount apart from the length of piping needed.
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Postby Crampy » Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:52 pm

My vote is on a W2A setup.
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Postby bluemaumau » Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:55 pm

doesnt a FMIC cook alternaters reguarly on st215ws?
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Postby bluemaumau » Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:55 pm

doesnt a FMIC cook alternaters reguarly on st215ws?
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:42 pm

im guessing thats what the vent into the alternator is for - preventing such
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Postby barryogen » Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:36 am

fivebob wrote:
barryogen wrote:[and if cruising(as in 100km/h in top gear), it tends to get below ambient due to being off boost and wind chill factor

Sniff, Sniff, yep smells like BS to me :roll:

You cannot cool below ambient temperature by flowing air over a radiator, no matter how much air you push through.

FYI Wind Chill Factor is a phenomenon that only affects warm blooded life forms, and is only an indication of apparent, not real, temperature i.e. it feels colder than it actually is.


I was using the term "wind chill factor" to dumb it down a bit.

Wind will chill metal below ambient, hell, go for a short drive, and then feel the leading edge of your bonnet, it is always very cold to the touch.

When I measured it(yep, I'm geeky like that), the leading edge of my bonnet was 12C below ambient after 15 mins at 100km in 24C sunny weather on a drive from Dunedin to chch. I've been considering using the leading edge(first 10-20cm) of my bonnet as an intercooler, but I'm not too sure on the legalities(pretty sure it would be illegal) of putting fins along the front of a car(think like heatsink fins).
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Postby fivebob » Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:07 am

barryogen wrote:I was using the term "wind chill factor" to dumb it down a bit.


So what is the new phenomenon actually called then? I'd like to look it up and test it's validity.

Wind will chill metal below ambient, hell, go for a short drive, and then feel the leading edge of your bonnet, it is always very cold to the touch.

When I measured it(yep, I'm geeky like that), the leading edge of my bonnet was 12C below ambient after 15 mins at 100km in 24C sunny weather on a drive from Dunedin to chch. I've been considering using the leading edge(first 10-20cm) of my bonnet as an intercooler, but I'm not too sure on the legalities(pretty sure it would be illegal) of putting fins along the front of a car(think like heatsink fins).


I repeat You cannot cool below ambient temperature by flowing air over a radiator, no matter how much air you push through. It's simply not possible according to the laws of thermodynamics.

Consider a closed system, like a recirculating wind tunnel with air flowing over a radiator. In order to cool the metal below ambient you have to remove energy from it and transfer it to the air flowing over it. If that is possible then why does it occur that way around, i.e. why doesn't the metal cool the air?

Anyway if it were possible it would equally apply to A2A I/C's so no advantage would accrue to W2A I/Cs in this respect.
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Postby barryogen » Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:18 am

fivebob wrote:Anyway if it were possible it would equally apply to A2A I/C's so no advantage would accrue to W2A I/Cs in this respect.


not quite... w2a can act more as a heat soak device than an a2a because of the mass involved.. well, unless you have an enormous a2a IC
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Postby fivebob » Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:26 am

barryogen wrote:
fivebob wrote:Anyway if it were possible it would equally apply to A2A I/C's so no advantage would accrue to W2A I/Cs in this respect.


not quite... w2a can act more as a heat soak device than an a2a because of the mass involved.. well, unless you have an enormous a2a IC


But as it isn't possible anyway it doesn't matter. :wink:

BTW that extra mass is a double edged sword, and is the reason why W2A I/Cs are not used in most racing applications. The cooling medium heats up to the point that it's actually warming the charge air, not cooling it. Not that it would have any effect in a street driven, or drag racing application, but it is something to consider.

As for the mass of the A2A, you only need sufficient to cope with the maximum period of on boost time, end tanks act as quite a good heatsink in this respect.

BTW you do know that an A2A is more efficient at charge cooling than a W2A, don't you ;)
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Postby barryogen » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:09 am

fivebob wrote:BTW you do know that an A2A is more efficient at charge cooling than a W2A, don't you ;)


aside from the downside of having a larger area to pressurise, yes.

personally I'd always much rather have w2a and a very short path from boost provider to throttle body... although that in itself has downsides, but ones I'm willing to put up with.
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Postby gleem » Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:52 pm

i've just brought some 3" inter cooler piping bends for mine, i have a t3/t4 turbo will this be too laggy or should it be sweet?
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Postby barryogen » Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:23 am

3" piping for an intercooler is huge, I seem to recall reading something along the lines of 2" will support 500HP, how high is your goal?

2" 20.25 square cm
3" 45.58 square cm

As for Turbo, I don't know what a T3/T4 is... so someone else will have to answer that.
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:45 am

gleem wrote:i've just brought some 3" inter cooler piping bends for mine, i have a t3/t4 turbo will this be too laggy or should it be sweet?

read my my previous posts, 2-2.5" max
3" is stupid tardme bling bling go slow super lag material
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Postby snwtoy » Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:18 pm

fivebob wrote:I repeat You cannot cool below ambient temperature by flowing air over a radiator, no matter how much air you push through. It's simply not possible according to the laws of thermodynamics.


Excuse me for being slightly drunk, but is humidity considered in this? What about a water spray for an A/A I/C? Doesn't evaporating water help cool below ambient?, or am I imagining things?
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Postby Burning Angel » Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:39 pm

snwtoy wrote:
fivebob wrote:I repeat You cannot cool below ambient temperature by flowing air over a radiator, no matter how much air you push through. It's simply not possible according to the laws of thermodynamics.


Excuse me for being slightly drunk, but is humidity considered in this? What about a water spray for an A/A I/C? Doesn't evaporating water help cool below ambient?, or am I imagining things?


That would be because the water itself is absorbing thermal energy and it has a different capacity to store energy than air(cant think of technical word for it). but if the water was at ambient then i don't think it can cool below ambient either(i may be wrong but it makes sense)
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Postby postfach » Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:49 pm

Santa'sBoostinSleigh wrote:3" is stupid tardme bling bling go slow super lag material


Says who? Obviously bigger piping produces more lag, but the difference isn't as big as you're making it out to be. For example: on my car, running a stock 1JZ-GTE, 13.5ish psi boost, I'm using 3" intercooler piping, and the difference in RPM between when I got full boost with factory piping and cooler and now wouldn't be more than 250rpm, and the intercooler I have now isn't exactly small.

I gained almost 40rwkw from doing my FMIC, and for an unnoticeable 250rpm increase in "lag" (I hardly call full boost by 3000 lag), yeah, I'm prepared to make that sacrifice.
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Postby Prommy » Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:55 pm

Hi new to this..

What are the gains on the FMIC?
Do you HAVE to relocate the battery into the boot??
I don't see too many Cali's where i am so am unsure of how to set up. Have mates that have done subies pretty well.

And does anyone know where i can get after market Intake pipe from the pod to the turbo?

Thanks for any help
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Postby Caldina3SGTE » Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:43 pm

Hey dude i live in hamilton
i just got my intake pipe done at sinco customs cost me 100 bucks and IC piping i done my self, Gains of fmic is colder air and looks mean, i have found that i haven't got that much lag from my set up and yea i have moved my battery to the boot not that hard to do

i'll get photos up for you if u wanna see how i ran my piping
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